Little River Mostly sport climbing18 routes in crag
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A unique feature of this crag is the likelihood you will have it all to yourself.
An old crag rediscovered, nestled in a bend on the upper Grose River, a nice summer morning or winter afternoons crag. With the exception of a few mixed climbs, routes are predominantly bolted with some carrots also.
This is within Blue Mountains National Park, no dogs.
15min Drive from Blackheath. 45min walk from Mt Vic Train Station. Crag is15/20 min walk from car. Turn off highway into Victoria Falls Rd, Mt Victoria. 2wd fine. From NPWS boundary gate continue 800mtr then at crest of hill take left turn. Take this for 100mtrs then park in clearing at faint intersection .
1.Walk down firetrail for 150mtrs where there is a small cairn of white rocks on right
2.Follow small trail for approx 20mtr bearing left as it joins disused firetrail leading down hill. Continue down this until it peters out, then follow marker tape for another 5 minutes until spur becomes apparent.
- Handrail right side of spur between pagodas then turn left at base. Follow base of cliff. First routes are located approx 50mtrs along base and are as yet a mystery. (note: since 2013 fires trail and marker tape is gone.)
Where to stay
Camp at Mt York
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
Besides the recent 2012/13 additions the previous 10 routes are so far unknown. Look forward to updating this.
There are no open trips for this crag
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