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Description:

A bit run out and scary on the top wall. Start from the massive initials and up to crazy biner-breaking carrot on the first move (sling it with a skinny runner). Left along ledge and up to bolt in scoop. Up easier ground past good runners to big ledge. Poor sling then big cams on lip. Pull lip, ok sling runners, then run out up delicate wall to bolt well up to the left (level with the second fixed hanger on Merlot Madness to the left). Up another 5m then easiest to move left to Merlot madness rings,

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Slape Area approx:
Lat/Long: -33.605625,150.252599

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
12 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
12 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
12 Blue Mountains Climbing

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 38%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

nice runout roof

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