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Description:© (mjw)

Start: Roofs 10 m before the waterfall. Through low roof with piton and gear to ledge. Up and left into the line and up to chimney then through and right to the top

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: One of the Cosseys

    I think they thought I had done it . . .

  • First Ascent: J.Ewbank & B.Allen, 1969

  • First Ascent: Macciza. free with rests., 2006

    Freed all aids on lower pitch and moves on 2nd pitch

Location:  

Located in Mount Piddington approx:
Long/Lat: 150.255101,-33.604702

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
** Macciza a.k.a. Macca
17M5 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
17 M5 ACA Route Register
17M5 Blue Mountains Climbing
17M5 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
23 Macciza a.k.a. Macca

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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