A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. The Left Hand End 9 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Easy Trad area equipped with belay anchors and rap anchors.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Walk past the Middle to get there.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Modest Mouth

Layback crack on small ledge above track 5m left of the crack with the tree in it.

FA: Julia Booth, 2012

15 Trad 12m
2 Don't the Moon Look Good, Mama

Crack with large tree. Take lefthand exit into corner.

14 Trad 12m
3 Ten Carefree Minutes Under a Cloudless Sky

Wide flake and fist crack.

FA: M Warren, 2012

15 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Fever Dreams

Up the finger crack and then around and onto the slab, staying out of the corners. Run out at the finish.

FA: James Bultitude, 2013

15 R Trad
5 Punch of Punishment

Up the wide crack the the right of Fever Dreams. Traverse to the tree on the right to lower off or exit via the slab of Fever Dreams

FA: James Bultitude, 2013

17 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Sexo, Drogos y Rocas

Right leaning diagonal finger crack.

FA: Natalia Frazier, 2012

18 Trad 12m
7 Mr Mean Mouth

Flaring offwidth 5m right of Sexo, Drogos y Rocas. BIG gear needed.

FA: M Warren, 2012

16 Trad 12m
8 Celebrate with Cake

Twin finger crack right of Mr Mean Mouth.

FA: M Warren, 2012

17 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 What a Friend we Have in Mother

Easy corner cracks. Take left hand exit.

FA: M Warren, 2012

11 Trad 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 What a Friend we Have in Mother Trad 12m
14 Don't the Moon Look Good, Mama Trad 12m
15 Modest Mouth Trad 12m
Ten Carefree Minutes Under a Cloudless Sky Trad 10m
15 R Fever Dreams Trad
16 Mr Mean Mouth Trad 12m
17 Celebrate with Cake Trad 12m
Punch of Punishment Trad 10m
18 Sexo, Drogos y Rocas Trad 12m