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Summary

A unique feature of this crag is the likelihood you will have it all to yourself.

Description

An old crag rediscovered, nestled in a bend on the upper Grose River, a nice summer morning or winter afternoons crag. With the exception of a few mixed climbs, routes are predominantly sport bolted with rings , fh's, U's and many carrots also. Bring bolt plates and a light rack to make the most of the crag.

Access issues

This is within Blue Mountains National Park, no dogs.

Approach

15min Drive from Blackheath. 45min walk from Mt Vic Train Station. Crag is15/20 min walk from car. Turn off highway into Victoria Falls Rd, Mt Victoria. 2wd fine. From NPWS boundary gate continue 800mtr then at crest of hill take left turn. Take this for 100mtrs then park in clearing at faint intersection .

1.Walk down firetrail for 150mtrs where there is a small cairn of white rocks on right

2.Follow small trail for approx 20mtr bearing left as it joins disused firetrail leading down hill. Continue down this until it peters out, then follow marker tape for another 5 minutes until spur becomes apparent.

  1. Handrail right side of spur between pagodas then turn left at base. Follow base of cliff. First routes are located approx 50mtrs along base and are as yet a mystery. (note: since 2013 fires trail and marker tape is gone.)

Where to stay

Camp at Mt York or at the end of Victoria Falls Rd.

Ethic

Please make the effort to head back up the hill away from the creek to bury your business.

History

Besides the recent 2012/13 additions the previous 10 routes are so far unknown. Look forward to updating this.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes from left to right facing in.

1
13 ? Sport 20m

Line of rings to lower off left of corner

2
?2 Sport 20m

line of rings right of corner above big boulder...No lower offs. Probably best to thread last ring however there is a fixed bracket set back from top.

3
?3 Sport

line of rings furthest R , no lower offs.

The next two routes are located on large red wall capped by roof.

4

Stick clip u bolt then up.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

5
21 * Sunny War Sport 25m, 11

Up line of U's past scoops and breaks to.... mantle, then straight through middle of steepness and great second half

FFA: E. Wells, 20th May

6
18 ** Scrabble Nerds Sport 23m, 10

climbs grey rock finishing right of rooflet.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

7
21 * Everyones Cup of Tea Mixed 25m, 10

Used to be a tad runout up high , since been softened. Mixed route (Camalots #3 & #0.5). Stickclip RB, pull through pockets, awkward mantle and reachy up to cam placements on right, then FH's up slab to sweet arete and lower offs. Three extra bolts added 2014 so route name is almost irrelevant.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

8
Closed Project Mixed Project 7

Tagged U bolt 5m R of ECOT. Cams to line of hangers , closed project.

Main wall

9
23 *** Rubber Dingy Rapids Sport 22m, 9

Batman to u-bolt then up slab and flakes. Good fun.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

10
19 * Little River Snooze Mixed 24m, 8

Up slab staying right of large orange flake past horizontal (large wire or cam) through orange rock to lower offs. Take 5 bolt plates and a large wire.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

11
?? Sport

line of carrots to top out on main wall

12
** ??? Sport

next line of carrots finishing up small corner to top out.

13
24 *** Firebird Sport 25m, 13

Same start as GTS for three BR's then slightly left and up past two more BR's and 2 FH's into line of rings and steep stellar rock.Awesome sequences! Bring 5 bolt plates.

FFA: E. Wells, 20th May

14
22 * Glue Tube Sensation Sport 25m, 15

Climb past four BR then into line of rings, oozing up into a roof then good edges up a headwall to sneaky crimps and pocket. Finishing jugs at top. Definately a soft touch and overbolted too. Take 4 bolt plates and 15 draws.

FFA: E. Wells, 20th May

15
?/ Sport

A few carrots on far right of main wall.

The next route is furthest right on seperate butress of rock behind Boulder.

16
23 ** Islamic Flamingos Sport 20m, 8

Far right behind big boulder. Up hanging arette to steep wall. Nice.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Then down hill 20mtr to boulder.

17
22 * Drone Powder Sport 15m, 7

Left side of boulder up face to large features, crux and lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

18
19 * Lina Patina Sport 15m, 8

Steepest climb here. Right side of boulder. Trends left, low crux.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Cross creek over one of a few convenient fallen trees. bring bolt plates and light rack. Routes top out and are very short.

19
1 Sport

arette on other side of creek

20
2 Sport

face right of arete

21
3 Trad

up corner crack for a while then face

22
4 Trad

corner crack

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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