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Micro sports routes on slabs and features. A great area for beginner leaders and kids. The crag is very new so many of the climbs are still a bit sandy. A bit more traffic will fix this.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!



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Grade Route
14 ** Flyby Sport 8m

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

12 * Frequent Flyers Sport 6m

Up arete

FA: B Jung, 2013

12 * Frodo The Fearless Sport 8m

FA: B Jung, 2013

10 * S'easy Sport 8m, 4

Short buttress with undercut start

FA: J Reay, 2012

8 * Up the Spout Trad 8m

Short slab crack with lower off. Great training ground for fledgling trad leads.

FA: M Warren, 2012

16 * ASAP Sport 8m, 3

Up the slab.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

16 * Prompt Delivery Sport 6m, 3

Up the slab.

0.5 metre to the right of ASAP.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

17 * Hanky Panky Sport 8m, 6

A few metres right of Prompt Delivery.

FA: M Warren, 2012

16 ** Devious Diversions Sport 10m, 5

Up the middle of the slab.

FA: B Jung, 2012

14 * Okipoki Sport 10m, 5

3m right of Devious Diversions

FA: J Reay, 2012

9 * 25 Years On Trad 8m

1m left of SC. Start up past blocks moving right to crack. (needs ddb on top)

FA: A.Batey, 2013

12 * Soho Central Sport 8m, 4

Up slab left of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

11 * Honk On Sport 8m, 4

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

FA: J Reay, 2012

17 * Gender Warfare Sport 10m, 4

Face 2m right of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

17 * Cast Iron Lullaby Sport 12m, 6

Head left after first ring

FA: S Puchala, 2012

14 * George's Perspiration Sport 12m, 6

Right hand route on the wall.

Start on the right hand edge of the block.

FA: George Kiji Muraoka, 2012

16 ** Visions Fade Sport 10m, 7

The Arete

FA: S Puchala, 2012


Wall on right side of arete.

FA: M. Warren, 2013

12 * Squeeze Here Sport 10m


FA: S Puchala, 2013

13 ** Split for Dinner Sport 10m, 6

Face and arete on a buttress 10 right of Visions Fade

FA: M Warren, 2012

15 * Sensitive Freight Sport 10m, 5

Corner and arete

FA: M Warren, 2012

19 * Hot Jam Tart Sport 6m, 3

Slab right of Sensitive Freight

FA: M Warren, 2012

14 * Your Choice Sport 10m, 5

Has two sets of anchors. Only grade 10 to first set.

FA: B Jung, 2012


FA: B Jung, 2012

17 Upstairs Downstairs Sport 12m

20m right of The Last of the Jelly Beans

FA: B Jung & J Reay, 2013


10m right of Upstairs Downstairs. Start: On top of boulder.

FA: B Jung, 2013


Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: J Reay, 2013


Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

17 ** Double Decker Disco Sport 12m


FA: B Jung, 2013

15 Gateway to the West Sport 14m

Corner crack start

FA: B. Jung, 2014

14 YoYo Fever Sport 10m

First climb after alcove.

FA: B. Jung, 2014


FA: B Jung, 2013

17 ** Roundabout Rag Sport 12m

Corner crack to start then Right onto face. Continue around the arete then up.

FA: S. Bell, 2014


Start off block on right side of arete.

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013


FA: B Jung, 2013

Set 2013

23 * Ageing Gracefully Sport 15m, 7

For all those of us who wont put down our outdoor gear. Bring out your Johnny Dawes slab shoes and moves. Bolted by Barry and climbed by MattB after permission from Barry. A sneaky high L hand hold and rock over is the key to this route and then dance your way to the top. Still a little dirty towards the top but the route eases off.

Set by Barry Jung, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2014

13 Zam Zam Sport 13m

FA: B. Jung, 2014


FA: J Jackson, 2013


Check out what is happening in The Right Hand End.