Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Great new climb on this mega wall. Thin sequence moves to start with the holds getting better and better the high you climb.

FFA: Ben JengA Lane., 2013

2
22 *** Passing Wind Sport 30m

Start: A few more metres to the right and around the arete. Up on block.hard start The middle line.

FA: J.Smoothy,MColyvan, 1987

3
24 ** Second Wind Sport 30m

a fine route. start as for passing wind to 3rd bolt then head out left following rings

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1988

4
25 ** Mekong Dreaming Sport 20m, 7

Start at the first belay of CtW. Easily approached by abseiling in and walking 5m R on the ledge. You only need 1 or 2 red camalots for the belay if also using the rap rope and the first bolt. Climb 4m up right, then up the excellent steep prow in a great position. Lower off the last ring, or take brackets for a cramped top belay off carrots.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1999

5
25 *** Second Dreaming Sport 35m

The mega link of 2nd wind into MD. Climbs the best of both routes

FA: 2013

6
21 *** Catch the Wind Trad 45m

This is the reason you came here.

Start: A couple of metres to the right (facing in) of the rap line. The obvious line!

  1. 15m (21) Up corner to roof and belay.

  2. 30m (21) Jam to Glory.

FA: C.Peisker,C.Bowman, 1976

7

This is the short steep ringbolted sport route above the belay ledge at the top of Catch the Wind. It trends left on good orange rock then continues up suss black rock.

FA: Unknown 2000s

8
19 * Catchit Sport 15m

Slab.

Start: Rap in to halfway ledge and climb out.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

9
25 *** Advanced Rockcraft Trad 30m

Arete 40m left of 'Catch the Wind'.

Start: Rap in, or aid on a couple of carrots, to gain arete.

  1. 20m (23) 'Arete' to belay.

  2. 10m (25) Up crack following carrots. Past the piton (0.5 Friend)and through the roof to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1986

10
22 ** Focal Point Trad 40m

Scramble trough the bush to ledge. Crack to ledge to crack to overhang. 'Steep' corner to jam crack.

Start: Corner 100m left or 'Advanced Rockcraft'.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980