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Description

This would have to be the most popular area at Mt Piddington and covers climbs between Tombstone Wall and Skypilot.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Descent notes

There is an abseil anchor at the top of Angular Crack.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up past difficult mantle, right up to break. Right to edge of arete and up to top. Belay 5m up from top-out on stainless carrots and walk off left. Re-bolted with stainless glue in carrots Dec 15

Direct start is 24.

Start: Thin crack 6m left of 'The Bells of Rhymney',

FA: J Ewbank & J Davis

Start: As for TW to break. Up staying left of the arete.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1988

Start: As for TW. Then up and left.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Weigand, 1981

Start: 2m left of TW.

Start: Block and corner 3m left of TW.

FA: B Ryan, E Saxby & G Boyd

Start: 3m left of AC. Rebolted 26/5/2012, 3 bolt brackets if finishing up 'On Edge'

FFA: H.Barber

FA: B.Osbourne, 1967

Climbs the crack then the top head wall above. 6 bolt brackets for the climb and 2 for the anchor. Rebolted 26/5/2012.

Start: Above AC.

FA: S.Moon, 1984

Start: 3m left of HB.

FA: G.Weigand, 1985

Start: Stunning technical arete 2m left of GW. Bolts are spaced and can be supplemented with trad gear (occasionally)

FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1977

Start: 2m left of On Edge.

FA: T. Atroshenko, 2002

Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge.

Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

  1. 15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)

  2. 15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay

  3. 23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added Dec 15.

FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964

Not good.

Start: At chain on Faith.

FA: M.Scheel, 1985

Start: The corner crack left of Flake Crack.

  1. 15m Up corner to chains

  2. 15m Up corner and gully

  3. 22m Walk left, up into chimney

FA: E.Saxby, B.Ryan & G.Boyd, 1964

Starts as for 'Faith' P2, go to second bolt, then step down and traverse left until half way across the wall. Up flakes.

FA: G.Bradbury & S.Moon, 1985

The arete to the left. Minimal gear.

FA: J.Worrall & F.Hodges, 1966

Start: Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

FA: E.Saxby, B.Ryan & G.Boyd, 1966

Start: 2m left of Hope.

Slab climbing up orange face between Hope and Charity. Step right and finish on Hope when it gets hard. Direct finish is much harder.

FA: J.Worrall & F.Hodges, 1966

Start: 2m left of 'Sincerity'. The wide crack in the corner - take big cams. Somewhat sketchy traverse right at the top to anchor on Faith to lower off.

FA: E.Saxby, B.Ryan & G.Boyd, 1964

Start: From belay 1 of 'Charity'.

  1. 17m (23) Traverse left. up , around arete and up to ledge.

  2. 19m (-)

FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1979

Traverse right out of cave, to flake, ledge.

Start: From TOtG belay 1.

FA: W.Baird & G.Bradbury, 1979

As for Charity tor 10m, left to flake, left to cave.

FFA: K.Carrigan

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1966

Pumpy. Up Charity to obvious traverse line. Hand traverse left past a bolt about half way, to bolt on wall. Up to cave and and lower offs or head on up past two more pitches.

Most people do the Direct Start to join the traverse and bolt at the half way point.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Start: Left of 'Charity'.

FA: M.Baker, 1991

Start (marked below fixed hanger). Stick clip fixed hanger then thin balancy moves up and slight left to hand traverse ledge. Hand traverse left past bolts and up to medium cam placements on arete, then easily up and right past another cam to cave and rap chain.

Start: Undercut arete 4m left of Charity. (Marked TGSDS). Stick clip.

FA: S.Moon, 1985

You can rap off after pitch 1 (traverse 8m L to tree) for an awesome 1 pitch outing.

Start: 8m left of RC.

  1. 21m (19) A brilliant pitch. Corner, through roof and up to tree/ledge.

  2. 9m (-) Traverse right to blocks.

  3. 18m (-) Wall.

  4. 21m (19) Up the weakness to ledge. Left and up.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Start: 3m left of Forward. 3Pitches.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1967

3 pitches. Finish up Prologue.

Start: Bulging diagonal 3m left of Preface.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Start: As for Introduction then left across wall and up. One wire at the start then all carrots.

FA: G.Robbins, 1980

Start: 3m left of I. 3 pitches. Corner. Thin cracks on left arete of I. 'Gully'.

FA: M.Law & G.Bradbury, 1979

Start: 1m left of E.

  1. 18m (11) Crack to ledge.

  2. 21m (11) Corner to cave, left up to big cave. Traverse right and up to ledge.

  3. 21m (11) Left along ledge, up small black wall into gully.

  4. 23m (11) Up.

FA: J.Ewbank, A.Quinlan & R.Smith, 1965

Start: Thin corner 2m left of Prologue.

  1. 8m (15) Up to tree

  2. 21m (15) Left side of groove to bush.

  3. 18m (15) Left and up to bollard.

  4. 13m (-) Up.

FA: J.Davis & Witham, 1965

Start: 2m left of A.

  1. 15m (18) Over bulge to tree?

  2. 20m (18) Follow 'Ballrace' to thread (?), over roof to ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Up.

FA: M.Law, J.Smoothy & T.Bernutt, 1978

3 pitches.

Start: Crack 1m left of Kim.

FA: J.Davis & D.Witham, 1965

Start: 1m left of B. 'Arete' and wall.

FA: M.law & K.Carrigan, 1977

Start: 'Arete' 8m left again.

  1. 15m (23) Crack to arete.

  2. 20m (16) Right, over bulge and up to ledge.

  3. 25m (-) Crack, slab to the left. Corner.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Weigand, 1981

The climb was cleaned up considerably before the fist absent, and still climbs better then it looks. There are a few unnecessary bolts that were decommissioned in the '60's. "It may be done safely on purely jamb protection" J Ewbank 1967 guidebook.

Start: The black V-chimney 1.5m left of AA.

  1. 26m (16) Chimney.

  2. 21m (16) Up to corner.

  3. 20m (16) Up the corner.

FA: L.Muzzati, G.Davies & G. Owens, 1966

Start: 7m left of OU.

FA: P.Webber, 1981

Aid at M3.

Start: 5m left of M.

  1. 15m (-) Aid roof, up the scrubby wall to ledge.

  2. 15m (12) Up right through jungle to join OU.

FA: G.Herbert & G.Prime, 1978

Start: Below roofs 4m left of AGDftI. 'Small' corner.

FA: M.Law & G.Harrison, 1979

Again a tricky and strenuous first section.

Start: A dirty jagged crack 20m left of Orang Utang, marked.

  1. 25m (13) Up 10m then fall onto thick scrub on ledge. Continue more easily to tree anchor on next ledge.

  2. 30m (15) Up easily to top. Tree anchor.

Could probably also be done as one long pitch.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Left hand varient to 'Brumby'.

Start: As for B.

  1. 38m (18) Up over fern? To shelf, left to mantle. Wall right of tree to block.

  2. 22m (15) Left to bollard, up wall.

FA: J.Friend & R.Templeton, 1973

A hard first pitch, strenuous and tricky. Starts at a square groove, marked.

P1. Up groove, (missing) peg runner, move out at top to left, and up to tree (and block) anchor.

P2. Up easy slab to top.

Can also be done as one long pitch.

FA: J Ewbank. & J Worral, 1967

Start: Blockt arete about 11m left of Mustang.

FA: K.Carrigan & G.Bradbury.A.Penney, 1978

Activity

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