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Table of contents

1. Mount Victoria Area 1,636 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.262970, -33.563365


Once the focus of Blueys climbing, it's now seen a fair bit of regeneration. Mt Piddington is our premier trad climbing area. Lots of variety from old school mixed climbing through to state of the art sport climbing and even bouldering. Mt York has free camping and is the 'end' of the Blue Mountains - it's also the Blueys instructional area. Mt Vic has a great pub, an old art deco movie theatre, a museum and many fine bushwalks for the non climbers. It's 6km from Blackheath.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Mount Piddington 274 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.255101, -33.604702

Description:© (secretary)

This lovely and varied crag is the home of modern rock climbing in NSW.

Approach:© (secretary)

Situated below Horne's Point in Mount 'Victoria'.

1.1.1. Hornes Point 3 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.253000, -33.606209

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yellow Crack

The obvious crack starting in the cave.

FA: M. Law, 1970

14 Trad 25m
2 Yellow Wall

Climb the wall on interesting rock 2m right of Yellow Crack past new carrots.

Top out and look for rings set well back from edge.

FA: M Law, 1979

18 Sport 15m
3 Yellow Fever

Start just to the right of Yellow Wall on the jug, move right then follow line of rings.

FA: S Puchala, 2000

17 Sport 15m

1.1.2. Pindari 38 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.256350, -33.605255

Description:© (secretary)

More recently developed than Wirindi, 'Pindari' contains some great multi-pitch climbing (mostly on bolts). Many of the gear lines are good they just need a few more ascents.

The routes in this area are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

Approach:© (secretary)

The shady side of Mt.Piddington.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown 20 Unknown 12m
2 Ease

Middle of the short black wall in the gully.

FA: D.Grey, 1985

10 R Trad 15m
3 Bare Essentials

Scooped arete down from E.

FA: D.grey, 1985

16 R Trad 18m
4 ** Rampaging Roy

The left hand route from the belay of TSL. Take the camera!

FA: S.Moon, 2000

21 Sport 30m
5 *** This Sporting Life
  1. 18m (19) Lovely techie slab to comfy belay ledge.

  2. 25m (20) Slabby arête then a runout into cave, lean carefully left out of cave for 3rd RB. Now fight the pump up the long sustained overhung headwall right to the last move. DRB 2m back over the top.

FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1992

20 Sport 50m 2, 15
6 ** Much of a Muchness

3rd route of the belay of TSL.

FA: M.Pircher,A.Duckworth, 2000

22 Sport 30m
7 ** The House of Meat

Start: The second pitch is good. Not so the first! Best to traverse right from the belay of TSL (Bolt would be handy!) and belay on the ledge below the climb.

FA: M.Law,L.McManus, 1992

23 Sport 50m
8 Bets over Boredom

Start: Start from the block in chimney (Houdini), left to ledge, slab and arete to top.

FA: W.Stevens,A.Peacock, 2001

22 Trad 50m
9 Houdini

You may wish you were a magician at some point on this one.

Start: Chimney etc.

FA: J.Ewbank,A.Campbell, 1969

17 R Trad 45m
10 Project 1 project Trad
11 Rimensky

Start: 9m right in chimney.

  1. 15m (8) Chimney to small ledge.

  2. 30m (12) Chimney to sandy cave and up.

FA: J.Ewbank,B.Allen, 1968

12 Trad 45m 2
12 * Lord Jim

Start: Flared crack 4m right of R.

  1. 15m (-) Groove to tree? and piton.

  2. 30m (18) Crack and chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Giles,V.Kennedy, 1970

18 Trad 45m 2
13 * The White Lion

Start: Thin crack 4m right again.

  1. 21m (19) Crack then right to next crack to below the block.Turn arete and left to tree?

  2. 30m (18) Finish as for LJ.

FA: I.Lewis,K.Carrigan, 1974

19 Trad 51m 2
14 * The White Lion P1 19 Unknown 21m
15 * Holly Golightly

Start: As for TWL until it veers left. Up right side of arete and up.

FA: J.Lynch,T.Barten,M.Peck, 1987

20 R Trad 48m
16 Project 2 project Unknown
17 * Beserker

Start: 4m right of TWL.

  1. 27m (-) Corner to roof.

  2. 27m (19) Up to lip,crack then to trees.

  3. 6m (-) Crack

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall,G.Child, 1974

19 Aid 54m 3
18 Off–Roader

Rings to the right of the arete, R of Berserker.

FA: M.Law, M.Warren, 2003

27 Sport 20m
19 Pyreaugh

Start: 40m right of B. Ledge above track.

  1. 12m (-) Crack to undercut chimney, corner.Right to anchor.

  2. 15m (11) Chimney to roof, then short wall to tree?

  3. 30m (11) 'Gully' and wall to tree?

FA: G.Owens,G.Davies,L.Selman,R.Smith, 1966

11 R Trad 57m 3
20 * Mirage

Start: 20m right again.

  1. 25m (18) Corner to pedestal.

  2. 25m (20) Right to arete, down 3m then into corner. under roof to corner, over roof to stance.

  3. 30m (18) Crack to roof, right to arete, traverse to corner, up to belay.

  4. 20m (20) Right side of flake then up to tree?

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall,D.Gleason, 1974

20 Trad 100m 4
21 Lay Lady Lay

Start: 5m right of M. Below roof.

  1. 25m (17 M3) Levitate gear into crack and climb the rope. Free to ledge!

  2. 20m (17) Corner(s) to roof,left to M anchor 2.

Jeez!...it sounds good!

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall,D.Gleason, 1974

17 M3 Aid 45m 2
22 * Nostromo

Start: 125m right of LLL.Corner with parralel crack 1m right.

  1. 22m (16) Corner to ledge and tree?

  2. 33m (16) Corner to chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank,B.Allen, 1968

16 Trad 55m 2
23 Xenon's Son

Start: 9m right of N.

FA: J.Worrall, 1974

14 Trad 15m
24 Shugar

Start: 5m right of XS.

  1. 30m (-) Crack to block,arete, slab to roof. Traverse right to top of chimney.

  2. 15m (18) Left corner.

FA: M.Law, 1974

18 Sport 45m 2
25 Gargoyle's Mouth

Start: 5m right again.

  1. 24m (-) Bridge to attain chimney.

  2. 16m (18) Right corner.

FA: J.Worral,M.Law, 1974

18 Trad 40m 2
26 June Day

Not sure of the grade on this.

Start: 'Arete' right of GM.

FA: M.Law, 1974

18 R Trad 40m
27 Gross Crack

63m right of GM.

Start: Wide crack just left of corner.

FA: R.Young,M.Burton, 1980

18 Trad 40m
28 * Bandalero

Start: 8m right of GC.

FA: R.Young,M.Burton, 1980

18 Trad 46m
29 ** Vets Over Verdon

Variation of JoJ second pitch.

Start: Straight up the arete to anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Stacey, 1988

25 Sport 20m
30 ** Jets Over Jordan

Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30m left of Voyage for Two.

  1. 30m (23) Right and then left side of arete. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the runout.

  2. 20m (24) Arete and flake, right to small roof, up then back to the arete and up.

FA: M.Stacey,S.Moon, 1987

FFA: J.Smoothy,M.Stacey,M.Law, 1988

24 Sport 50m 2
31 ** Pussy Strut

Needs a rebolt!

Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.

  1. 27m (26) Up right to arete, then left. Up wall and groove.

  2. 23m (22) Groove, right around bulge, up wall and corner as for VfT.

FA: M.Law,G.Child, 1989

26 Sport 50m 2
32 *** Voyage for Two

3 pitches rebolted 2004

Start: 'Arete' just right of NA. Start in thin crack right side of the arete. Ring bolts.

FA: M. Law, S. Butler, 1988

25 Sport 55m
33 Golden Years

Start: 40m right of B.

  1. 20m (18) Undercat ferny crack to short crack on left.

  2. 20m (-) Right across wall to 'Cripple Corner' anchor 1.

  3. 20m (-) Finish as for CC.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

18 Trad 60m 3
34 Cripple Corner

Start: Thin crack 13m right of GY.

  1. 20m (18) Short corner right then over to belay.

  2. 20m (-) Right crack leading left.Up.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

18 Trad 40m 2
35 No Action

Start: 20m right of CC.

  1. 35m (22) Finger crack to ledge. hand crack to stumps? on ledge.

  2. 40m (-) Past scrub to roof, carefully left to corner, furthur to end of roof. Up.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

22 Trad 75m 2
36 ** Blind Ambition

Start: 20m right of NA.

  1. 40m (22) Corner to ledge on right. Left to narrowing crack.Left to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Corner to ledge, crack through overhang. Up.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

22 Trad 60m 2
37 Death Syndrome

Start: 22m right of BA.Corner.

  1. 30m (-) Ledge, wide crack to ferns (?), right and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (21) 'Layback' and wall.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

21 Trad 50m 2
38 Zagen

Start: 100m right of DS.

  1. 30m (16) Roof capped corner to arete. Left to mantle, up to traverse. Right and up to tree?

  2. 25m (11) Pinacle and wall, crack.

FA: D.Wagland, 1979

16 Trad 55m 2

1.1.3. Unwashed Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.252736, -33.606255

Description:© (mjw)

The first area you come to when walking in down the Horne's Point Fire Road.

The climbs are listed RIGHT to LEFT as you come to them. Many are marked.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Bonatti Crack

Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully.

The obvious crack - good intro to jamming

FA: Walter Bonatti, 2000

11 Trad 8m
2 Chris' Climb

Start: 3m right of TBC.

FA: M.Law,Harrison, 1979

22 Trad 9m
3 No Fingers, No Fun

Start: 1m left again.

23 Sport 13m
4 Taurus

Start: 1m left again. 'Diagonal Crack'.

FA: J.Worral,R.Templeton, 1968

16 Trad 21m
5 Accuracy

Start: 5m left of T.

FA: Dowden, 1980

21 R Trad 20m
6 Up and Coming

Start: Arete 3.5m left of A.

FA: M.Law, Reece, 1977

20 R Trad 20m
7 Great Unwashed Direct Start

Start: Up the crack to the right of GU.

14 Trad 20m
8 * Great Unwashed

Has a direct start - crack to the right. Add 4 grades!

FA: G.Owens,L.Williams,J.Wilson, 1969

9 Trad 20m
9 Shango

Start: Right side of the arete left of GU. Has been rebolted with a direct start.

FA: G Fieg, 1991

20 R Sport 20m
10 Problems

Start: Short chimney 2m left of S. No pro!!

