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Routes described left to right, starting 10 left of the abseil in, about 20m right of CTW, facing in.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The line of rings 10m right (facing the cliff) of the ladder through a very steep cave.

FA: J.Clark & J.Kurko, 1995

Traverse the lip of the cave from right to left on FHs.

FA: G.Miller, 1993

Start as for Dance of the Nymph but climb straight up middle of grey wall.

Straight up on the right side of the buttress, 2m right of Dance of the Nymph.

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

Miniature route up short arete with premature lower-offs, 2m right of Sly Drool (left edge of good looking steeper buttress)

Crag classic up steep juggy line on FHs. Starts about 20m right of Sly Drool. Up and right through steepness and finishes up left side of overhung arete up high. Could do with a rebolt (and repositioning of last two bolts and anchor which destroys your rope)

FA: G.Miller, 1993

Start 2m left of 'Mechanical Advantage'. Up left to flake then through steepness to short corner/arete and up face to anchors

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2004

A fun little pump.

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

Right side of buttress, just left of overhung corner crack (has this been climbed??) Looks like it should be a dawdle but is a bit tricky.

FA: L & C.Hale, 1999

Half equipped steep arete just right Living in the Outside. Random carrots, rings and bolt scars. Has been a project for decades.

Set by Fred Yule

Walk right (facing out) from bottom of ladder, through some bushes to a short wall to the right of a scrubby corner. Up the right wall past 2 carrots and trad gear.

FA: J Croker & R Croker, 2007

Start: This route and Vibes start from the same belay on the ledge, right of where the guide topo shows (right of the bush). Up and left.

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: On the ledge from the shared belay, up and R. Exposed!

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: Belay from the Nucklunder/ Vibes belay and walk right along ledge to belay near the end. Bring second across and get exposed!

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: Short arete to the right.

Walk over the hill and back down in gulley, or walk in from XXXX bouldering. Hard start and hard finish.

FA: Damo Taylor, 2006


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