- Height: 15m, 15m, 23m (Total: 53m)
- Pitches: 3
- Ascents: 743
- Description:© (mjw)
Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge.
Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.
15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)
15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay
23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.
Lower-offs and new belay carrots added Dec 15.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
First Ascent: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964
Located in Flake Crack Area approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|17||Community registered grade|
|17 **||★★ ACA Route Register|
|17||★★★ Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains|
|17||★★★ Blue Mountains Climbing|
|17||★★★ RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains|
|17||★★★ Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas|
Overall quality score: 85%
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