FA: M.Law, 1978

19 R Trad 15m

1.1.4. Helen Boulder 13 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.252492, -33.606456

Approach:© (mjw)

Huge boulder 30m down hill from Descent Gull Area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spastic Octopus

Start: Nth facing wall 30m down from 'Last Chance'.

FA: G.Robbins, 1980

18 Sport 10m
2 Helen

Start: crack 3m right of SO.

FA: C.Monteath, 1971

15 Trad 12m
3 Intermission

Start: Traverse line 1m right of H.

FA: G.Weigand, 1981

19 Trad 15m
4 Bolt Upright

Start: Blunt arete 8m to the right. Solo!

FA: M.Law, 1978

15 R Trad 22m
5 The Loch Ness Whippet

Start: 5m right of BU.

FA: A.Farquar, 1992

23 Sport 22m
6 * Salem Super Direct

Start: Blunt arete 2m right of TLNW.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1978

19 R Trad 23m
7 ** Zany

Start: This diagonal 4m right again.

FA: A.Penney,M.Law, 1978

19 Sport 23m
8 * Pandemonium

Start: 1m right of Z.

FA: A.Penney,M.Law, 1978

20 Trad 23m
9 ** Mandelbrot Set

Start up arete under fixed hanger between Pandemonium and Hot Water, finishing up HW.

FA: W Stevens, 2002

22 Mixed 15m, 1
10 Hot Water

Start: Chimney 1m right of Z.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Dunn,P.Martland, 1978

17 Trad 15m
11 Guinevere

Start: As for HW. Chimney and corner.

FA: M.Law,L.Hall, 1974

11 Trad 20m
12 Doughboy

Start: Left arete directly below G.

FA: W.Moon, 1980

15 Trad 15m
13 Crocodile Tears

Up grooove 3m right of Doughboy

FA: W Moon, 1980

15 Trad 15m

1.1.5. Right Side 34 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.252599, -33.605625


The small area between Think Kink and Their Finest Hour

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Last Chance

Start: 11 left of P.

FFA: W.Williams,A.Stevens (Law,Carrigan), 1974

19 Trad 15m
2 Think Kink

Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and a glue-in carrot.

Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC.

FA: M.Law,K.Rosebery, 1976

17 Sport 16m, 4
3 * Toucan Café

Start: 1m left of TK.

FA: A.Penney,G.Bradbury, 1980

20 Sport 15m
4 Slape

Start: The middle of the wall.

FA: A.Gordon,M.Law,R.Taylor, 1972

17 R Trad 20m
5 * Rad Fem

Start: 2m left of S.

FA: M.Law, 1979

22 Trad 18m
6 Glass Asylum

Start: 2.5m left again.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

22 Trad 20m
7 * Turkey Patrol

Start: 4m left of GA.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1978

20 Trad 18m
8 Their Finest Hour

Start: Chimney with block, cave and roof. 3 Pitches.

FA: R.Smith,D.Moss, 1965

6 Trad 40m
9 Tyrannasaurus Rex

Start: 10m left of TFH.

FA: A.Campbell,B.Osbourne,T.Tierney, 1966

12 Trad 50m
10 The Last of the Dregs 15 Trad 30m
11 Masochist 18 Trad 38m
12 Whatever You Like 12 Trad 35m
13 ** Merlot Madness

Harder and better than it looks. Start left of WYL. Straight up wall with carrots and small/medium cams to DRBB.

FA: B Cameron, H Luxford, 2008

18 Trad 30m
14 Chicken Hearted

Start 7m left of WYL. Supplement new bolts with a few cams. Up to ledge, tehn overhang and straight to top.

FA: H Luxford, B Osbourne, 1966

13 Trad 42m
15 Cider 11 Trad 39m
16 Gog 21 Trad 37m
17 Chimney and Wall

1m left of Gog.

An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.

  1. Up chimney 1m left of Gog to bushy ledge. Fun climbing with good pro. 12m (8)

  2. Corner then wall and ramp on right. 24m (8) Alternatively, finish as for Cider in bottleneck chimney above.

FA: J Ewbank, E Saxby., 1964

8 Trad 40m 2
18 * Marantha

Good but take care!

Start: 2.5m L of C&W

  1. 15m (19) 'Steep' orange wall to ledge under roof

  2. 25m (17) Directly up through roof and up wall above

FA: G Dowden, R Taylor, 1982

19 Aid 65m 2
19 * Corinthian


Start: Start as for Maranatha

  1. 15m (19) As for M for 8m then left up slab to ledge

  2. 25m (16) Diagonally up ramp to wall & up

FA: B Zemek, W Davenport, 1971

19 Trad 40m 2
20 * Armageddon

Better than it looks!

Start: 15m left of 'Corinthian'

  1. 21m (13) Up through choss, over bulge & up slab

  2. 15m (13) Left to wall & up cave, bush anchors on left

  3. 13m (13) Up corner

FA: J Pickard, T Tierney, 1966

13 Trad 49m 3
21 * Bon Voyage

Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base

FA: M Law, A Penney, 1979

21 Sport 60m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 * The Athenian

Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)

  1. 21m (21) Up right hand corner and up left into corner

  2. 24m (21) Right to cave, hard move to arete and up

  3. 12m (-) Up off ledge to obvious topout

FA: J Ewbank, R Reynolds, 1967

21 Trad 57m 3
23 *** The Spartan

Classic roof traverse above great space

Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A

  1. 16m (14) Thrutch up easy corner then up & left to belay at bottom of offwidth. Manky carrot + medium cams and nuts belay

  2. 24m (16) What you're here for. Up offwidth in left corner, carrot at top then traverse into space. If you're tall, watch your helmet at the squeeze. Up at chimney, belay there on gear or 2x carrots on ledge outside.

  3. 10m (14) Up and crank over side of offwidth, tree belay

FA: John Ewbank (Second freaked)

16 Mixed 50m 3, 1
24 * Twister

Hostile, good second pitch

Start: At yellow crack on opposite wall to Spartan (8m L)

  1. 25m (19) Up easy but soft yellow cracks, out left & diagonally up to ledge with bolt anchors

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse left to scoop & up

FA: M Law, R McGregor, 1977

19 Trad 50m 2
25 Brydens Route

As for the Plunge but traverse right and up through roof

FA: Ivalenta/ G Child?

22 Sport 40m
26 *** The Plunge

Interesting and varied climbing.

Start: Start at a rotten groove beneath a big, black wall.

FA: M Law, G Child, 1980

23 Sport 40m
27 * Corridor Metaphysics 20 Trad 45m
28 That 15 Trad 61m
29 It 13 Trad 52m
30 What 18 Trad 55m
31 Renegade 23 Trad 61m
32 Divine Right 12 Trad 20m
33 Valhalla 5 Trad 51m
34 Cartwheeling
  1. 15m, 13. Bolts right of Valhalla.

  2. 15m, 19. Bolts up right side of arete. Lower offs on both belays.

  3. Finish up Vinyl Idyl if you must.

FA: Ivan and Bob

19 Sport 30m 3

1.1.6. Eternity Area 38 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

The area between The Executioner and The Bells of Rhymney

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Executioner

Start: As for Joseph. Diagonally right to tree?

FA: W.Moon,B.Cameron, 1979

18 Sport 10m
2 Joslab

The slab 2m left of Joseph. Up past 3 carrots to 2 ring bolts as for Joseph . Small cams in breaks. Head right to the crack at the intermediate ledge.

There is a much harder variant that heads left from the ledge up past two old rusty carrots.

FA: I Valenta, J Montgomery, 2002

18 Mixed 23m, 3
3 *** Easy Tiger

Great commiting climbing on quality rock.

Start: As for Joseph, climb the original first pitch, instead of going left following crack line, head straight middle of the 'pillar'. Find only gear. Then head left onto arete and up until on top of pillar. Rap off 'Vinyl Idl' Bolts.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

24 R Trad 25m
4 * Joseph

Start: 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

  1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

  2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

FA: J Ewbank, E Saxby, 1964

14 Trad 56m 2
5 Vinyl Idl

Start rom DBB above the top of Cart Wheeling. Follow left arete up past 5 bolts and a ring to DBB on top.

FA: W Baird, M Law, 1978

19 Sport 23m, 6
6 * D-Vinyl

Start 4m left of Renegade.

FA: T.Sorenson,M.Law, 1979

23 Trad 25m
7 Warwick's Effort

FA: W.Payton, 1987

24 Trad 25m
8 Mary

Probably not worth doing, but it does sound like an adventure.

Start: 4m left of J.Scramble to wide scrubby crack.

  1. 21m (14) The flake. Looks like it would be much better after some gardening.

  2. 28m (14) L and up. Right to ledge. Take care!

FA: J.Ewbank,E.Saxby, 1964

14 R Trad 49m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Right Wall of Eternity

A few moves up Eternity, then right and up long face. Old bolts.

Start: As for Eternity.

FA: M.Law, M.Stacey, 1987

25 Trad 25m
10 *** The Eternity / Yorkshire Crack (P1)

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not 'Australia'. 'Fantastic' climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast straight up the crack, jamming through a low crux. Follow the crack left to a rest, then back right to an awkward finish. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

FA: J Moore (Pitch 2: J Ewbank 1967, FFA: M Law 1978)

18 Trad 52m
11 Left Wall of Eternity

Start: 6m left of Eternity.

FA: Unknown, 2000

27 Trad 28m
12 * The Pharaoh

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth!

FA: J.Ewbank,K.Carter, 1965

15 Trad 33m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * S.S.C.C.1

Start: 4m left of Pharoah.

Arete to ringbolt, right at tree level to Pharoah, and up. Lower off chains at top of P, 60m rope reaches ground.

FA: J.Worrall,R.Templeton, 1966

14 Trad 25m
14 ** S.S.C.C.3

Rebolted Oct 2010, and loweroff added to eliminate the runout doddle finish (it's a 30m pitch if you continue past the new anchors to the top).

Start: As for SSCC1.

A slippery idea for a climb. As for SSCC1, but continue up the arete, onto easy ground to top of block, then arete behind.

FA: M Law, G Bradbury

22 Sport 33m
15 ** The Carthaginian

Start: Corner 2m left of SSCC1.

Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

15 Trad 33m
16 * Cruel and Unusual

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

24 Trad 25m
17 *** Psychopath

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

17 Trad 28m
18 ** Psychotic

Direct line above 1st half of Psychopath

Start: As for Psychopath

FA: I Valenta, J Montgomery, 2002

19 Mixed 25m, 3
19 Neurotic

Start: As for P.

  1. 18m (-) As for P. to traverse. Left to arete and cave.

