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Description

Cold and damp in winter, a bit hot on summer mornings. A spare rope to leave for rap is handy. Scattered walls dating from the 80s. None of it has seen much action recently.

Routes listed R to L

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Drive to the end of ‘Victoria Falls’ Rd, park car in tourist carpark. Go along the track towards the lookout for 100m, thenb turn R onto faint track which leads down to a gully which ends on the crag’s halfway ledge. Climbs are grouped as Left & Right side facing the cliff

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Bogan Lay Sector
2
3
11m
2
Right Side Sector
15
5
27m

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
3
23 * Lonely Pussy Unknown 30m
4
18 Andys Can't Fly Unknown 30m

100m L of the gully. Is initialled, diagonal crack to ledge. Harder to protect than it looks.

5
21 ** Spasmo's on Acid Unknown 30m
7
22 Spasmo's on Acid Direct Unknown 30m
9
21 Optimum Beer Level Unknown 30m
10
20 * Baldness for Beginners Unknown 30m

I put up the climb and it is a grade 17 not a 20

FA: Paul Henson & Dick Baker, 1986

11
18 Coughing Up Blood Unknown 30m
12
18 ** Struggling Man Unknown 30m
13
18 All Models Are Orphans Unknown 30m
14
15
18 I Did It for Johnny Unknown 25m
16
15 Day of Rest Unknown 35m
17
17 Big Head Unknown 35m
18
17 The Bionic Knee Returns Unknown 30m
19
18 Tres Exotic Unknown 18m
20
22 Rapunzel Unknown 12m
21
19 No-eyed Deer Unknown 12m
22
21 All Models are Orphans Unknown 30m

Activity

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