This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Description

Micro sports routes on slabs and features. A great area for beginner leaders and kids.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
14 * Flyby Sport 8m

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

2
12 * Frequent Flyers Sport 8m

Up arete

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

3
12 * Frodo The Fearless Sport 6m

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

4
10 * S'easy Sport 8m, 4

Short buttress with undercut start

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

5
8 * Up the Spout Trad 8m

Short slab crack with lower off. Great training ground for fledgling trad leads.

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

6
16 * ASAP Sport 8m, 3

Up the slab.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2012

7
16 * Prompt Delivery Sport 8m, 3

Up the slab.

0.5 metre to the right of ASAP.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2012

8
17 * Hanky Panky Sport 8m, 6

A few metres right of Prompt Delivery.

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

9
16 ** Devious Diversions Sport 10m, 5

Up the middle of the slab.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2012

10
14 * Okipoki Sport 10m, 5

3m right of Devious Diversions

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

11
9 * 25 Years On Trad 8m

1m left of SC. Start up past blocks moving right to crack. (needs ddb on top)

FA: A.Batey, 2013

12
12 * Soho Central Sport 6m, 4

Up slab left of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

13
11 * Honk On Sport 10m, 4

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

14
17 * Gender Warfare Sport 12m, 4

Face 2m right of Honk On

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

15
17 * Cast Iron Lullaby Sport 12m, 6

Head left after first ring

(Training ring below).

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2012

16
14 * George's Perspiration Sport 12m, 6

Right hand route on the wall.

Start on the right hand edge of the block.

Set by B Jung

FA: George Kiji Muraoka, 2012

17
16 ** Visions Fade Sport 12m, 7

The Arete

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 2012

18

Wall on right side of arete.

Set by B Jung

FA: M. Warren, 2013

19
19 The Gravity Game Sport 12m

Set by B Jung

FA: S Peters, 2016

20
13 * Squeeze Here Sport 6m

Trench (Get and stay in the trench).

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 2013

21
13 ** Split for Dinner Sport 10m, 6

Face and arete on a buttress 10 right of Visions Fade

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

22
15 * Sensitive Freight Sport 8m, 5

Corner and arete

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

23
19 * Hot Jam Tart Sport 8m, 3

Slab right of Sensitive Freight

Set by B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

24
14 * Your Choice Sport 10m, 5

Has two sets of anchors. Only grade 10 to first set.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2012

25

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2012

26
17 Upstairs Downstairs Sport 12m

20m right of The Last of the Jelly Beans. (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung & J Reay, 2013

27
Jump on Board Sport 6m

10m right of Upstairs Downstairs. Start: On top of boulder.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

28

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: J Reay, 2013

29

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

30
17 * Double Decker Disco Sport 14m

Slab (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

31
15 Gateway to the West Sport 14m

Corner crack start (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set by B Jump

FA: B. Jung, 2014

32
23 Pommish Invasion Sport 14m

Has belay ring

Set by B Jung

FA: M Amos

33
14 YoYo Fever Sport 10m

First climb after alcove.

Set by B Jung

FA: B. Jung, 2014

34

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2013

35
17 ** Roundabout Rag Sport 12m

Corner crack to start then Right onto face. Continue around the arete then up.

Set by B Jung

FA: S. Bell, 2014

36

Start off block on right side of arete.

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

37

FA: B Jung, 2013

Set by B Jung, 2013

38
19 Cuddle Puddle Sport 9m

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

39

A perfect layback and mantle.

FA: K Magyar, 2013

40
16 Red Beard Sport 12m

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

41
23 * Ageing Gracefully Sport 8m, 7

For all those of us who wont put down our outdoor gear. Bring out your Johnny Dawes slab shoes and moves. Bolted by Barry and climbed by MattB after permission from Barry. A sneaky high L hand hold and rock over is the key to this route and then dance your way to the top. Still a little dirty towards the top but the route eases off.

Set by Barry Jung, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 2014

42

Left leaning flake corner.

FA: M Warren, 2013

43
19 Treeroo Territory Sport 15m

There's a trick to it.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

44
17 Skater's Cap Sport 10m

Set by B Jung

FA: S Peters, 2016

45
13 Zam Zam Sport 13m

Set by B & B Jung

FA: B. Jung, 2014

46
10 Willow Sport 8m

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2016

47

Corner

Set by M Warren

FA: M Warren, 2013

48

Set by B Jung

FA: J Jackson, 2013

49
15 Home Run Sport 12m

Climb out route for alternative track. Last climb at crag. You can walk in and abseil above this route. Rings in boulder.

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2016

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Right Hand End.