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Description:© (mjw)

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best.

Start: 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab.

Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

  1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

  2. Up slab, veering left and up.

Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: K.Westren & M. Hailstone, 1964

Location:  

Located in Hocus Pocus Area approx:
Long/Lat: 150.253682,-33.601834

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

8 Community registered grade
10 *** Blue Mountains Climbing
10 *** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
11 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
8 * Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
8 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

desperate hard good sweet super great fun classic nice slippery easy interesting epic traverse slabby

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