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Description:© (mjw)

Has a 3rd pitch but usually only the flake and the crack are done.

Start: 4m left of OE. Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge, then right and up obvious crack through rooflet to loweroffs or onto ledge and carrot belay. Descend via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added Dec 15.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Route History:

  • First Ascent: J Ewbank & E Saxby


Located in Flake Crack Area approx:
Long/Lat: 150.253168,-33.604204

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 OZ Rock
17 ** ** ACA Route Register
17 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
17 *** Blue Mountains Climbing
17 *** Nathan Poole
17 *** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
17 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 85%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained desperate tough pumped tired powerful hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing classy satisfying great lovely classic superb awesome super beautiful brilliant exciting scary intimidating fall tricky ground fall committing chimney rest polished interesting roof layback short flake face jamming offwidth crack feet easy mantle fist traverse lip

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Flake Crack (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.