Site navigation

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Description

Micro sports routes on slabs and features. A great area for beginner leaders and kids.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

Up to 2nd bolt, move left to arete and follow to lower-offs. A direct finish following the bolts is harder than the grade 11 or 12.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

Short buttress with undercut start

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

Short slab crack with lower off. Great training ground for fledgling trad leads.

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

Up the slab.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2012

Up the slab.

0.5 metre to the right of ASAP.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2012

A few metres right of Prompt Delivery.

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

Up the middle of the slab.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2012

3m right of Devious Diversions

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

1m left of SC. Start up past blocks moving right to crack. (needs ddb on top)

FA: A.Batey, 2013

Up slab left of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

Face 2m right of Honk On

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

Head left after first ring

(Training ring below).

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2012

Right hand route on the wall.

Start on the right hand edge of the block.

Set by B Jung

FA: George Kiji Muraoka, 2012

The Arete

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 2012

Wall on right side of arete.

Set by B Jung

FA: M. Warren, 2013

Set by B Jung

FA: S Peters, 2016

Trench (Get and stay in the trench).

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 2013

Face and arete on a buttress 10 right of Visions Fade.

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

Corner and arete

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

Slab right of Sensitive Freight

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

Has two sets of anchors. Only grade 10 to first set.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2012

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2012

20m right of The Last of the Jelly Beans. (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung & J Reay, 2013

10m right of Upstairs Downstairs. Start: On top of boulder.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: J Reay, 2013

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

Slab (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

Corner crack start (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set by B Jump

FA: B. Jung, 2014

Has belay ring

Set by B Jung

FA: M Amos

First climb after alcove.

Set by B Jung

FA: B. Jung, 2014

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

Corner crack to start then Right onto face. Continue around the arete then up.

Set by B Jung

FA: S. Bell, 2014

Start off block on right side of arete.

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

FA: B Jung, 2013

Set by B Jung, 2013

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

A perfect layback and mantle.

FA: K Magyar, 2013

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

For all those of us who wont put down our outdoor gear. Bring out your Johnny Dawes slab shoes and moves. Bolted by Barry and climbed by MattB after permission from Barry. A sneaky high L hand hold and rock over is the key to this route and then dance your way to the top. Still a little dirty towards the top but the route eases off.

Set by Barry Jung, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2014

Left leaning flake corner.

FA: M Warren, 2013

There's a trick to it.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

Up to the roof that projects like a "Skater's Cap", hand traverse right and up to lower-offs.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Peters, 2016

Trends left

Set by B & B Jung

FA: B. Jung, 2014

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2016

Corner

Set by M Warren

FA: M Warren, 2013

Set by B Jung

FA: J Jackson, 2013

Climb out route for alternative track. Last climb at crag. You can walk in and abseil above this route. Rings in boulder.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2016

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Right Hand End.