A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Victoria Falls 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.293249, -33.574282

Description:© (nmonteith)

Scattered walls dating from the 80s. None of it has seen much action recently. Good afternoon crag.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Drive to the end of 'Victoria Falls' Rd, park car in tourist carpark, walk to lookout, jump fence on right then find gully which leads down to crag.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lonely Pussy 23Unknown 30m
2 Andys Can't Fly 18Unknown 30m
3 ** Spasmo's on Acid 21Unknown 30m
4 Spasmo's on Acid Variant 22Unknown 30m
5 Spasmo's on Acid Direct 22Unknown 30m
6 Flirting With Flamboyance 20Unknown 60m
7 Optimum Beer Level 21Unknown 30m
8 * Baldness for Beginners

I put up the climb and it is a grade 17 not a 20

FA: Paul Henson and Dick Baker, 1986

20Unknown 30m
9 Coughing Up Blood 18Unknown 30m
10 ** Struggling Man 18Unknown 30m
11 All Models Are Orphans 18Unknown 30m
12 Everything But the Gnome 14Unknown 20m
13 I Did It for Johnny 18Unknown 25m
14 Day of Rest 15Unknown 35m
15 Big Head 17Unknown 35m
16 The Bionic Knee Returns 17Unknown 30m
17 Tres Exotic 18Unknown 18m
18 Rapunzel 22Unknown 12m
19 No-eyed Deer 19Unknown 12m
20 Nachos 15Unknown 15m
21 Uncle Arthur's Nursery 16Unknown 30m
22 Baby's on Fire 20Unknown 15m
23 Baby on the Jukebox 16Unknown 15m
24 * Peace Frog 21Unknown 25m
25 War Crimes 20Unknown 20m
26 Off the Top 13Unknown 60m
27 What a Silly Place for a Ramp 19Unknown 30m
28 Back to the Future 19Unknown 25m
29 * Weird Scenes Inside the Goldmine 20Unknown 30m
30 * Spatial Commitment 18Unknown 35m
31 * Dick's in Desperation 19Unknown 30m
32 * Spaced Out 22Unknown 35m
33 Small Dead Fish in Tomato Sauce 14Unknown 20m
34 All Models are Orphans 21Unknown 30m Will Monks 15 years ago

bloody hard crux at 5m and runout headwall

35 Initial View 13Unknown 20m Will Monks 15 years ago

Surprisingly worthwhile

1.1. Bogan Lay 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bogan Lay

Reachy start off sidecling then up steep wall above with a slight right trend. Crank through small roof to finish.

22Sport 12m, 5
2 Closed Project

Left side of 'Bogan Lay' crag. Stick-clip first ring, grab big heuco and monkey up face above through rooflet.

Sport 10m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 Initial View Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
Off the Top Unknown 60m 1. Victoria Falls
14 Everything But the Gnome Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
Small Dead Fish in Tomato Sauce Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
15 Day of Rest Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
Nachos Unknown 15m 1. Victoria Falls
16 Baby on the Jukebox Unknown 15m 1. Victoria Falls
Uncle Arthur's Nursery Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
17 Big Head Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
The Bionic Knee Returns Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
18 All Models Are Orphans Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Andys Can't Fly Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Coughing Up Blood Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
I Did It for Johnny Unknown 25m 1. Victoria Falls
* Spatial Commitment Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
** Struggling Man Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Tres Exotic Unknown 18m 1. Victoria Falls
19 Back to the Future Unknown 25m 1. Victoria Falls
* Dick's in Desperation Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
No-eyed Deer Unknown 12m 1. Victoria Falls
What a Silly Place for a Ramp Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
20 Baby's on Fire Unknown 15m 1. Victoria Falls
* Baldness for Beginners Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Flirting With Flamboyance Unknown 60m 1. Victoria Falls
War Crimes Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
* Weird Scenes Inside the Goldmine Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
21 All Models are Orphans Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Optimum Beer Level Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
* Peace Frog Unknown 25m 1. Victoria Falls
** Spasmo's on Acid Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
22 Rapunzel Unknown 12m 1. Victoria Falls
* Spaced Out Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
Spasmo's on Acid Direct Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Spasmo's on Acid Variant Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Bogan Lay Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Bogan Lay
23 * Lonely Pussy Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
? Closed Project Sport 10m, 5 1.1. Bogan Lay