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Description

Once the focus of Blueys climbing, it's now seen a fair bit of regeneration. Mt Piddington is our premier trad climbing area. Lots of variety from old school mixed climbing through to state of the art sport climbing and even bouldering. Mt York has free camping and is the 'end' of the Blue Mountains - it's also the Blueys instructional area. Mt Vic has a great pub, an old art deco movie theatre, a museum and many fine bushwalks for the non climbers. It's 6km from Blackheath.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
 Trad,  Sport and other styles
274
8,845
39m
23
51
3,329
20m
1
18
92
32m
1
40
647
39m
2
XXXX / 4X Crag
-
0
0
Zig Zag Crag
121
2,089
27m
5
16
173
14m
17
151
29m
2
 Sport,  Unknown and other styles
85
355
22m
 Trad,  Sport and other styles
286
8,871
23m
14
New York Crag
 Sport,  Trad and other styles
85
2,228
13m
3
64
752
10m
17
119
6,417
20m
4
Zap Crag Crag
38
1,212
20m
1
32
144
17m
1
Hartley Crag
 Unknown,  Trad and other styles
242
766
27m
1
23
163
22m
7
 Trad,  Unknown and other styles
77
229
42m
4
17
101
15m
20
81
23m
7

Activity

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