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Description

Cold and damp in winter, a bit hot on summer mornings. A spare rope to leave for rap is handy. Scattered walls dating from the 80s. None of it has seen much action recently.

Routes listed R to L

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Drive to the end of ‘Victoria Falls’ Rd, park car in tourist carpark. Go along the track towards the lookout for 100m, thenb turn R onto faint track which leads down to a gully which ends on the crag’s halfway ledge. Climbs are grouped as Left & Right side facing the cliff

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Bogan Lay Sector
2
4
11m
2
Left Side Unknown
-
0
0
Lower Left Unknown
-
0
0
Right Side Sector
15
5
27m

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Carrot and fixed hanger below orange streaked arete corner

100m L of the gully. Is initialled, diagonal crack to ledge. Harder to protect than it looks. Presently vegetated in its entirety.

Starts between ACF and SOA , High stick clip then up and right under first bolt then up line of ubolts and excellent juggy rock to lower-off 3m right from SOA.

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: Evan Wells

Classic! Rebolted with RB's 2017. Bring a medium wire if you want to stitch the last few meters. High stickclip to reachy slabbing , through crux at bulge then easy into corner and DRB lower-off.

Carefully head left above SOA first bolt then up , long draw under rooflet then take your pick of the two neighbours. Rebolted 2017. Probably a better climb linking into OBL now but the name remains.

Rap off tree down from SOA. P1 Through roof, corner to cave P2 20 through roof on R, crack.

FA: R Baker, R.Young & S Young, 1988

5m left of SOA. Now with a direct start as flake on left has returned to nature. Rebolted 2017. Maybe the best route on the wall.

'I put up the climb and it is a grade 17 not a 20' Well , fantastic description. At a guess this starts up CUB and is the next line left of OBL , however there are a few bashies also leading left. If it werent so confusing it would be worthy of a rebolt.

FA: Paul Henson & Dick Baker, 1986

Hard Start marked CU. Up then left into ironstone wall to top??

Wild arete. Climb small tree to gain arete and first BR.

Furthest corner up stream on lower cliff. P1. Up into wide enjoyable crack on face , a #5 cam would be handy near top , then up flakey corner to standing belay ledge. Natural belay though anchor of sport route makes handy high runner. P2. Up cleaner crack in large slot, the opposite of exposure. Shimmy right when crack peters out to good horizontal + ubolt belay or extend gear and top out proper. P3. Short scramble right then up to med cam and tree belay.

FFA: Evan Wells & Jacindi Jackson

Line of U's to single U lower off. Left of NBT

Set by Evan Wells

FFA: Jacindi Jackson

Activity

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