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Description:© (mjw)

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out, it's not too hard to climb it with packs on then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

  1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

  2. Up slab, veering left and up. Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes, or even on a single rope if you think about which bolts to skip and which to extend.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: K.Westren & M. Hailstone, 1964


Located in Hocus Pocus Area approx:
Lat/Long: -33.602600,150.253463

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

8 Community registered grade
10 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
10 Blue Mountains Climbing
11 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
8 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
8 ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 61%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux desperate tough hard pleasant super beautiful fun nice perfect good sweet great classic runout tricky slippery easy interesting epic traverse slabby

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Hocus Pocus (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.