  2. 18m (15) Overhang on right. Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall (DS.M.Law), 1966

15 Trad 36m 2
20 Neurotic Direct Start 18 Unknown 6m
21 * Neil Diamond Syndrome

Start up Neurotic Direct Start and follow the line of rings.

FA: V. Peterson, 2006

20 Sport 25m
22 ** The Phantom

Start: Corner 4m left of N.

  1. 21m (13) Undercut, then corner to cave.Traverse left to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) Overhang and wall.

FA: J Ewbank, K Carter

14 Trad 31m 2
23 * The Scull Cave Eliminate

Start: As for the 'Phantom' 4m, left then up to the end of the traverse.

FA: J.Smoothy,S.Moon, 1985

19 Trad 30m
24 * Synthetic Threshold

Start: 0.5m left of P.

  1. 18m (16) Diagonally left and over roof.Right to arete and up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) As for P.

FA: G.Weigand,R.Thompson, 1980

16 Trad 28m 2
25 The Banshee

Start: 4m left of ST. On the right wall of 'The Animal' gully.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

14 R Trad 36m
26 * Café Racer

Retrobolted by the FA in Oct 2010 to make it a "classic sport route".

Start: As for 'The Banshee'.

FA: M.Law, M.Closs, 1979

17 Sport 35m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 * Café Debris

Start: As for 'The Banshee'.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1985

23 Trad 20m
28 The Animal

Start: Left side of the gully. Chimneys.

FA: Ewbank,Worrall,Quinlan,Carter,Smith, 1965

12 Trad 35m
29 ** The Messiah's Exit

Starts on the left wall about 10m up the first pitch of The Animal. Tricky crack and roof.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1965

18 Trad 34m
30 ** Judas

It is serious if done the original way. But if you skip the boulder problem start and finish up The Messiah's Exit, it is a well protected classic.

Start: 1m left of The Animal.

FA: J Ewbank, K Carter

19 R Trad 32m
31 *** Judas-Messiah Connection

Lower offs added 26/5/2012

19 Trad 35m
32 The Mortuary

Start: Roof capped corner 2.5m left of 'Judas'.

  1. 15m (-) Corner to roof. Left (crawl) to nose and ledge.

  2. 24m (14) Wall on right.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Davis, 1965

14 R Trad 39m 2
33 Morgue Wall

Bad fixed pro!

Start: 1m left of M.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1984

24 R Trad 33m
34 Avago

Start: Jagged crack left of Mortuary.

FA: J.Ewbank, J.Davis, 1965

14 Trad 33m
35 *** Avago (Ya Mug)

FA: I Valenta, J Montgomery

17 Trad 35m
36 * Pure S

Start: Short steep corner above 'Avago'.

FA: M.Law,C.Reece, 1977

20 Trad 11m
37 The Gates of Eden

Start: Corner 4m left of A.

  1. 24m (14 M1) To roof, aid arounf lip and up.

  2. 18m (- M3) Aid, then free up wall. Keep right. Poor Rock!

FA: B.Osbourne,R.Reynolds, 1967

14 M3 Aid 42m 2
38 * The Bells of Rhymney

Start: 5m left again.

  1. 12m (21) Corner,left to arete. Mantle. 'Steep' wall to ledge.

  2. 28m (-) Up to the right.

FFA: M,Law

FA: (Osbourne,Reynolds), 1967

22 Trad 40m 2

1.1.7. Flake Crack Area 49 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

This would have to be the most popular area at Mt Piddington and covers climbs between Tombstone Wall and Skypilot.

Descent Notes:

There is an abseil anchor at the top of Angular Crack.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tombstone Wall

Up crack, right up to break. Right to arete and up.

Direct start is 24.

Start: Thin crack 6m left of 'The Bells of Rhymney'

FA: J Ewbank, J Davis

15 Trad 30m
2 Tombstone Wall Direct Start 24 Mixed 5m, 1
3 Rogue Cop

Start: As for TW to break. Up staying left of the arete.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1988

18 Trad 30m
4 * Centrepiece

Start: As for TW. Then up and left.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Weigand, 1981

25 Trad 30m
5 You're So Crass

Start: 2m left of TW.

22 Trad 25m
6 * Angular Crack

Start: Block and corner 3m left of TW.

FA: B Ryan, E Saxby, G Boyd

11 Trad 25m
7 ** Graveyard Wall

Start: 3m left of AC. Rebolted 26/5/2012, 3 bolt brackets if finishing up 'On Edge'

FFA: H.Barber

FA: B.Osbourne, 1967

23 Trad 30m
8 * Graveyard Wall Direct

Climbs the crack then the top head wall above. 6 bolt brackets for the climb and 2 for the anchor. Rebolted 26/5/2012.

24 Mixed 30m, 8
9 Hell Bender

Start: Above AC.

FA: S.Moon, 1984

21 Trad 13m
10 Social Climbing

Start: 3m left of HB.

FA: G.Weigand, 1985

25 Trad 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 *** On Edge

Start: Stunning technical arete 2m left of GW. Bolts are spaced and can be supplemented with trad gear (occasionally)

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1977

22 Sport 28m, 5
12 On Heat

Start: 2m left of On Edge.

FA: T. Atroshenko, 2002

27 Sport 25m
13 Slab left of On Edge 26 Sport 28m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 *** Flake Crack

Has a 3rd pitch but usually only the flake and the crack are done.

Start: 4m left of OE.

FA: J Ewbank, E Saxby

17 Trad 53m
15 Scheel's Effort

Not good.

Start: At chain on Faith.

FA: M.Scheel, 1985

24 Trad 25m
16 Faith

Start: The corner crack left of Flake Crack.

FA: E.Saxby,B.Ryan,G.Boyd, 1964

8 Trad 52m
17 Chastity

The arete to the left.

FA: J.Worrall,F.Hodges, 1966

15 R Trad 14m
18 * Hope

Start: Finger crack 2m left of Chastity. One hard move. Lower off shared chains on top.

FA: E.Saxby,B.Ryan,G.Boyd, 1966

15 Trad 15m
19 Hope 2nd Pitch 12 Unknown 25m
20 Sincerity

Start: 2m left of Hope.

Slab climbing up orange face between Hope and Charity. Step right and finish on Hope when it gets hard. Direct finish is much harder.

FA: J.Worrall,F.Hodges, 1966

13 Mixed 14m, 4
21 Sincerity Direct Finish 21 Sport 16m
22 Charity

Start: 2m left of 'Sincerity'. The wide crack in the corner - take big cams. Somewhat sketchy traverse right at the top to anchor on Faith to lower off.

FA: E.Saxby,B.Ryan,G.Boyd, 1964

13 Trad 14m
23 ** The Fall

As for 'Faith' to second bolt. Step down and traverse left until half way across the wall. Up flakes.

FA: G.Bradbury,S.Moon, 1985

25 Trad 15m
24 This and That

Start: From belay 1 of 'Charity'.

  1. 17m (23) Traverse left. up , around arete and up to ledge.

  2. 19m (-)

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1979

23 Trad 50m 2
25 Wart's Wonder

Traverse right out of cave, to flake, ledge.

Start: From TOtG belay 1.

FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury, 1979

23 Trad 55m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 * Traverse of the Sods

As for Charity tor 10m, left to flake, left to cave.

FFA: K.Carrigan

FA: J.Worrall, J.Ewbank, 1966

22 Trad 55m
27 * Traverse of the Gods

Pumpy. Up Charity to obvious traverse line. Hand traverse left past a bolt about half way, to bolt on wall. Up to cave and and lower offs or head on up past two more pitches.

Most people do the Direct Start to join the traverse and bolt at the half way point.

FA: J.Ewbank, J.Worrall, 1966

18 Mixed 52m, 3
28 Reverse of the Odds

Start: Left of 'Charity'.

FA: M.Baker, 1991

26 Trad 25m
29 * Traverse of the Gods Direct Start 21 Trad 25m
30 ** Rhinocerotic Crack / Traverse of the Gods Super Direct Start

Start: Undercut arete 4m left of Charity. (Marked TGSDS). Stick clip.

FA: S.Moon, 1985

24 Trad 20m
31 * Foreword

You can rap off after pitch 1 (traverse 8m L to tree) for an awesome 1 pitch outing.

Start: 8m left of RC.

  1. 21m (19) A brilliant pitch. Corner, through roof and up to tree/ledge.

  2. 9m (-) Traverse right to blocks.

  3. 18m (-) Wall.

  4. 21m (19) Up the weakness to ledge. Left and up.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

19 Trad 64m 4
32 Preface

Start: 3m left of Forward. 3Pitches.

FA: J.Worrall,J.Ewbank, 1967

19 M4 Aid 55m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
33 * Introduction

3 pitches. Finish up Prologue.

Start: Bulging diagonal 3m left of Preface.

FA: J.Ewbank, J.Worrall, 1967

18 Trad 64m
34 * Rape Machine

Start: As for Introduction then left across wall and up. One wire at the start then all carrots.

FA: G.Robbins, 1980

20 R Sport 15m, 3
35 Erratum

Start: 3m left of I. 3 pitches. Corner. Thin cracks on left arete of I. 'Gully'.

FA: M.Law,G.Bradbury, 1979

19 Trad 65m
36 Prologue

Start: 1m left of E.

  1. 18m (11) Crack to ledge.

  2. 21m (11) Corner to cave, left up to big cave. Traverse right and up to ledge.

  3. 21m (11) Left along ledge, up small black wall into gully.

  4. 23m (11) Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,A.Quinlan,R.Smith, 1965

11 Trad 83m 4
37 Addendum

Start: Thin corner 2m left of Prologue.

  1. 8m (15) Up to tree

  2. 21m (15) Left side of groove to bush.

  3. 18m (15) Left and up to bollard.

  4. 13m (-) Up.

FA: J.Davis, Witham, 1965

15 Trad 64m 4
38 Kim

Start: 2m left of A.

  1. 15m (18) Over bulge to tree?

  2. 20m (18) Follow 'Ballrace' to thread (?), over roof to ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Up.

FA: M.Law,J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1978

18 R Trad 50m 3
39 * Ballrace

3 pitches.

Start: Crack 1m left of Kim.

FA: J.Davis, D.Witham, 1965

17 Trad 73m
40 * Threshold

Start: 1m left of B. 'Arete' and wall.

FA: M.law,K.Carrigan, 1977

22 Trad 21m
41 Arnold's Arete

Start: 'Arete' 8m left again.

  1. 15m (23) Crack to arete.

  2. 20m (16) Right, over bulge and up to ledge.

  3. 25m (-) Crack, slab to the left. Corner.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Weigand, 1981

24 Trad 60m 3
42 *** Orang Utan

Start: 1.5m left of AA.

