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Routes described left to right, starting 10 left of the abseil in, about 20m right of CTW, facing in.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
23 *** Static Trad 40m

Sustained, varied and technical climb up the obvious closed corner with fixed hangers and the trad crack above.

FA: G. Bradbury & G. Short, 2007

15 Aretarama Sport 40m

Start at the closed seam of Static. Up and out on wall diagonally to arete. Up arete to ledge. Choice then to finish up the top crack of Static (18) with gear, 5.9+ (19) on bolts or Greased Lighning (13) on gear.

FA: G. Short & W. Williams, 2007

Project Sport

FA: G. Short

19 ** 5.9+ Sport 20m, 5

Right-hand line of white (!) bolts - carrots and fixed hangers - left of Greased Lightning. DBB below ledge. Walk or abseil off.

FA: W. Williams & G. Short

13 ** Greased Lightning Trad 15m

Starts at corner on right end of half-way ledge. (Just right of rap line). Crack/pillar to ledge. Take wires and small cams.

FA: G. Bradbury & G. Short, 2007

16 Retreat From The Wind Trad 40m 2

Start: Obvious crack/fault line between the rap and the waterfall.

  1. 15m (16) Up crack. Is now overgrown.

  2. 25m (16) Traverse right and up wall.

FA: W.Williams & J.Croker, 1988


Check out what is happening in Static Area.