A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Victoria Falls 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.293249, -33.574282

Description:© (nmonteith)

Scattered walls dating from the 80s. None of it has seen much action recently. Good afternoon crag.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Drive to the end of 'Victoria Falls' Rd, park car in tourist carpark, walk to lookout, jump fence on right then find gully which leads down to crag.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lonely Pussy 23 Unknown 30m
2 Andys Can't Fly 18 Unknown 30m
3 ** Spasmo's on Acid 21 Unknown 30m
4 Spasmo's on Acid Variant 22 Unknown 30m
5 Spasmo's on Acid Direct 22 Unknown 30m
6 Flirting With Flamboyance 20 Unknown 60m
7 Optimum Beer Level 21 Unknown 30m
8 * Baldness for Beginners

I put up the climb and it is a grade 17 not a 20

FA: Paul Henson and Dick Baker, 1986

20 Unknown 30m
9 Coughing Up Blood 18 Unknown 30m
10 ** Struggling Man 18 Unknown 30m
11 All Models Are Orphans 18 Unknown 30m
12 Everything But the Gnome 14 Unknown 20m
13 I Did It for Johnny 18 Unknown 25m
14 Day of Rest 15 Unknown 35m
15 Big Head 17 Unknown 35m
16 The Bionic Knee Returns 17 Unknown 30m
17 Tres Exotic 18 Unknown 18m
18 Rapunzel 22 Unknown 12m
19 No-eyed Deer 19 Unknown 12m
20 Nachos 15 Unknown 15m
21 Uncle Arthur's Nursery 16 Unknown 30m
22 Baby's on Fire 20 Unknown 15m
23 Baby on the Jukebox 16 Unknown 15m
24 * Peace Frog 21 Unknown 25m
25 War Crimes 20 Unknown 20m
26 Off the Top 13 Unknown 60m
27 What a Silly Place for a Ramp 19 Unknown 30m
28 Back to the Future 19 Unknown 25m
29 * Weird Scenes Inside the Goldmine 20 Unknown 30m
30 * Spatial Commitment 18 Unknown 35m
31 * Dick's in Desperation 19 Unknown 30m
32 * Spaced Out 22 Unknown 35m
33 Small Dead Fish in Tomato Sauce 14 Unknown 20m
34 All Models are Orphans 21 Unknown 30m
35 Initial View 13 Unknown 20m

1.1. Bogan Lay 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.291852, -33.575576

Description:

One of the shortest approaches in the Blue Mountains, this small cave faces east, giving welcome shade in the afternoon. The views are spectacular.

Approach:

From the toilet at the carpark walk straight downhill (east) to the top of the cliff. Walk right for 50m and scramble down gully then walk left to steep orange mini crag. 5 minutes at most.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

History:

Discovered by Neil Monteith in 2009.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Closed Project

Closed project - stay off. Stick-clip first ring, grab big heuco and monkey up face above through rooflet.

Set by Neil Monteith

Sport Project 10m, 5
2 * Bogan Lay

Right side of crag. Reachy layback start then up steep wall above with a slight right trend. Crank through small roof to finish. Probably best to stickclip 2nd bolt unless you are strong.

FA: Neil Monteith,Lee Cujes, 2008

22 Sport 12m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 Initial View Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
Off the Top Unknown 60m 1. Victoria Falls
14 Everything But the Gnome Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
Small Dead Fish in Tomato Sauce Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
15 Day of Rest Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
Nachos Unknown 15m 1. Victoria Falls
16 Baby on the Jukebox Unknown 15m 1. Victoria Falls
Uncle Arthur's Nursery Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
17 Big Head Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
The Bionic Knee Returns Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
18 All Models Are Orphans Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Andys Can't Fly Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Coughing Up Blood Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
I Did It for Johnny Unknown 25m 1. Victoria Falls
* Spatial Commitment Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
** Struggling Man Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Tres Exotic Unknown 18m 1. Victoria Falls
19 Back to the Future Unknown 25m 1. Victoria Falls
* Dick's in Desperation Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
No-eyed Deer Unknown 12m 1. Victoria Falls
What a Silly Place for a Ramp Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
20 Baby's on Fire Unknown 15m 1. Victoria Falls
* Baldness for Beginners Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Flirting With Flamboyance Unknown 60m 1. Victoria Falls
War Crimes Unknown 20m 1. Victoria Falls
* Weird Scenes Inside the Goldmine Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
21 All Models are Orphans Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Optimum Beer Level Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
* Peace Frog Unknown 25m 1. Victoria Falls
** Spasmo's on Acid Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
22 Rapunzel Unknown 12m 1. Victoria Falls
* Spaced Out Unknown 35m 1. Victoria Falls
Spasmo's on Acid Direct Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
Spasmo's on Acid Variant Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
* Bogan Lay Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Bogan Lay
23 * Lonely Pussy Unknown 30m 1. Victoria Falls
? Closed Project Sport Project 10m, 5 1.1. Bogan Lay