  1. 26m (16) Chimney.

  2. 21m (16) Up to corner.

  3. 20m (16) Up the corner.

FA: L.Muzzati,G.Davies, 1966

16 Trad 67m 3
43 Mindbender

Start: 7m left of OU.

FA: P.Webber, 1981

21 Trad 15m
44 A Great Day of the Irish

Aid at M3.

Start: 5m left of M.

  1. 15m (-) Aid roof, up the scrubby wall to ledge.

  2. 15m (12) Up right through jungle to join OU.

FA: G.Herbert,G.Prime, 1978

12 M3 Aid 50m 2
45 Photodyamics

Start: Below roofs 4m left of AGDftI. 'Small' corner.

FA: M.Law,G.Harrison, 1979

22 Trad 18m
46 * Brumby

Start: 9m left of P.

  1. 25m (13) Up to tree.

  2. 30m (15) Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

14 Trad 55m 2
47 Spinnaker

Left hand varient to 'Brumby'.

Start: As for B.

  1. 38m (18) Up over fern? To shelf, left to mantle. Wall right of tree to block.

  2. 22m (15) Left to bollard, up wall.

FA: J.Friend,R.Templeton, 1973

18 Trad 60m 2
48 Mustang 16 Trad 55m
49 * Skypilot

Start: Blockt arete about 11m left of Mustang.

FA: K.Carrigan,G.Bradbury.A.Penney, 1978

20 R Trad 40m

1.1.8. Janicepts Area 28 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.253161, -33.604133


The area between Debbie K and Short Wave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Debbie K

Start: 5m left on left side of arete.

FA: M.Law,L.Closs, 1979

21 Trad 28m
2 * Voyage of the Damned

Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaurs traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the ledge up and left of DK. (The same thin crack taken by Psychodrama).

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1979

21 Trad 27m
3 *** Psychodrama

Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Start: Start as for VotD. One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries. Take care.

FA: M.Law, B.Weitlisbach, 1978

22 Trad 45m
4 ** Psychodrama Direct Finish

At half height where P goes left, crimp madly direct.

Start: Start as for 'Psychodrama'.

23 Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** The Minotaur

Start: Start 9m left of P, 2m R of 'Amen Corner'.

  1. 27m (18) Up to traverse line, right, up flake to bolt. Right to traverse line then to arete. Up.

  2. 22m (19) Up left to crack.

FFA: R.Vining

FA: (J.Ewbank (in rage),J.Worrall.), 1966

19 Trad 50m 2
6 * Melodrama

Climb the face 2-3m R of 'Amen Corner'.

Start: 2m R of 'Amen Corner' (as for Minotaur).

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1990

24 Trad 35m
7 Edge of Reality

Start: From belay 1 of 'The Minotaur'. Right to flake and up.

FA: J.Friend,M.Law, 1973

19 R Trad 24m
8 *** Amen Corner

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope required).

FA: Bryden Allen, M Peddler, 1964

18 Trad 30m
9 *** Risky Chicken

Good thin face climbing protected by good thin gear. Climb Janicepts to the height of its pod then move slightly right and straight up wall above following a thin crack feature.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

22 Trad 30m
10 *** The Janicepts

The splitter line 3m L of 'Amen Corner', initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains.

FA: John Ewbank (one rest), 1966

FFA: M. Law, 1974

21 Trad 27m
11 ** Whores Du Combat

Not great rock!

Start: 6m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law, 1991

27 Sport 27m
12 * Daphne

Start a few metres left of Whores du Combat, up a move, traverse left and up. Definately not R, rings all the way (rebolted 2006)

FA: M.Law, 1983

26 R Sport 30m
13 ** Old Stealthbelly

Start: As for 'Thin Time'. The right hand route.

FA: G.Child,G.Bradbury, 1990

28 Sport 35m
14 ** Desiree

Start: As for TT.

FA: M.Law,G.Child, 1990

25 Sport 25m
15 ** Thin Time

Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Start: 26m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law,M.Johnston,W.Baird, 1978

22 Sport 24m
16 * Starkosis

Start: Left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

21 Trad 23m
17 Big Bad Banksia Man

Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of 'The Kraken'.

Start: As for 'The Kraken'.

FA: A.Farquar, 1993

25 Trad 26m
18 *** The Kraken

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send.

Start: Corner 60m left of 'Skypilot'. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base.

NOTE: Dodgy anchors REPLACED on 06/07/2013 - P.T

FA: John Ewbank, John Worrall, 1967

21 Trad 40m
19 The Bugger

Start: 2m left of The Kraken.

FA: J.Worrall,J.Ewbank, 1966

14 Trad 45m
20 The Bastard

Start: Wide broken chimney 10m left of K.

  1. 12m (12) To ledge and tree.

  2. 33m (12) Bridge tree to traverse left, up left past scrubby ledge.

  3. 13m (12) 'Gully'.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Cameron,J.Davis, 1965

12 Trad 58m 3
21 Poverty Line

Grey groove to arete and up. Corner and gully.

Start: 5m left of TB.

FA: M.Law,W.Baird, 1978

20 Trad 45m
22 * Vanishing Point

Up. right to rest. Up, then to arete and stance. Up.

Start: 9m left again.

FA: M.Law,J.Ewbank,A.Penney, 1979

23 Trad 45m
23 Voodoo

3 pitches. Aid.

Start: 4m left. Vegetated.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard, 1967

15 M1 Aid 45m
24 Taboo

There is usually a waterfall trickling down the slabs. About 20m off the ground, there are two parallel cracks a few metres right of the waterfall. The second pitch of 'Taboo' takes the left crack.

Start: Start 3m R of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (- M1) Up to roof and get over it using small trees for aid. Move R then up to small ledge beneath left crack.

  2. 30m (15 M1) Aid to get started, then up the obvious crack to the top.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard,K.Hore, 1967

15 M1 Aid 50m 2
25 Idiot

Start: Start 10m left of 'Taboo' (7m left of the waterfall).

  1. 36m (-) Dirty wall and up to the pillar leaning against the headwall.

  2. 16m (19) Up the headwall past 1 bolt.

FA: (J.Ewbank,Carter), 1965

19 Mixed 52m 2, 1
26 The Piker

Start: As for I. 16m, down, traverse left then up.

FA: Ewbank,Carter, 1965

11 Trad 52m
27 Short Wave

4m left of I anchor. Middle of the wall, corner and wall.

Start: As for I.

FA: Weigand,Knight, 1981

22 R Trad 17m
28 * Cartogen 15 Unknown 35m

1.1.9. Hocus Pocus Area 18 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.253682, -33.601834

Description:© (mjw)

If you do a route which tops out in this area, the quickest descent is the rap chains above Curtain Call (30m abseil - one 50m rope will suffice but be ready for an easy downclimb and don't go off the ends of the rope!). If you are trying to access this abseil anchor from above, take EXTREME CARE. It is a very exposed 20m downclimb (grade 2?), and any fall would almost certainly end on the ground 40m below. Consider roping up for this downclimb, or even hiking back along the top towards Horne's Point for a safer descent. This abseil descent should probably be more safely equipped, if the ethics police can be convinced.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Imbecile

Start: Approximately 25m to the left of 'Idiot'. Left side of the buttress.

  1. 9m (11) Easy to tree.

  2. 27m (11) Up, mantle, right and up to ledge and tree.

  3. 16m (11) Left and up.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

11 Trad 52m 3
2 Infidel

Start: Corner 5m left again.

  1. 27m (16) Corner, roof and wall to rest. Wall and ramp.

  2. 25m (12) Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,R.Reynolds, 1967

16 Trad 52m 2
3 No Static

Start: 7m left again. Right of arete.

FA: I.Rath,N.Mahunt,V.Burke, 1986

15 Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * Hocus Pocus

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best.

Start: 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab.

Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

  1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

  2. Up slab, veering left and up.

Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes.

FA: K.Westren, M. Hailstone, 1964

8 Mixed 49m, 15
5 Ra
  1. As for Hocus Pocus to top of initial slab. Over bulge, up slab to Hocus Pocus belay.

  2. Head diagonally right to top.

FA: H.Luxford, 1977

13 Trad 44m
6 El Dingle

Start: As for Curtain Call.

  1. 24m (14) Up to ledge then delicately left on slab past two manky carrots.

  2. 30m (14) Left into gully then trend right up arete past bolt to rap station.

FA: J.Lawrence, J.Woods, 1965

15 Mixed 52m 2, 3
7 ** El Dingle Direct 14 Trad 33m
8 Slab Right of Withdrawal

Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline.

FA: Unknown, 2000

19 R Trad 48m
9 * Withdrawal

Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up.

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

FA: M.Law, G.Harrison, 1979

20 R Trad 48m
10 * Riding Shotgun

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

FA: A.Penney, L.Closs, M.Stacey, 1987

21 Sport 30m
11 ** Curtain Call

Start: Crack system to the left of Hocus Pocus.

FA: J Ewbank, J Worrall

18 Trad 49m
12 Bumbly Bites Back

Start: 3m left of Curtain Call.

FA: C.Sloss, 1987

20 Sport 30m
13 El Bungle

Start: 5m left of CC.

FA: A.Penney, 1978

18 Trad 17m
14 Beginners' Steps


Start: 9m left of 'El Bungle'. Dirty crack.

  1. 30m (16) Easy to steep wall, right to block.

  2. 22m (21) Wall left of arete, then around arete and up.

FA: Law,Grey,Smoothy, 1979

21 R Trad 52m 2
15 * The Second Last Act

Start: As for BS.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Moore,J.Worrall, 1966

22 M2 Trad 52m
16 ** Quits

Start: From BS anchor 1. Leftwards.

FA: M.Law, 1978

21 R Trad 65m
17 * Stage Struck

Start: As for TSLA.

FA: S.Moon,G.Bradbury, 1985

23 M1 R Trad 50m
18 * Wrapt

Start: 5m left of TSLA.

FA: M Law, G Bradbury, 1984

23 R Trad 50m 2

1.1.10. Cottage Boulder 12 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.253243, -33.602499

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Disinclined

Start: Traverse from left to right.

FA: G.Bradbury,A.Penney, 1980

21 Sport 45m
2 * Boys Buckets and Bumps

Start: As for D. Up Groove and corner.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

25 Trad 30m
3 * Cant

Start: To middle of traverse then up.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1991

25 Sport 33m
4 ** Flaming Youth

Start: Right end of the wall.

FA: I.Anger, 1980

23 Sport 35m
5 *** Leanings

Start: As for FY then up. Rebolted 2004.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Weigand, 1982

24 Sport 30m
6 * Attenuation

Start: Around right from L. on ledge.

