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Description

The area between The Executioner and The Bells of Rhymney

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: As for Joseph. Diagonally right to tree?

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

Great commiting climbing on quality rock.

Start: As for Joseph, climb the original first pitch, instead of going left following crack line, head straight middle of the 'pillar'. Find only gear. Then head left onto arete and up until on top of pillar. Rap off 'Vinyl Idl' Bolts.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

Start: 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

  1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

  2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964

The slab 2m left of Joseph. Up past 3 carrots to 2 ring bolts as for Joseph . Small cams in breaks. Head right to the crack at the intermediate ledge.

There is a much harder variant that heads left from the ledge up past two old rusty carrots.

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

Start rom DBB above the top of Cart Wheeling. Follow left arete up past 5 bolts and a ring to DBB on top.

FA: M Law, 1978

Start 4m left of Renegade.

FA: T.Sorenson & M.Law, 1979

FA: W.Payton, 1987

Probably not worth doing, but it does sound like an adventure.

Start: 4m left of J.Scramble to wide scrubby crack.

  1. 21m (14) The flake. Looks like it would be much better after some gardening.

  2. 28m (14) L and up. Right to ledge. Take care!

FA: J.Ewbank & E.Saxby, 1964

A few moves up Eternity, then right and up long face. Old bolts that seem ok, but the high crux is a series of chipped pockets

Start: As for Eternity.

FA: M.Law & M.Stacey, 1987

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not 'Australia'. 'Fantastic' climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast straight up the crack, jamming through a low crux. Follow the crack left to a rest, then back right to an awkward finish. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

FA: J Moore (Pitch 2: J Ewbank 1967 & FFA: M Law 1978)

Start: 6m left of Eternity.

FA: Unknown, 2000

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth!

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965

Start: 4m left of Pharoah.

Arete to ringbolt, right at tree level to Pharoah, and up. Lower off chains at top of P, 60m rope reaches ground.

FA: J.Worrall & R.Templeton, 1966

Rebolted Oct 2010, and loweroff added to eliminate the runout doddle finish (it's a 30m pitch if you continue past the new anchors to the top).

Start: As for SSCC1.

A slippery idea for a climb. As for SSCC1, but continue up the arete, onto easy ground to top of block, then arete behind.

FA: M Law & G Bradbury

Start: Corner 2m left of SSCC1.

Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Direct line above 1st half of Psychopath

Start: As for Psychopath

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

Start: As for P.

  1. 18m (-) As for P. to traverse. Left to arete and cave.

  2. 18m (15) Overhang on right. Up.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall (DS.M.Law), 1966

Start up Neurotic Direct Start and follow the line of rings. Reachy. A medium cam is useful between the first and second bolts.

FA: V. Peterson, 2006

Start: Corner 4m left of N.

Undercut, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires).Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay.

FA: J Ewbank & K Carter

Start: As for the 'Phantom' 4m, left then up to the end of the traverse.

FA: J.Smoothy & S.Moon, 1985

Start: 0.5m left of P.

  1. 18m (16) Diagonally left and over roof.Right to arete and up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) As for P.

FA: G.Weigand & R.Thompson, 1980

Start: 4m left of ST. On the right wall of 'The Animal' gully.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Retrobolted by the FA in Oct 2010 to make it a "classic sport route".

Start: Traverse out of the gully right (as for 'The Banshee') then up arete, lower-offs around on left

FA: M.Law & Lyle Closs, 1979

Start: As for 'The Banshee'.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1985

Chimney system just right of Messiah's Exit. Enjoyable climbing that is mostly well protected (particularly if you sling the tree... twice). A cool outing for a hot summer day.

FA: Ewbank, Worrall, Quinlan, Carter & Smith, 1965

Starts on the left wall about 10m up the first pitch of The Animal. Tricky crack and roof.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1965

It is serious if done the original way. But if you skip the boulder problem start and finish up The Messiah's Exit, it is a well protected classic.

Start: 1m left of The Animal.

FA: J Ewbank & K Carter

Lower offs added 26/5/2012

Start: Roof capped corner 2.5m left of 'Judas'.

  1. 15m (-) Corner to roof. Left (crawl) to nose and ledge.

  2. 24m (14) Wall on right.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Davis, 1965

Bad fixed pro!

Start: 1m left of M.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1984

Start: Jagged crack left of Mortuary.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Davis, 1965

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery

Start: Short steep corner above 'Avago'.

FA: M.Law & C.Reece, 1977

Start: Corner 4m left of A.

  1. 24m (14 M1) To roof, aid arounf lip and up.

  2. 18m (- M3) Aid, then free up wall. Keep right. Poor Rock!

FA: B.Osbourne & R.Reynolds, 1967

Start: 5m left again.

  1. 12m (21) Corner,left to arete. Mantle. 'Steep' wall to ledge.

  2. 28m (-) Up to the right.

FFA: M & Law

FA: (Osbourne & Reynolds), 1967

Activity

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