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Summary

A unique feature of this crag is the likelihood you will have it all to yourself.

Description

An old crag rediscovered, nestled in a bend on the upper Grose River, a nice summer morning or winter afternoons crag. With the exception of a few mixed climbs, routes are predominantly sport bolted with rings , fh's, U's and many carrots also. Bring bolt plates and a light rack to make the most of the crag.

A lot of routes feature loose rock, be careful what you pull on and stand on. Helmets definitely advised!

Access issues

This is within Blue Mountains National Park, no dogs.

Approach

15min Drive from Blackheath. 45min walk from Mt Vic Train Station. Crag is15/20 min walk from car. Turn off highway into Victoria Falls Rd, Mt Victoria. 2wd fine. From NPWS boundary gate continue 800mtr then at crest of white hill take left turn. This turns back for 100mtrs then park in clearing at faint 3way intersection. Please dont block main road heading downhill as this is a powerline access trail. . Walk down firetrail for 150mtrs where there is a small cairn of rocks on right

Follow small trail for approx 20mtr bearing left as it joins disused overgrown firetrail leading down hill. Continue down this until it peters out, then follow faint trail and stone cairns for another 5 minutes until spur becomes apparent.

Handrail right side of spur keeping main pagodas on your left then turn left at base. Follow base of cliff upstream. First routes (Henryk Manouvre) are located approx 50mtrs along base.

Where to stay

Camp at Mt York or at the end of Victoria Falls Rd.

Ethic

Please make the effort to head back up the hill away from the creek to bury your business.

History

View historical timeline

Besides the recent 2012/13 additions the previous 10 routes are so far unknown. Look forward to updating this.

Tags

Contents

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Routes from left to right facing in.

Line of rings to lower off left of corner , crux is first moves past bolt.

FFA: Unknown

line of rings right of corner above big boulder , same start as cc , up to nice and shiny chain lower offs (courtesy of Henryk

FFA: Unknown

line of rings furthest R , great route with no particular crux , up to chain lower offs.

FFA: Unknown

The next four routes are located on large red wall capped by roof.

Start same as TotSoD then head left at 3rd bolt. You will need 14 quickdraws. 16 if you intend to toprope. Enjoy.

FFA: Evan Wells

Stick clip u bolt then up.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Up line of U's past scoops and breaks to.... *&^#, then straight through middle of steepness and great second half

FFA: E. Wells, 2014

Climbs grey rock finishing right of rooflet.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Choss! Used to be a tad runout up high , since been softened. Mixed route (Camalots #3 & #0.5). Stickclip RB, pull through pockets, awkward mantle and reachy up to cam placements on right, then FH's up slab to sweet arete and lower offs. Three extra bolts added 2014 so route name is almost irrelevant.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Through pockets and move at U bolt 5m R of ECOT. Then Cams (#0.4 , #0.5 , #0.75 , #3) to line of hangers and RB , staying in the orange rock and finishing at Ecot lower off. Hard cruxes with a nice jug in the middle.

FFA: E. Wells, 2014

Batman to u-bolt then up slab and flakes. Good fun.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

A commiting lead. Up slab staying right of large orange flake past horizontal (large wire or cam) through orange rock to lower offs. Take 5 bolt plates and a large wire.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

line of carrots to top out on main wall

next line of carrots finishing up small corner to top out.

Same start as GTS for three BR's then slightly left and up past two more BR's and 2 FH's into line of rings and steep stellar rock.Awesome sequences! Bring 5 bolt plates.

FFA: E. Wells, 2014

Climb past four BR then into line of rings, oozing up into a roof then good edges up a headwall to sneaky crimps and pocket. Finishing jugs at top. Definately a soft touch and overbolted too. Take 4 bolt plates and 15 draws.

FFA: E. Wells, 2014

A few carrots on far right of main wall.

'Islamic Flamingos' can be found on a seperate buttress of rock behind Boulder. Or head down the hill before the boulder to 'Drone Powder' and 'Lina Patina'

Far right behind big boulder. Up hanging arette to steep wall. Nice.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Then down hill 20mtr to boulder.

Left side of boulder up face to large features, crux and lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Steepest climb here. Right side of boulder. Trends left, low crux.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Cross creek over one of a few convenient fallen trees. bring bolt plates and light rack. Routes top out and are very short.

Arete on other side of creek. Cool moves on both sides of it. 3 carrots and two cam placements. Up to some old chain lower off.

face right of arete

up corner crack for a while then face

corner crack

Activity

Check out what is happening in Little River.