FA: M.Law,G.Bradbury, 1979

22 R Trad 40m
7 Talking Italian

Start: As for AC to break, then left and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1984

19 Trad 40m
8 * Abra Cadabra

Take big gear.

Start: Crack 13m right of A.

FA: J.Worrall,.Devereux, 2000

14 Trad 40m
9 Outrage

Start: 11m right of AC, small orabge corner under roof.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

17 R Trad 35m
10 * Cracked

Start: 27m right of O. Opposite the main cliff.

FA: M.Law,L.Brady, 1978

17 Trad 15m
11 Foot in Mouth

Start: Right of C.

13 R Trad 13m
12 Kiss the Dog

Start: Just left of the boulder descent route. Take care!

10 R Trad 30m

1.1.11. Solomon Area 31 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sidetracks

Start: As for 'Solomon' for most of 1st pitch. Right to belay on arete. take care! Up the arete joining 'Quits'. Finish up Q.

FA: W.Baird, 1981

24 Trad 50m
2 *** Solomon

There's 1 bolt at the first belay and 4 on the 2nd pitch - so take brackets if you don't know how to use cams.

Start: Start approx 28m left of 'Quits' beneath major right-angled corner.

  1. 20m (15) Corner to belay on slab beneath main corner.

  2. 31m (20) Stunning orange corner then left around roof. Chossy easy corner above.

FFA: J.Friend

FA: (J.Ewbank,A.Campbell), 1965

20 Mixed 61m 2, 4
3 * Tipster

Start: As for S, past diagonal crack (Gemini) on left. Step left and up. Slight left and up. About 5m left of the arete.

FA: W.Baird, 1982

22 Trad 45m
4 Orion

The face left of 'Solomon' pitch 2 and right of 'Tipster' with a few old carrots. Why the route description is never put between those routes is anyone's guess.

Start: Start as for 'Solomon'.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

25 Trad 56m
5 *** Gemini

Nowadays the leader can clean their own gear off pitch 1 by finishing at the anchors of Skinless Chickens, on the arete.

Start: Start as for 'Solomon'.

  1. 25m (19) Up Solomon's corner for 8m then take the left diagonal crack to blocks. DRB rap anchor.

  2. 26m (19) Often not bothered with. Left up the blocks, right to arete. Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

19 Trad 52m 2
6 ** Skinless Chicken

The right side of the arete- Flight Line for the masses.

21 Sport 27m, 9
7 ** Flight Line

Start: 6m left of S. Left of the arete to arete. Up.

FA: W.Baird, 1982

22 Trad 54m
8 * Mossy Rections

Start: 1m right of 'Genesis'. Bolts.

  1. 25m (24) 8 carrots to ring anchor.

  2. 25m (24) Left and up wall past 3 bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Law, 1989

24 Mixed 50m 2, 11
9 ** Genesis

Best option is to link this into 'Cardiac Arete' for a real classic.

Start: Twin cracks.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

16 R Trad 58m
10 * Fibrillation

Start: Corner directly under CA.

FA: W.Williams,G.Wurth, 1986

18 Trad 40m
11 * Cardiac Arete

Best option is to start up 'Genesis' and finish up this route.

Start: Left of 'Genesis' at short wide crack.

  1. 20m (17) Crack, arete to 'Genesis' belay.

  2. 18m (17) 'Arete' with bolts.

FA: D.Fletcher,W.Davenport, 1970

17 Trad 38m 2
12 Kokoda Trail

Start: Short chimney and gully to top.

10 Trad 35m
13 Cheese'n'Chalk

Start: 6m left of KT.

FA: M.Law,J.Smoothy, 1978

16 R Trad 28m
14 Pkea

Start: As for CnC. Trees, gully etc.

FA: W.Williams,I.Peterson, 1971

13 R Trad 33m
15 * Absolutely Curtains

Start: Thin corner.

FA: G.Child, 1978

22 Trad 18m
16 Fat Freddy

Start: 8m left of AC.

FA: G.Weigand,B.Jenkins, 1980

13 Trad 15m
17 Zot

Start: 2m left of Pkea.

FA: G.Weigand, 1980

19 Trad 45m
18 Babylon

Start: 9m left of Z. Scrubby chimney.

FA: W.Kilham,B.Smith, 1964

10 R Trad 41m
19 Easy Street 17 Trad 40m
20 Evans

Start: 11m left of B.

FA: A.Campbell,B.Osbourne,J.Pickard, 1966

13 Trad 52m
21 * The Coffin Climb

Start: Thin chimney in corner left of E. 3 pitches. Take Care!

FA: J.Ewbank,D.Moss, 1966

11 R Trad 64m
22 The Sexton

Start: 5m left again. 2 pitches.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

16 Trad 55m
23 The End

Start: 48m left of Sexton. Scrubby corner.

FA: J.Ewbank,C.Monteath, 1970

18 Trad 55m
24 The Last Act Direct Start 14 M3 Trad 25m
25 The Last Act

Start: 'Small' corner right of 'Encore'.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Giles,V.Kennedy, 1969

17 M2 Trad 70m
26 Applause

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

20 R Trad 40m
27 Encore

Start: 4m left of TLA. Corner.3 pitches.

FA: J.Ewbank,V.Kennedy, 1968

18 R Trad 60m
28 ** One Up for the Wogs

Start: Roofs 10 m before the waterfall. Through low roof with piton and gear to ledge. Up and left into the line and up to chimney then through and right to the top

FFA: One of the Cosseys

FA: J.Ewbank, B.Allen, 1969

FA: Macciza. free with rests., 2006

23 Mixed 70m 3, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Closed Project

Orange face/blunt arette 4m right of Space Face

Sport Project
30 Space Face

Rap in route. From opposite first Piddo carpark walk 5min down Witches Glen trail , turn left at sundeck cave then leave track above second big prow (first prow has highline anchor) Fix a rapline and rap 18m off DRB down line of FH's to semi hanging belay with 2 FH and U-bolt. Clip the odd FH on the way down to stay in. Great exposure and a nice little ledge for rope.

FFA: E . Wells , T . Kluzniac, 2014

18 Sport 20m, 12
31 The Masterpiece

This route will take you back to the Hornes Point descent gully!

FA: J Ewbank, J Worrall, 1967

20 M4 Trad 850m

1.2. Boronia Point 51 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258505, -33.602979

Description:© (aca_admin)

On the eastern side of Mt Piddington the main area is actually Ferris Cave and was once a popular destination for walkers. Access down the Hornes Pt fire trail, turn left at signs and then right again on the Ferris Cave track (straight ahead takes you to the Boronia Pt lookout which is directly above the crag). The first area you arrive at coming this way is the Ancient Mariner Buttress.

1.2.1. Main Wall (Ferris Cave) 29 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258541, -33.602901

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Klaus's A1

Start: Ugly metal waste sticking out of the roof!

AID:A1 Aid
2 Sprouts Mexicane

Sharp Jugs,

Start: Lefthand route on the main wall.

FA: S.Bell,C.Vandereydt, 1995

23 Sport 15m
3 * Sydney Rose

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

24 Sport 12m
4 ** Slipping on Something Comfortable

FA: M.Baker, 1992

27 Sport 25m
5 * Eureka

FA: L.Trihey,J.Smoothy, 1989

23 R Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Euchre

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Sport 22m
7 ** Eucalyptus (Link-up)

Link up. Starts up Lyptus for 4 bolts, extend the draw and move left into Euchre. Small runout but good holds. Better warm up option than Lyptus and still fun.

22 Sport 20m
8 *** Lyptus

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes. Very popular. The fixed biners on the anchor are getting pretty rusty and are not in an ideal spot (they pinch the rope against the rock), so take some long draws for lowering off.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Sport 23m, 8
9 *** Grape Hour

One of the best 25's in the mtns, enjoy! Bad bolts replaced 13-12-2006, hopefully the strange position of the 4th will be fixed next rebolt. Start at the enormous permanent cairn. Stickclip essential.

FA: Mike Law, 1994

25 Sport 22m, 8
10 ** Grape Power (Link-up)

Links the start of 'Grape Hour' into the finish of 'Grey Power'. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

25 Sport 20m, 8
11 * Grey Power

Start 3m R of the enormous cairn of Grape Hour. It's advisable to bring a small-med cam, or a boltplate to clip the carrot, so that the leader doesn't slam into the rope working the hard moves to the 2nd bolt. Very tough thin moves past the first 2 bolts then the right side of the scoop. Most people step L at the last bolt but the glued up flake direct finish goes too. The anchor is a bit bodgy.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

FA: john smoothy, 1989

26 Sport 25m, 8
12 ** Veteran's Affair

Start as for Grey Power (if you think the start feels hard it used to have a jug...). After the 2nd bolt veer R (3rd bolt often gets skipped). After the 5th bolt most people veer back L and basically rejoin Grey Power to get past the little roof before spanning back to the R.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1997

27 Sport 20m
13 Dont Believe the Hype (Link-up)

Start up Veterans, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Dont Believe.

FA: N.Hoette

30 Sport 25m
14 *** Anuerysm (Link-up)

A superb power endurance climb that links the start of 'Onions' into the upper half of Veterans Affairs. Start as for 'Onions' and thug your way to the second bolt, now move left and up via the 2 bolt link up. The moves through this section are strong but measured and help maintain that nice warm pump. Having now joined Veterans you punch through a couple of tricky moves before a good rest. The linkage crux now awaits somewhere ahead.

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2006

27 Sport 20m
15 ** Onions Original Version 26 M1 Aid 18m
16 *** Onions

From the ground via the communal start the left, used to be 26.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1989

27 Sport 20m
17 ** Onions (Extended Dance Mix)

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of 'Onions' keep chugging, move right and up and finish at the anchors of 'Don't Believe the Tripe'.

Kim Carrigan did the original extension before DBtT existed.

28 Sport 25m
18 ** Mudeye (Link-up)

Links 'Onions' into Dont Believe...

FA: S.Atkins, 2000

29 Sport 20m
19 *** Don't Believe the Tripe

FA: S.Johns, 1993

29 Sport 30m
20 ** Mechanical Animals

Oz's first 34! Since relegated to a tame 33.

Start: Squeezed in between Dont Believe...and 'Tripe'.

FA: Ben Cossey

33 Sport 20m
21 ** Tripe

FA: M.Baker, 1992

30 Sport 30m
22 Camel Toe

Start: As for previous climb. Then up.

FA: B.Littleford, 2006

29 Sport 25m
23 ** Green Eggs and Ham

Traverse. Back jump to clean.

Start: As for the preceding 4 routes but traverse the lip to the right.

