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Description

Start: Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

© (mjw)

Ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Route history

1966

First Ascent: E.Saxby, B.Ryan & G.Boyd, 1966

Location

Lat/Long: -33.60420, 150.25317

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

15 Community registered grade
14 ACA Route Register
14 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
14 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
14 Blue Mountains Climbing
14 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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A
M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 57% from 209 ratings

Tick types

Solo
Onsight
Flash
Red point
Pink point
Hang dog

Comment keywords

challenging crux tough hard pleasant fun cool nice good sweet satisfying great lovely exciting enjoyable classic awesome tricky committing slippery feet rest interesting fingers layback short flake easy vertical jamming smooth jugs slabby crack

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