A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Soft Parade 58 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.224885, -33.556037

Unique Features And Strengths:

A micro crag developed as a training area

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:

Park at the Barden's Lookout carpark. Cross the road and walk back towards New York for 10 m or so then head into the bush and head diagonally rightwards following the faint trail and cairns. The final gully is between the Middle and Right Hand End. Turn left for the Right Hand End. Track ends at coordinates S33d33.393' E150d13.580' or GR425836

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

1.1. The Right Hand End 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Micro sports routes on slabs and features. A great area for beginner leaders and kids. The crag is very new so many of the climbs are still a bit sandy. A bit more traffic will fix this.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flyby

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

14Sport 8m
2 Frequent Flyers

Up arete

FA: B Jung, 2013

12Sport 6m
3 Frodo The Fearless

FA: B Jung, 2013

12Sport 8m
4 S'easy

Short buttress with undercut start

FA: J Reay, 2012

10Sport 8m, 4
5 Up the Spout

Short slab crack with lower off. Great training ground for fledgling trad leads.

FA: M Warren, 2012

8Trad 8m
6 ASAP

Up the slab.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

16Sport 8m, 3
7 Prompt Delivery

Up the slab.

0.5 metre to the right of ASAP.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

15Sport 6m, 3
8 Hanky Panky

A few metres right of Prompt Delivery.

FA: M Warren, 2012

16Sport 8m, 6
9 ** Devious Diversions

Up the middle of the slab.

FA: B Jung, 2012

16Sport 10m, 5
10 Okipoki

3m right of Devious Diversions

FA: J Reay, 2012

14Sport 10m, 5
11 25 Years On

1m left of SC. Start up past blocks moving right to crack. (needs ddb on top)

FA: A.Batey, 2013

9Trad 8m
12 Soho Central

Up slab left of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

12Sport 8m, 4
13 Honk On

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

FA: J Reay, 2012

11Sport 8m, 4
14 Gender Warfare

Face 2m right of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

17Sport 10m, 4
15 Cast Iron Lullaby

Head left after first ring

FA: S Puchala, 2012

17Sport 12m, 6
16 George's Perspiration

Right hand route on the wall.

Start on the right hand edge of the block.

FA: George Kiji Muraoka, 2012

14Sport 12m, 6
17 * Visions Fade

The Arete

FA: S Puchala, 2012

15Sport 10m
18 ** Organic Donkey Milk Products Climb 1

Wall on right side of arete.

FA: M. Warren, 2013

18Sport 12m
19 Squeeze Here

Trench

FA: S Puchala, 2013

12Sport 10m
20 ** Split for Dinner

Face and arete on a buttress 10 right of Visions Fade

FA: M Warren, 2012

13Sport 10m, 6
21 * Sensitive Freight

Corner and arete

FA: M Warren, 2012

15Sport 10m, 5
22 Hot Jam Tart

Slab right of Sensitive Freight

FA: M Warren, 2012

19Sport 6m, 3
23 Your Choice

Has two sets of anchors. Only grade 10 to first set.

FA: B Jung, 2012

14Sport 10m, 5
24 * The Last of the Jelly Beans

FA: B Jung, 2012

14Sport 10m, 5
25 Upstairs Downstairs

20m right of The Last of the Jelly Beans

FA: B Jung, J Reay, 2013

17Sport 12m
26 Jump on Board

10m right of Upstairs Downstairs. Start: On top of boulder.

FA: B Jung, 2013

Sport
27 Don't Believe What You're Told

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: J Reay, 2013

14Sport 5m
28 Coventry Conection

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

21Sport
29 ** Double Decker Disco

Slab

FA: B Jung, 2013

17Sport 12m
30 There's a Room Next Door

FA: B Jung, 2013

15Sport 12m
31 * Can Can Lingerie Lunch Munchers

Start off block on right side of arete.

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

19Sport 14m
32 I Must Be Getting Old

FA: B Jung, 2013

Set 2013

17Sport
33 Ageing Gracefully

For all those of us who wont put down or outdoor gear. Bring out your Johnny Dawes slab shoes and moves. Bolted by Barry and climbed by MattB after permission from Barry. A sneaky high L hand hold and rock over is the key to this route and then dance your way to the top. Still a little dirty towards the top but the route eases off.

Set by Barry Jung, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2014

23Sport 15m, 7
34 A Birds Eye On A Bannana Bender

FA: J Jackson, 2013

17Sport
35 Delete this entry Sport

1.2. The Middle 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.226967, -33.556793

Description:

To the right as you come out of the descent gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Touch of Frost

Left on the Juggy Wall

FA: S Puchala, 2012

16Sport 10m
2 Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum

Start at a sandy flake left of the cave.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

14Sport 10m
3 Hysterical Porcupine

Start on block right of Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum, Up and diagonally left to blunt arete.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

16Sport 10m
4 Lazy Lizards

To the right of the arete.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

10Sport 8m
5 A Soft Touch

Right of Lazy Lizards

FA: S Puchala, 2012

12Sport 8m
6 Avian Antics

Follow the flake.

15m right of the block.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

20Sport 8m, 3
7 Fringe Benefit

Short wall 2m right of Avian Antics.

FA: J McCullogh, 2012

16Sport 8m, 5
8 Down Side Up

Juggy arete.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

19Sport 7m, 6
9 Bob's Breakfast

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

FA: J Reay, 2012

10Sport 8m, 5
10 Who's Bob

Right hand route on Kid's Slab

FA: B Jung, 2012

8Sport 8m, 5
11 J Meister

First climb on the right of the descent gully.

Josie climbs her age on her first project.

FA: Josie McCullogh, 2012

9Sport 8m, 4

1.3. The Left Hand End 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Easy Trad area equipped with belay anchors and rap anchors.