FA: M.Baker, 1992

28 Sport 35m
24 Project - Zac

Project starting up Big Wednesday then heading left through roof, joins Green Eggs at the crux and finishing ...probably up Tripe but maybe Mechanical Animals! The draws have been left on it for at least 5 years, so its probably fair to say the project is open and the draws are booty.

Sport Project 30m
25 Project - Ben

As for Big Wednesday, then up through the bowl and into Tripe.

Sport Project 30m
26 ** Big Wednesday

Start: In the grotto about 6m to the right of Dont Believe...

FA: M.Baker, 1994

30 Sport 27m
27 Lee's Traverse

Up Big Wednesday then right and up.

FA: L.Cossey, 2011

Sport 20m
28 Offal

Walking past big wednesday about 80m

23 Sport 20m
29 Open Slather

Walk about 80m past Big Wednesday.

23 Sport 20m

1.2.2. Ancient Mariner Buttress 12 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.258161, -33.603224


Easy climbing on a short grey buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kitty Gobsmacker

Scary and dodgy but with nice babylonian start.

Start: 10m L of 'Cowboy Clip' up little face to top.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

18 X Trad 12m
2 * Cowboy Clip LH Start 22 Sport 10m
3 * Cowboy Clip

Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

FA: M.Portman, 1992

21 Sport 10m
4 Silent Rage

Don't blow the 4th clip - people have hit the tree.

FA: A.Bull,A.Dunbar,S.Wythe, 1992

25 Sport 15m
5 Silent Rage (Crunch's Variant) 23 Unknown 12m
6 Mr. Curly

Start: Short juggy corner.

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

17 Sport 10m
7 Diana Ross

FA: V.Kondos, 1994

21 Sport 15m
8 Albatross

Start as for 'ancient mariner',then leftwards past carrots to anchor in the middle of the wall.

FA: F.Lumsden,M.Whitehouse, 1989

19 Sport 16m
9 * Ancient Mariner

Right hand route on the mini wall, up to chain anchor on the arete.

FA: B.Junge,M.Portman, 1994

19 Sport 15m
10 Creature Without a Brain

Start: Climbs just right of the arete.

FA: M.Portman., 2000

17 Sport 15m
11 Squashed Parrot

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

FA: M.Pekin,L.McManus, 1989

14 Sport 18m
12 * Neil's worthless thing with the missing bolt

FA: N.Crabb, 1992

18 Sport 12m

1.2.3. Lower Cliff 3 routes in Cliff

Sport and Unknown

Lower cliff accessed via rap point below Ancient Mariner Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Permanent Shiver 20 Unknown 20m
2 Pop the Question

This is the arete on the left end of the ledge. Its mixed so you need bolt plates and a little gear!

FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke, J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Sport 35m
3 Naughty Little Monkey

You need some bolt plates for this but it can be done just on the rings!

FA: M.Bennis, 2000

23 Sport 30m

1.2.4. Alphabet Wall 7 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.259655, -33.602229


This little wall is between Boronia main wall and boycetown.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Battery Chicken (A) 21 Sport 15m
2 Pixie Drink (B) 19 Sport 15m
3 Freakin 'n Groovin 23 Sport 15m
4 * C 23 Sport 25m
5 * Born Again Losers (E) 25 Sport 8m
6 F 24 Sport 8m
7 Gee (G) 24 Sport 8m

1.3. Renitz Pass 18 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.253517, -33.599369

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ablaze

climb as for D.Q for three bolts then improbable moves straight up through roof to orange streak headwall and excellent crux . Two hands over the very top for the tick! Bring extendable draws for face and roof.

FFA: E Wells, 2013

27 Sport 35m, 13
2 ** Drag Queen

Up detached block to traverse right up face, through largest section of roof to headwall. Very distinct boulder problem in roof. Lots of 120cm slings after block. Commiting move to higher jug left on headwall to clip last bolt. A 70mtr rope will get you to the ground.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

27 Sport 34m, 17
3 Flognoid

Commiting start to carrot (why?!) leads to great climbing (heady, reachy, pumpy) on experimental shaped U-bolts. Or maybe they're V-bolts?

FA: M Stacey, M Law, B Maddison, 1998

22 Sport 20m
4 ** 62 West Wallaby Street

Thin start, best to take a wire to help clip first carrot. Bring bolt plates x12

FA: A.Farquar

26 Sport 24m
5 project

Closed project, line of rings leading up and left from Maurice Road start.

Sport Project 25m
6 Maurice Road

Start is marked and is 5m R of 54WWS.

  1. 30m (21)

  2. 15m (? - easy)

21 Trad 45m 2
7 * Pleasant street
  1. 12m (24) Traverse jugs to arete, up past move to hands-free rest then crux. Tricky onsight.

  2. 20m (23) Another pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face moments and secret holds over hanging arete.

FFA: E.Wells, R.Basset, 2014

24 Sport 32m 2, 18
8 *** Snot Rocket Science

30mtr right of Maurice Road, stickclip first bolt, pull through large holds in roof onto wall.

FA: M Law, 2003

27 Sport 25m
9 Saul

Finger crack in corner 10m R of SRS.

  1. 23m (17)

  2. 27m (?)

17 Trad 50m 2
10 Trad Terminator 21 Unknown 40m
11 Trad Exterminator

The vague arete on left of the wall. Thinking of Mike climbing this on trad will make you cringe. On bolts, it's quite nice climbing.

FA: 2003

22 Sport 30m
12 * M.A.R.K. #1

A series of mantles leads to the bit you want to climb -- the scoopy overhung top.

23 Sport 30m
13 Submarine XI

Start is marked. There's a carrot up there at like 15m.

21 Trad 50m
14 U-Boat

6m R of the top of the stairs. Seems to be red-tagged, but it's been done.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw

25 Sport 25m
15 * Renegade Ways

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

21 Sport 25m
16 High Kick'n Chicks

5m R of RW.

FA: V Peterson, 2003

23 Sport 30m
17 * Indecision

Start on yellow wall under bulges 7m R of HKC. Athletic moves through roof to a moment of indecision... left or right? Both options are bolted. Then an 8m runout for no good reason, and a nice finish.

24 Sport 30m
18 ?

FA: 1999


1.4. Corroboree Walls 35 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.249682, -33.598466

Approach:© (secretary)

In summer months the south faces of these buttresses get the sun until about 9am, making them great for a glorious sunny romp in the cool of the morning.

1.4.1. Access Gully Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.247083, -33.598527

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown Gridbolt for kids?

Left of Arete. Obvious line of grid bolts about 1m spacing up the gully.

10 Sport
2 Unknown arete 19 Sport 22m
3 Glabrate

Start: Lefthand arete. To the right of the access gully.

FA: Lindsay?, 2000

17 Sport 25m
4 Claw Tortoise 19 Sport 22m
5 * Uncontrollable Urge

FA: L,M & G. Garben, 2000

23 Sport 22m
6 Nappy Action

FA: L,M & G.Garben, 1999

18 Sport 22m
7 Nantucket Sleigh Ride

Corner crack to ledge. Up wall with little pro!

FA: C.Dawson,P.Morris,B.Maddison,R,Parkin, 1973

10 R Trad 48m

1.4.2. Fashion Area 7 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.247216, -33.598641

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Claw Tortoise 19 Sport 18m
2 Project?

Project left of Fashion. Don't touch the arete.

Using the arete makes it a reachy 23? 24?

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Fashion

L-off + 1st ring replaced 2004

Start: As a sport route has lower off at 15m. You can traverse left from here to a belay and then carry on to the top with very minimal gear!

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1983

23 Sport 50m
4 ** Work Injury

FA: D.Taylor, 2005

24 Sport 15m
5 * Queen Bitch

Start: The steep, sandy flake. As a sport route it has lower offs at 15m. You can continue another 30 the top with minimal (no) gear! Rebolted 2004

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1983

21 Sport 15m
6 Pushover Pinnacle

Start: The leaning Pinnacle to the right of the Bushranger Cave. Climbs the pinnacle in a clockwise direction, then to the left to top of the cliff.

FA: M.Law,K,Roseberry, 1975

17 Trad 45m
7 Pushover Pinnacle Direct

The direct sport start to Pushover Pinnacle. Goes about grade 20 with 4 bouldery moves at the beginning (well protected); then a sandy run out adventure to the top.

19 Sport 20m, 9

1.4.3. Black Gold Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** White Light

Start: Corner 20m right of the cave. 3 pitches.

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall, 1974

19 Trad 45m
2 * Atilla

A classic ramp?

Start: 6m to the right of 'White Light'.

  1. 18m (-) Up the flake to belay.

  2. 24m (15) Up 2m to traverse line, up to cave, up to belay on ranp.

  3. 20m (-) Up the ramp.

  4. 24m (-) Up to the chimney, into the back and through to the other side. up.

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall, 1974

15 R Trad 86m 4
3 * Black Gold

Start: As for 'Attila', then out right to the arete past some carrots then up the arete past a few more carrots.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1987

24 Trad 30m
4 * Bubbling Crude

High 'n' Wild's 50m abseil! Was probably good once.

Start: Rap in to hanging belay. You cant miss the top.

FA: M.Stacey,B.Maddison, 1997

23 R Trad 45m
5 ** Long Distance Relationships

The line of u bolts from base of Buttress intersecting Texas Tea traverse at 15mtrs and continuing up face. A strenous and extremely chossy first pitch.This route shares 6m of climbing with Screen Gems however if your following carrots your off route. Has gained a few grades after it was mentioned it shares screen gems crux and gained three extra bolts (20/11/14) after J.Smoothy tactfully convinced route developer that broken ankles and shattered shins and knees are not in vogue and never have been. Climb in one pitch (recomended!)from ground with 20 draws (a couple of long ones too) or use DUBB at 15mtrs and multi. Pull mantle crux and dance on up for ever. Take one or two #0.4 camalots for break near top (essential). DUBB @ top.

FFA: Evan Wells . Jacindi Jackson, 2013

21 Mixed 50m, 20
6 ** Texas Tea

Apparently a hard onsight. the arete.

Start: Traverse in through the jungle for miles or rap in to semi hanging belay.

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Stacey, 1986

24 Sport 55m

1.4.4. Jungle One 3 routes in Cliff

Trad and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Screen Gems

Nice name? Big and Interesting!

Start: As for jungle bash of previous route. To short arete,up through bulge past a couple of carrots. Up.

FA: G.Bradbury, M.Baker, 2000

22 Trad 50m
2 * Roark's Drift

Start: As for the previous two routes. Staright up the wall.

