A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Static Area 6 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.248558, -33.593441


Routes described left to right, starting 10 left of the abseil in, about 20m right of CTW, facing in.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Static

Sustained, varied and technical climb up the obvious closed corner with fixed hangers and the trad crack above.

FA: G. Bradbury, G. Short, 2007

23 Trad 40m
2 Aretarama

Start at the closed seam of Static. Up and out on wall diagonally to arete. Up arete to ledge. Choice then to finish up the top crack of Static (18) with gear, 5.9+ (19) on bolts or Greased Lighning (13) on gear.

FA: G. Short, W. Williams, 2007

15 Sport 40m
3 Project

FA: G. Short

4 ** 5.9+

Right-hand line of white (!) bolts - carrots and fixed hangers - left of Greased Lightning. DBB below ledge. Walk or abseil off.

FA: W. Williams, G. Short

19 Sport 20m, 5
5 ** Greased Lightning

Starts at corner on right end of half-way ledge. (Just right of rap line). Crack/pillar to ledge. Take wires and small cams.

FA: G. Bradbury, G. Short, 2007

13 Trad 15m
6 Retreat From The Wind

Start: Obvious crack/fault line between the rap and the waterfall.

  1. 15m (16) Up crack. Is now overgrown.

  2. 25m (16) Traverse right and up wall.

FA: W.Williams,J.Croker, 1988

16 Trad 40m 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 ** Greased Lightning Trad 15m
15 Aretarama Sport 40m
16 Retreat From The Wind Trad 40m 2
19 ** 5.9+ Sport 20m, 5
23 *** Static Trad 40m
? Project Sport