Approach:

Walk past the Middle to get there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Modest Mouth

Layback crack on small ledge above track 5m left of the crack with the tree in it.

FA: Julia Booth, 2012

15Trad 12m
2 Don't the Moon Look Good, Mama

Crack with large tree. Take lefthand exit into corner.

14Trad 12m
3 Ten Carefree Minutes Under a Cloudless Sky

Wide flake and fist crack.

FA: M Warren, 2012

15Trad 10m
4 Fever Dreams

Up the finger crack and then around and onto the slab, staying out of the corners. Run out at the finish.

FA: James Bultitude, 2013

15 RTrad
5 Punch of Punishment

Up the wide crack the the right of Fever Dreams. Traverse to the tree on the right to lower off or exit via the slab of Fever Dreams

FA: James Bultitude, 2013

17Trad 10m
6 Sexo, Drogos y Rocas

Right leaning diagonal finger crack.

FA: Natalia Frazier, 2012

18Trad 12m
7 Mr Mean Mouth

Flaring offwidth 5m right of Sexo, Drogos y Rocas. BIG gear needed.

FA: M Warren, 2012

16Trad 12m
8 Celebrate with Cake

Twin finger crack right of Mr Mean Mouth.

FA: M Warren, 2012

17Trad 12m
9 What a Friend we Have in Mother

Easy corner cracks. Take left hand exit.

FA: M Warren, 2012

11Trad 12m

1.4. Fascist Area 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

As far right as you can go

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * A Good Day For the Beach

Layback.

FA: Kendra Magyar, 2013

15Trad 10m
2 * I've Sent Your Saddle Home

Start: 30m right of A Good Day For the Beach

Corner, crack and flake.

FA: M Warren, 2013

16Trad 12m
3 Organic Donkey Milk Products Climb 2

Easy corner to roof, traverse left then up.

FA: M Warren, 2013

12Trad 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
8 Up the Spout Trad 8m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Who's Bob Sport 8m, 5 1.2. The Middle
9 25 Years On Trad 8m 1.1. The Right Hand End
J Meister Sport 8m, 4 1.2. The Middle
10 S'easy Sport 8m, 4 1.1. The Right Hand End
Bob's Breakfast Sport 8m, 5 1.2. The Middle
Lazy Lizards Sport 8m 1.2. The Middle
11 Honk On Sport 8m, 4 1.1. The Right Hand End
What a Friend we Have in Mother Trad 12m 1.3. The Left Hand End
12 Frequent Flyers Sport 6m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Frodo The Fearless Sport 8m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Soho Central Sport 8m, 4 1.1. The Right Hand End
Squeeze Here Sport 10m 1.1. The Right Hand End
A Soft Touch Sport 8m 1.2. The Middle
Organic Donkey Milk Products Climb 2 Trad 12m 1.4. Fascist Area
13 ** Split for Dinner Sport 10m, 6 1.1. The Right Hand End
14 Don't Believe What You're Told Sport 5m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Flyby Sport 8m 1.1. The Right Hand End
George's Perspiration Sport 12m, 6 1.1. The Right Hand End
Okipoki Sport 10m, 5 1.1. The Right Hand End
* The Last of the Jelly Beans Sport 10m, 5 1.1. The Right Hand End
Your Choice Sport 10m, 5 1.1. The Right Hand End
Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum Sport 10m 1.2. The Middle
Don't the Moon Look Good, Mama Trad 12m 1.3. The Left Hand End
15 Prompt Delivery Sport 6m, 3 1.1. The Right Hand End
* Sensitive Freight Sport 10m, 5 1.1. The Right Hand End
There's a Room Next Door Sport 12m 1.1. The Right Hand End
* Visions Fade Sport 10m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Fever Dreams Trad 1.3. The Left Hand End
Modest Mouth Trad 12m 1.3. The Left Hand End
Ten Carefree Minutes Under a Cloudless Sky Trad 10m 1.3. The Left Hand End
* A Good Day For the Beach Trad 10m 1.4. Fascist Area
16 ASAP Sport 8m, 3 1.1. The Right Hand End
** Devious Diversions Sport 10m, 5 1.1. The Right Hand End
Hanky Panky Sport 8m, 6 1.1. The Right Hand End
A Touch of Frost Sport 10m 1.2. The Middle
Fringe Benefit Sport 8m, 5 1.2. The Middle
Hysterical Porcupine Sport 10m 1.2. The Middle
Mr Mean Mouth Trad 12m 1.3. The Left Hand End
* I've Sent Your Saddle Home Trad 12m 1.4. Fascist Area
17 A Birds Eye On A Bannana Bender Sport 1.1. The Right Hand End
Cast Iron Lullaby Sport 12m, 6 1.1. The Right Hand End
** Double Decker Disco Sport 12m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Gender Warfare Sport 10m, 4 1.1. The Right Hand End
I Must Be Getting Old Sport 1.1. The Right Hand End
Upstairs Downstairs Sport 12m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Celebrate with Cake Trad 12m 1.3. The Left Hand End
Punch of Punishment Trad 10m 1.3. The Left Hand End
18 ** Organic Donkey Milk Products Climb 1 Sport 12m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Sexo, Drogos y Rocas Trad 12m 1.3. The Left Hand End
19 * Can Can Lingerie Lunch Munchers Sport 14m 1.1. The Right Hand End
Hot Jam Tart Sport 6m, 3 1.1. The Right Hand End
Down Side Up Sport 7m, 6 1.2. The Middle
20 Avian Antics Sport 8m, 3 1.2. The Middle
21 Coventry Conection Sport 1.1. The Right Hand End
23 Ageing Gracefully Sport 15m, 7 1.1. The Right Hand End
? Delete this entry Sport 1.1. The Right Hand End
Jump on Board Sport 1.1. The Right Hand End