FA: G.Child,R.Muehlen,J.Smoothy, 1990

23 R Trad 45m
3 Swimming Pools, Movie Stars

Start: Bash your way to the right side of the next buttress. This arete looks pretty good from Teenager Buttress!

  1. 30m (24 M1) Aid on carrot, left under the roof then right. Up wall and arete to break. Up to belay on ledge.

  2. 35m (22) Up the arete.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1984

24 M0 Aid 65m 2

1.4.5. Teenage Buttress 7 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** I Was a Teenager For the CIA

One of the mountains' finest arete routes. The rubbly stance at the base is above a steep drop into the jungle, but doesn't really require setting an anchor. The belayer can just lean on the tree.

Start: Start under the middle of the awesome front face of the buttress - which is where the abseil lands you.

  1. 28m (24) Take 6-8 bolt brackets and 15 quickdraws. Start up poor/dubious rock for 10m past old carrots and a couple of hard moves, to the main face. The rock quality now improves. Traverse left to the arête. Now strenuously up the arête to a hanging belay, off 1 new ring bolt, and 2 old carrots 1 of which is badly positioned and cantilevers the carabiner. Consider pulling up to clip the first lead bolt on pitch 2 to beef up this belay.

  2. 30m (23) A stunning pitch (rebolted 2004). Continue up the fantastic arête to the cave (extend the bolts before and after the cave). Traverse 5m right from the cave (the FHs going straight up from just to the right of the cave is DHMR), to ledge. Now straight up the awesome steep crimpy face finish.

FA: J.Smoothy, M.Stacey, 1988

24 Sport 65m 2
2 ** David Hicks Memorial Route

Direct finish to I was a Teenager for the CIA. 26 in the guidebook?

FA: Simon Atkins, 2006

25 Trad 20m
3 *** Teenage Nervous Breakdown

The middle route on the face. Rebolted 2004

Start: Rap down the centre of the face. Route starts at the chain belay for Teenage 'Werewolf'.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1986

24 to 26 Sport 40m
4 ** Beautiful but Limp

Links the start of Teenage 'Werewolf' into Teenage NB.

Start: Through choss off bottom ledge. At 3m step right and head straight up.

FA: R.Heap, 1999

27 Sport 50m
5 ** I Was a Teenage Werewolf

The lefthand arete (facing out). Needs rebolting.

Start: Rap in from rings on the left of the butress (facing out).

  1. 25m (24) As for TfCIA but head right through choss to the arete and belay.

  2. 30m (22) Up the arete to the top.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1984

23 Sport 55m 2
6 ** Puberty Blues

Start: Rap from the top of the cliff. 5m left of the left hand arete (IwaTW). Looking out.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Cuthbertson, 1988

21 Trad 30m
7 Prepubescence

Direct start to PB.

Start: Rap to the bottom. Corner on the right side of the butress (looking in). Up to belay of PB, then up.

FA: M.Law,S.Moon, 1991

25 Trad 25m

1.4.6. Jungle Two 2 routes in Cliff

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fossil Fling

Big undercut V corner. A bit of a bush bash to get in.

  1. 22m (19) Bridge corner, right wall to edge of roof and stance.Up to next small ledge, chimney/groove, blocks to cave and tree?

  2. 21m (19) Left to stance below dirty crack. Up to ledges, right to arete. Take care!

  3. 17m (19) Wall, up and left.

FA: J.Friend,K.Carrigan, 1974

19 Trad 60m 3
2 The Three Stooges

Start: 20m right of FF. Ferney corner right of white choss.

  1. 15m (21) 'Grovel' to roof and corner, right to arete.

  2. 35m (21) Squeeze into slot then out over the roof into corner. 'Steep' crack to tree? Corner to ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Head off to the left.

FA: M.Law,J.Ewbank,A.Penney, 1979

21 R Trad 70m 3

1.4.7. Outer Space Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * I Married A Monster From Outer Space

Start: The right most butress. Left hand route.

  1. 15m (20) Wall and corner (right of the main vegetated corner). Move left to main corner.

  2. 30m (22) Corner, left to ledge.

  3. 20m (20) Hard start then the seam. Take RP's!

FA: G.Bradbury,R.Miller, 1983

22 Trad 65m 3
2 * Big Red

Note pitch lenths!

Start: Walk in or rap. 10m plus 50m! from ICfOS chains.

  1. 51m (27) Short corner 2m right of ImaMfOS. 21 fixed hangers!

  2. 9m (25) Up.

FA: M.Law,J.Holbeck, 1992

27 Trad 60m 2
3 *** It Came from Outer Space

Start: 'Small' flake right of undercut arete. 10m right of IMaMfOS.

  1. 35m (25) 'Flake', mantle, then left above the undercut. Up to below the footledge. Left to arete. Up to ledge (?) and arete to hanging belay.

  2. 20m (23) Shale ledge to steep arete. To break then left side of arete. Wall and arete to ledge belay.

  3. 15m (19) 'Small' bulge and flakes right of the belay. Up left and out.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

25 Trad 70m 3

1.5. Zig Zag 121 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.247910, -33.596336


An old school climbing area with it's fair share of horror show gullies and overgrown cracks as well as some excellent sport routes and everything in between.

In short, there's something here for everyone.

Where To Stay:

There is some nice camping at the top of Little Zig Zag. It is close to residents however, so take care to keep them happy.

1.5.1. Ethel's Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Unknown, Sport and Trad

The first wall you see on your right as you walk off Zig Zag to the crag

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ethel Direct

Hard start of the platform, or link in from Harpo. Watch that death block about half way up.

20 Sport 15m
2 Ethel The Aardvark Goes Quantity Surveying

Ahh, please no..

Start: Off the small ledge above where the path leaves the Zig Zag.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

17 Trad 15m
3 Harpo

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

17 Sport 20m
4 Grouchie

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1999

19 Sport 18m
5 Just Go For It

Set by P Ward, S Carter, 1986

20 Sport 20m
6 Unknown 20

In Gully behind sector i. Rings.

FA: Stumpy

20 Unknown 10m
7 Kcabyal Kcarc 14 Unknown 10m
8 Smearing Sucks 13 Unknown 12m
9 Stairway to Heaven 10 Unknown 12m
10 Sperm Covered Punk Bitches 19 Unknown 12m
11 Something Sinister 14 Unknown 14m
12 Blasphemy 21 Unknown 23m

1.5.2. Deceptor Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Brass Monkey

Start: This area is about 50m past Grouchie.

FA: G.Owens,Daly,Smith, 2000

7 Trad 25m
2 * Denali Blaster

easy slab

FA: J.Boyton, 1985

14 Trad 35m
3 Deceptor

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 2000

10 R Trad 40m

1.5.3. Giggles Wall 28 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

The area between Rickapoodle and Black Betty.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rickapoodle Arete

FA: G.Owens,J.Lamb, 1973

14 Trad 44m
2 Grigris, Hmmmmm

Start: As for Rickapoodle Arete. BR, right to arete and ledge. Seam on right of arete to tree. Finish up Rickapoodle Arete.

FA: M. Hahn, N. Dwyer, D. Languscjh, 1994

14 Trad 30m
3 * Rickapoodle

FA: J.Wilson,G.Owens, 2000

9 Trad 30m
4 ** Giggles

FA: W.King,S.Burns, 1989

16 Trad 30m
5 Wazzakstan

FA: G Short, J Smoothy, 2005

19 Trad 30m
6 * Toads

Boulder problem start then intimidating groove

FA: K.carrigan,A.Penney, 1978

23 R Trad 43m
7 *** Taipan
  1. 25m (16) up the gully to ledge step out right onto wall and follow thin crack to ledge, abseil anchor here

  2. 15m (19) up the short steep crack on right (unpleasant one move wonder) to top - Taipan Variant is a much better finish

FA: K.Bell,I.Thomas, 1975

19 Trad 25m 2
8 ** Taipan Variant P2

The overhanging crack to the left of Taipan P1 belay. Great exposure!

16 Trad 20m
9 ** Fer De Lance

FA: K.Bell,P.Giles, 1975

18 Trad 30m
10 Unknown 1 21 Trad 15m
11 Catweazel

The arete.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

21 Trad 15m
12 Monty Madness

squeezed in there

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

22 Sport 10m
13 Army Exercises

Starts from the ledge after 'Taipan' start. Head left.

FA: W.King, 1990

21 Trad 20m
14 * Wagget & Wegnut

Start: Face above Army Exersises & Fer Der lance.

FA: T.Wegnut, 1995

23 Trad 15m
15 Groovie

Ferny chimney!

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson, 1968

12 Trad 30m
16 Frottage Wall

They dreamt of drills didnt they?

FA: T.Hunt,D.Eldridge, 1984

15 R Trad 12m
17 Possession

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt,A.Renney, 2000

22 Trad 35m
18 Truckstop Lawyers

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

23 Sport 20m
19 Truckstop Lawyers Variant

FA: Ivan and Bob

19 Sport 20m
20 Solo Chimney 6 Trad 45m
21 Semi-Solo 8 Trad 35m
22 Rumdoodle 7 Trad 45m
23 Walkabout 11 Trad 35m
24 The Land of Nod 5 Trad 35m
25 Spaghetti Bolognaise 13 Trad 43m
26 The Hounds of Hades 21 Trad 20m
27 Slunt 16 Trad 20m
28 Indecision 9 Trad 32m

1.5.4. Rip Van Winkle Wall 13 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

This routes on this wall start off the ledge just before you get to Dress Rehearsal Rag Wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Black Betty

FA: Ward,Leigh, 1988

17 Trad 20m
2 Penguins on Safari

FA: Hunt,Robbins,Eldridge, 1984

14 R Trad 35m
3 ** Bam Ba Lamb

FA: Leigh Ward, 1988

18 R Trad 40m
4 * Winkle

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

12 Trad 41m
5 * Penguin Pete

FA: T.Hunt, 2000

16 Trad 20m
6 * Van

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

16 Trad 44m
7 * Rip

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1972

14 Trad 20m
8 Lincoln's Mystery Route

FA: Unknown Climb. Line of new carrots.

18 Sport 20m
9 I Did It For Love

Awesome old school route, use anchors for SF!

FFA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

FA: Michael Purvis-Smith, Natalia Rode, 2012

9 Mixed 10m, 1
10 SF

Rebolted 2006. Quite contrived as the difficulty depends on whether you bridge out onto the adjacent wall.

21 Sport 12m
11 * Urako

quite strenuous

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

21 Sport 12m
12 Fashion TV

go up Urako to 1st bolt, traverse left, then head up to lower offs between arete and Urako.

