The Headlands All Sport climbing19 routes in crag
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A fairly new crag
All climbs on the crag are developed and erected by Barry Jung between 2013 and 2016. This climbing area is unknown to most climbers and the climbs are so new that they don't even have any chalk marks on them. This area is suitable for for all type of climbers and also for trad climb training. It is recommended to bring your natural gear as some of the bolted routes are along cracks so one can practice trad gear placements. All climbs are very well bolted consisting of top belay rings. The ledge can be dangerous at places so please walk around with caution. Some of the climbs has belay rings to secure the belayer. Safety lines have also been installed to help you move around the crag with safety.
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
The total approach time of the crag is 20 mins and is very easy to navigate. Park on the Mt. York Road at the start of Lockyers Road. Walk a short distance to the intersection and turn left on the Lockyers track. Follow this track for 15 minutes. Now you will find a metal sign post in the middle of the track. After 50 meters from that sign post turn left and the follow the new track. Soon you will pick up the old track by the small creek (on your left side). Follow this for 30 meters then cross the creek. Now you will see two large tress in the middle of the track. Follow the track around the cliff line and you will soon see the first climbs.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
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