Section navigation

Description:© (mjw)

There's 1 bolt at the first belay and 4 on the 2nd pitch - so take brackets if you don't know how to use cams.

Start: Start approx 28m left of 'Quits' beneath major right-angled corner.

  1. 20m (15) Corner to belay on slab beneath main corner.

  2. 31m (20) Stunning orange corner then left around roof. Chossy easy corner above.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: J.Friend

  • First Ascent: (J.Ewbank & A.Campbell), 1965

Location:  

Located in Mount Piddington approx:
Long/Lat: 150.255101,-33.604702

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 Principal
20 ** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
20 ** Blue Mountains Climbing
20 *** *** ACA Route Register
20 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
20 *** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 88%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

perfect incredible nice awesome steep hands layback crack

Learn about creating circuits.