Routes in Pindari

Short wall with carrots in the descent gully

Middle of the short black wall in the gully.

Scooped arete down from E.

The left hand line of rings through steepness from the belay ledge of TSL. Wandery. Good. Belay as for TSL off rings.

1. 15m (19) Lovely techy slab (with infamous reachy move) to comfy belay ledge. Stays damp after any rain.

2. 28m (20) Slabby arête then a runout into cave, lean carefully left out of cave for 3rd RB. Now fight the pump up the long sustained overhung headwall right to the last move. DRBB 2m back over the top.

Rightmost line of rings off the belay of TSL. Tree belay on top.

1. 12m (19) First pitch is described as not great and is quite vegetated at time of writing.

2. 30m (23) Second pitch is good (all rings now), and may be combined with the other 3 upper pitches previously described; in which case, traverse in right from the belay of TSL (a bolt would be handy, or swing across on your rap rope) and belay on the ledge below the climb (currently off an ancient FH, and the RB above it). Tree belay on top (same top-out as Much of a Muchness).

Start: Block in chimney 6m right of House of Meat.

1. 10m (21) Left onto wall with bolt, up to ledge passing two more bolts. Double bolt and cam belay.

2. 35m (22) Slab past bolts. Follow left arete to cave. Headwall, passing more bolts, to LHS of block. The variant finish to this pitch goes at grade 21. Step right at fourth bolt of P2, then follow the RH line of bolts to the hand/finger crack.

You may wish you were a magician at some point on this one.

Start: Chimney crack

1. 9m Up recessed ledge to thread belay.

2. 18m Up to ledge on left then ramp to small stance in recess above tree.

3. 18m (crux) Up inside of bottomless chimney 5m to ancient piton in bolt hole (!?) then back down and up outside of the now wonderfully protected hard bit.

Start: 9m right in chimney.

1. 15m (8) Wide easy chimney to small ledge and nut & thread belay deep inside cave.

2. 30m (12) Squeeze chimney "quite safe once it has been started" then easier chimney to sandy cave.

Start: Flared crack 4m right of Rimensky, marked.

1. 15m (-) Groove to tree? and piton.

2. 30m (18) Crack and chimney.

Start: Thin crack 4m right again, marked.

1. 21m (19) Crack then right to next crack to below the block. Turn arete and head left to tree.

2. 30m (18) Finish as for Lord Jim.

Two right staggered finger cracks, cracks run out at about 21 metres and you transition to an adjacent climb. [Route will be merged]

Start: As for TWL until it veers left. Up right side of arete and up.

Start: 4m right of TWL.

1. 27m (19) Up onto pedestal and up broken crack to main wide corner crack. A couple of BD#4's or similar Corner and crack to alcove below roof. Belay on wires or medium cams.

2. 27m (19) Up and R to lip, up crack then R and up past trees to ledge. Belay off small/medium cams or wires.

3. 6m (18) Undercut crack, probably dirty. Place a high wire, pull up into line, get a finger lock and top out.

Rings to the right of the arete, R of Berserker.

Start: 40m right of Beserker, beneath very broken roof and chimney, marked.

1. 12m (-) Crack to undercut chimney, corner. Right to anchor.

2. 15m (11) Chimney to roof, then short wall on right to tree.

3. 30m (11) Either gully and up wall with "wet moss and no holds", or easier crack on left wall.

Start: 20m right again.

1. 25m (18) Corner to pedestal.

2. 25m (20) Right to arete, down 3m then right into corner. Traverse under roof to next corner, then over roof to stance.

3. 30m (18) Crack to roof, right to arete, traverse to corner, up large flake to belay.

4. 20m (20) Right side of flake then up to tree?

Start: 5m right of M. Below obvious roof crack, marked.

The start of the first pitch was originally aided on the FA. The 1974 description read: "Flick nut 5m up into crack, climb rope then free to ledge".

But, the entire route has since been free climbed from the ground up.

Route Description:

1. 25m (18) Delicately stem up and under the overhang, trending right to just below the corner crack. Reach up into the hand crack (maybe grade 19 move?), pull the lip, and climb the corner to a ledge belay.

2. 20m (17) Battle with ferns up into the double corner to below roofs. Then, trend left over roof to Mirage belay 2.

Start: 125m right of LLL. Corner with parallel crack 1m right.

1. 22m (16) Corner (or crack?) to ledge and tree anchor.

2. 33m (16) Awkward strenous bulging chimney to corner, then "classical" chimney.

Variant start to Shugar.

Start: Broken crack on face 9m right of N.

1. Up crack to Shugar belay 1.

Start: Curving crack 5m right of "Xenon's Son".

1. 30m (-) Gradually widening crack to block, arete, slab to roof. Delicately traverse right to top of chimney.

2. 15m (18) Left corner.

Start: 5m right again.

1. 24m (-) Bridge to attain chimney.

2. 16m (18) Right corner.

Not sure of the grade on this.

Start: 'Arete' right of GM.

63m right of GM.

Start: Wide crack just left of corner.

Start: Corner 8m right of GC.

Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30m left of Voyage for Two.

1. 30m (23) Right and then left side of arete. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the runout.

2. 20m (24) Arete and flake, right to small roof, up then back to the arete and up.

Variation of JoJ second pitch.

Start: Straight up the arete to anchors.

Start: 40m right of B.

1. 20m (18) Undercut ferny crack to short crack on left.

2. 20m (-) Right across wall to 'Cripple Corner' anchor 1.

3. 20m (-) Finish as for CC.

Start: Thin corner crack 13m right of GY. Can be done in one pitch.

1. 20m (18) Short corner right then over to belay.

2. 20m (-) Right crack leading left, then up.

Start: 20m right of CC.

1. 35m (22) Finger crack to ledge. Then hand crack to stumps.

2. 40m (-) Past scrub to roof, carefully left to corner, further to end of roof. Up.

Needs a rebolt!

Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.

1. 27m (26) Up right to arete, then left. Up wall and groove.

2. 23m (22) Groove, right around bulge, up wall and corner as for VfT.

3 pitches rebolted 2004

Start: 'Arete' just right of Pussy Strut. Start in thin crack right side of the arete. Ring bolts.

Pitch Descriptions:

1. 15m (24) Climb the face around the crack.

2. 15m (25) Up arete.

3. 25m (23) Delicate moves up the slab to top.

Start: 6m right of Voyage for Two.

1. 40m (22) Corner to ledge on right. Left to narrowing crack. Left to ledge.

2. 20m (22) Corner to ledge, crack through overhang. Up.

Start: 22m right of BA.Corner.

1. 30m (-) Ledge, wide crack to ferns (?), right and up to ledge.

2. 20m (21) 'Layback' and wall.

Start: 100m right of DS.

1. 30m (16) Roof capped corner to arete. Left to mantle, up to traverse. Right and up to tree?

2. 25m (11) Pinacle and wall, crack.