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Description:© (secretary)

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not 'Australia'. 'Fantastic' climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast straight up the crack, jamming through a low crux. Follow the crack left to a rest, then back right to an awkward finish. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: J Moore (Pitch 2: J Ewbank 1967 & FFA: M Law 1978)


Located in Mount Piddington approx:
Long/Lat: 150.255101,-33.604702

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade
18 *** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
18 *** Nathan Poole
18 *** Blue Mountains Climbing
19 OZ Rock
19 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
20 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
23 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 91%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sweat solid crux sustained tough pumped strenuous difficult hard fun nice fantastic fabulous good amazing great classic superb awesome stoked incredible super beautiful brilliant enjoyable scary fall epic dodgy hands layback balancy flake easy bad jamming cruisy crack

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