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Summary

A unique feature of this crag is the likelihood you will have it all to yourself.

Description

An old crag rediscovered, nestled in a bend on the upper Grose River, a nice summer morning or winter afternoons crag. With the exception of a few mixed climbs, routes are predominantly bolted with some carrots also.

Access issues

This is within Blue Mountains National Park, no dogs.

Approach

15min Drive from Blackheath. 45min walk from Mt Vic Train Station. Crag is15/20 min walk from car. Turn off highway into Victoria Falls Rd, Mt Victoria. 2wd fine. From NPWS boundary gate continue 800mtr then at crest of hill take left turn. Take this for 100mtrs then park in clearing at faint intersection .

1.Walk down firetrail for 150mtrs where there is a small cairn of white rocks on right

2.Follow small trail for approx 20mtr bearing left as it joins disused firetrail leading down hill. Continue down this until it peters out, then follow marker tape for another 5 minutes until spur becomes apparent.

  1. Handrail right side of spur between pagodas then turn left at base. Follow base of cliff. First routes are located approx 50mtrs along base and are as yet a mystery. (note: since 2013 fires trail and marker tape is gone.)

Where to stay

Camp at Mt York

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

History

Besides the recent 2012/13 additions the previous 10 routes are so far unknown. Look forward to updating this.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes from left to right facing in.

1
13 ? Sport 20m

Line of rings to lower off left of corner

2
?2 Sport 20m

line of rings right of corner above big boulder...No lower offs. Probably best to thread last ring however there is a fixed bracket set back from top.

3
?3 Sport

line of rings furthest R , no lower offs.

The next two routes are located on large red wall capped by roof.

4

Stick clip u bolt then up.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

5
18 ** Scrabble Nerds Sport 23m, 10

climbs grey rock finishing right of rooflet.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

6
21 * Everyones Cup of Tea Mixed 20m, 7

A tad runout up high. Mixed route (#3 & #.75). Stickclip RB, pullthrough rooflet and up to cam placements, then FH's up slab to sweet arete and lower offs.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Main wall

7
23 *** Rubber Dingy Rapids Sport 22m, 9

Batman to u-bolt then up slab and flakes. Good fun.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

8
19 * Little River Snooze Mixed 24m, 8

Up slab staying right of large orange flake past horizontal (large wire or cam) through orange rock to lower offs. Take 5 bolt plates and a large wire.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

9
?? Sport

line of carrots to top out on main wall

10
** ??? Sport

next line of carrots finishing up small corner to top out.

11
?/ Sport

A few carrots on far right of main wall.

The next route is furthest right on seperate butress of rock behind Boulder.

12
23 ** Islamic Flamingos Sport 20m, 8

Far right behind big boulder. Up hanging arette to steep wall. Nice.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Then down hill 20mtr to boulder.

13
22 * Drone Powder Sport 15m, 7

Left side of boulder up face to large features, crux and lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

14
19 * Lina Patina Sport 15m, 8

Steepest climb here. Right side of boulder. Trends left, low crux.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

Cross creek over one of a few convenient fallen trees. bring bolt plates and light rack. Routes top out and are very short.

15
1 Sport

arette on other side of creek

16
2 Sport

face right of arete

17
3 Trad

up corner crack for a while then face

18
4 Trad

corner crack

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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