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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 *** Focal Point Trad 40m

Scramble trough the bush to ledge. Crack to ledge to crack to overhang. 'Steep' corner to jam crack.

Start: Corner 100m left or 'Advanced Rockcraft'.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

2
25 *** Advanced Rockcraft Mixed 30m 2, 6

Arete 40m left of 'Catch the Wind'. Follow faint path underneath amphitheatre to Arete. Or rap 40m down route from top anchors.

Rebolted March 2016.

Start: Stick clip new ring and aid your way to hanging belay. (best to have belayer on the ground).

  1. 20m (23) Thin, balancy traverse to 'Arete' then up to DBB passing 4 more bolts and cam (0.5 C4).

  2. 10m (25) Up face following 2 rings to start of crack. Up spectacular overhanging finger crack (past old FH, possibly not needed) to lip and up a long way to DBB.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1986

3

Excellent route to fill in your day when climbing at 'Catch the Wind'. Pitch 1 is nearly a sport route if your brave (ground fall), otherwise take a 0.5 C4 cam for the horizontal slot.

Arete 40m left of 'Catch the Wind'. Follow faint path underneath amphitheatre to obvious Arete.

Rebolted March 2016.

Start: Stick clip new ring and aid your way hanging belay. (best to have belayer on the ground).

From hanging belay - Thin, balancy traverse to 'Arete' then up to DBB passing 4 more bolts and cam (0.5 C4).

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1986

4

This is the short steep ringbolted sport route above the belay ledge at the top of Catch the Wind. It trends left on good orange rock then continues up suss black rock.

FA: Unknown 2000s

5
19 * Catchit Sport 15m

Slab.

Start: Rap in to halfway ledge and climb out.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

6
21 *** Catch the Wind Trad 45m 2

This is the reason you came here.

Start: A couple of metres to the right (facing in) of the rap line. The obvious line!

  1. 15m (21) Up corner to roof and belay.

  2. 30m (21) Jam to Glory.

FA: C.Peisker & C.Bowman, 1976

7
25 ** Mekong Dreaming Sport 20m, 7

Start at the first belay of CtW. Easily approached by abseiling in and walking 5m R on the ledge. You only need 1 or 2 red camalots for the belay if also using the rap rope and the first bolt. Climb 4m up right, then up the excellent steep prow in a great position. Lower off the last ring, or take brackets for a cramped top belay off carrots.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1999

8
25 *** Second Dreaming Sport 35m

The mega link of 2nd wind into MD. Climbs the best of both routes

FA: 2013

9
24 *** Second Wind Sport 30m

a fine route. start as for passing wind to 3rd bolt then head out left following rings

FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 1988

10
22 *** Passing Wind Sport 30m

Start: A few more metres to the right and around the arete. Up on block.hard start The middle line.

FA: J.Smoothy & MColyvan, 1987

11

Great new climb on this mega wall. Thin sequence moves to start with the holds getting better and better the high you climb.

FFA: Ben JengA Lane., 2013

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