FA: 2006

22 Sport 14m
13 * Make It Nylons

start up urako and traverse towards arete, fashion tv is essentially a rebolted version of this route

FA: Smoothy,Lumsden,McManus, 1988

20 Trad 20m

1.5.5. Dress Rehearsal Rag Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Mixture

Start: 2 Pitches.Starts on ground level. Crack to ledge. Crack.

FA: B.Mattick,G.Owens, 1968

11 Trad 47m
2 ** The Mighty Quinn

an excellent extension to dress rehearsal rag

FA: Ivan Valenta, Rob Dun

21 Sport 15m
3 Bolted slab with no holds

Optimistic Project ??

Trad 12m
4 *** Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch

Desperate for 17.

17 Sport 10m
5 *** Dress Rehearsal Rag
  1. 15m (17) Solid at the grade, rising traverse past the carrots, a few medium wires available but not necessary. Cracking pitch.

  2. 20m (21)

20 Sport 40m 2
6 Destruction of Army Group Centre

Start: As for DRR to ledge then take the left line.

FA: M.Grey,G.Weigand, 1982

23 R Trad 20m
7 * Disaster Area

Start: Marked IRA.

FA: S.Bullen,G.Hill, 1983

23 Sport 15m
8 * Dead Milkmen

FA: W.King,I.Collins, 1989

16 Trad 15m
9 Fairy Tales

Start: Lefthand route on the small wall. Has an extention all the way to the top (21).Take Care.

16 R Trad 13m
10 Fairy Tales Direct Finish 21 Trad 21m
11 Unknown 2 15 Trad 10m

1.5.6. Amok Time Gully 11 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Goodie Gumdrops 24 Trad 20m
2 * Amok Time 18 Trad 20m
3 Sidewinder 18 Trad 30m
4 Revolt 9 Trad 40m
5 The Carpenter 10 Trad 25m
6 The Walrus 6 Trad 30m
7 Crack to Nowhere 14 Trad 12m
8 Upheaval 16 Trad 33m
9 Twilight

On 'S' Wall. Head right on 3 bolts to arete. Go up arete on right side on rings to rap point.

FA: 2006

14 Unknown 20m
10 S 17 Trad 35m
11 Perfidious Rex 7 Trad 28m

1.5.7. Black Bart's Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Black Bart

Start: 'Arete' to the right of orange corner.

Beware the second bolt has been chopped, bring a green c4 (0.75) to protect a dangerous run out. A few carrots (3-4) and the rest are on fixed hangars.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1985

19 Sport 25m
2 * Bumflute

Start as BB, then left past a few hangers and single carrot up high.

FA: G Short, P Mort

17 Trad 30m
3 Pacemaker

Start: The orange corner.

FFA: K.Bell,H.Luxford.M.Law, 1975

22 R Trad 40m
4 * Stuffed

Start: Corner below roofs 10m left of Pacemaker.

  1. 22m (16) Block to crack then left into cave. Chimney to bollard.

  2. 22m (-) Chimney and corner to arete and belay ledge.

  3. 22m (-) Up to traverse line, right to easy corner.

FA: B.Price,G.Owens, 1972

16 Trad 66m 3
5 Sadhu Rum

Hard move off ground- brackets and bolts all the way up wall.

19 Sport 30m
6 Whale Oil Beef Hooked

Start: As for 'Stuffed' but right under the roof. Up the wall and around the corner to horizontal break. Rope drag! Finishes as for Pacemaker.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1989

22 Trad 50m
7 Stuffed Direct Start 20 Trad 4m
8 * Pumping Chickens

Start: 5m left of 'Stuffed'.Through roof to ledge and bollard.

FA: S.Moon, 1985

22 Trad 20m
9 * Geezer Pleaser

FA: Rob Dun, Ivan Valenta

21 Sport 30m
10 ** Just for Fun

Start: As for 'Honey Dip'.

  1. 30m (15) Clip first bolt on 'Honey Dip', stem across gap.Right to middle of face, up veering right to cave.Across void onto arete. Inside of arete to ledge (rings - double rope abseil!)

  2. 20m (-) Up, veer right through overhang to ramp.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1995

15 Trad 50m 2
11 *** Just for Fun - pitch 1 15 Sport 30m
12 *** Honey Dip

Start under roof up slab to bouldery move up through roof to single carrot, gear thereafter. Follow the beautiful crack up to the little rooflet (build a cam nest) then traverse left across and up to ledge to chain.

FA: H.Luxford,D.Darmanin, 1973

13 Mixed 30m, 1
13 Unknown 15 Trad 12m
14 ** Nameless! 21 Trad 15m

1.5.8. Shakes and Flakes Wall 5 routes in Cliff

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Racer's Edge

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

25 Sport 30m
2 The Racer's Edge Direct Finish

Rebolted. New bolts at start seem to be in wrong places..

25 Sport 30m
3 *** Shakes and Flakes

Great climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Used to get 3*! Still gets 2* but you dont get to talk about it in the pub so much

FA: M.Law, M.Johnson, 1979

21 Sport 30m
4 ** Let's Nail God

FA: J.Smoothy, 1990

23 Sport 30m
5 ** Tips for Troubadours

FA: J.Smoothy, 1985

23 Sport 30m

1.5.9. Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond 24 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Unknown

All the climbs at the left hand end of the crag from the Cheap Dive area to just before the base of Engineers Cascade.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rainy Day Saturday

FA: Luxford/ Darminin, 1973

14 Trad 60m
2 ** Turkish Delight

FA: Mortimer / Hain, 1974

18 Trad 60m
3 ** Cheap Dive


FA: Law/ Pennet/ Smoothy, 1979

22 Sport 40m
4 Cheap Skate 22 Sport
5 Demeresque

FA: Bell / Luxford, 1974

17 Trad 74m
6 No Pants

FA: Price / Owens / Smith, 2000

14 Trad 76m
7 Meanderthal

FA: Luxford / Edwards, 1974

13 Trad 43m
8 * Mr Poopypants

Hard first moves.

FA: G Short, P Mort, 2005

19 Trad 25m
9 327

To groove and up . . .

Start: At cairn.

FA: G Mortimer, W King, 1990

18 R Trad 35m
10 Unknown left of 327

start off cairn to 'good' hold!

19 Unknown 25m
11 Baldaquin

Thru roof and then scrubby crack.

Start: 10 m left of 327

FA: Luxford / Bell, 1974

18 Trad 35m
12 Hey Jude

Start: At short chimney

FA: H Bevan, G Owens, 1971

15 Trad 30m
13 A

Follows a left leaning seam. Actually quite good and unusual climbing and rock.. Grade 20?

Start: On the rap ledge.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed?, 2000

20 Trad 12m
14 B

A line of rings on the rap ledge. Splits into a left project (looks good) and right line (no tag, so must be done.

Short and steep.

Start: Directly above the FHs for rap into 'Catch the Wind'.

  1. 12m (-)

  2. -m (-)

FA: ?stumpy Ed., 2000

? Sport 12m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 * Bloody . . . , Nice?! : Project

Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.

Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.

FA: Project Mac / Zac

FA: Unknown, 2000

16 * Transcendental Meditation

Unique ascent. Exceptionally steep cranking for 1972!The obvious roof/offwidth. Often a watercourse. Up first 5 meters with difficulty then tight body squeeze in roof, unprotected unless you have a big..big bro. Consider hanging gear from waist or sending a rope down for it after chimney. Then awkward (for the 50th time) chimney to large chockstone. Good horizontal on right face then over top to gully. Good tree another 15 meters back.

FA: B.Price G.Owens, 1972

FFA: M . Dunstan, 1977

22 Trad 30m
17 Knot the Mumma 20 Trad 15m
18 Birdsnest Soup

Overgrown wide crack/chimney

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

17 Trad 30m
19 ** Bad Moon Rising 23 Trad 50m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 ** optimisation

6 RB,s left of Fandooglie on nice red rock. Pumpy last move after crux.

FFA: Jessica Tam, 2012

22 Sport 13m, 6
21 * Red Dwarf

Stickclip first RB for bouldery start, up past another pockety sequence to steep jugs.

FFA: Evan Wells, 2012

25 Sport 13m, 7
22 BR 16 Trad 8m
23 Merchant of Nightmares: Project

Short but steep finger crack to traverse.

FA: Zac / Mac, 2000

24 Fandooglie

Another chimney

9 Trad 45m

1.6. Engineers Cascade 16 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.249187, -33.594280

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bending Moments

Start: The line of rings 10m right of the ladder.

FA: J.Clark,J.Kurko, 1995

24 Sport 10m
2 * Dance of the Nymph


FA: G.Miller, 1993

22 Sport 10m
3 Unknown up SD then middle of wall 21 Unknown 9m
4 * Sly Drool


FA: V.Kondos, 1993

19 Sport 8m
5 * Unknown Short Arete

same start as sly drool

{FR} AU:19 Unknown 12m
6 * Psychotic

FA: G.Miller, 1993

23 Sport 16m
7 * Blubber Plunge

Start 2m left of 'Mechanical Advantage'. up left to flake then through steepness to short corner/arete and up face to anchors

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2004

24 Sport 15m
8 Mechanical Advantage

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

22 Sport 13m
9 Living in the Outside

FA: L & C.Hale, 1999

17 Sport 13m
10 Project (Frey) project Unknown
11 * Anty Matter

Walk right (facing out) from bottom of ladder, through some bushes to a short wall to the right of a scrubby corner. Up the right wall past 2 carrots and trad gear.

FA: J Croker, R Croker, 2007

12 Mixed 25m, 2
12 Nuklunda

Start: This and the next 2 routes start on the ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1993

26 Sport 16m
13 Vibes

Start: On the ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1993

25 Sport 16m
14 Bing Bong Merrily on High

Start: On the ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1993

24 Sport 15m
15 ** Project

Start: Short arete to the right.

16 * The Sweat

Walk over the hill and back down in gulley, or walk in from XXXX bouldering. Hard start and hard finish.

FA: Damo Taylor, 2006

24 Sport 15m

1.7. Catch the Wind Area 16 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.248276, -33.592658

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Focal Point

Scramble trough the bush to ledge. Crack to ledge to crack to overhang. 'Steep' corner to jam crack.

Start: Corner 100m left or 'Advanced Rockcraft'.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

22 Trad 40m
2 *** Advanced Rockcraft

Arete 40m left of 'Catch the Wind'.

Start: Rap in, or aid on a couple of carrots, to gain arete.

  1. 20m (23) 'Arete' to belay.

  2. 10m (25) Up crack following carrots. Past the piton (0.5 Friend)and through the roof to the top.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1986

25 Trad 30m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Crappy Upper Tier Sport Route

This is the short steep ringbolted sport route above the belay ledge at the top of Catch the Wind. It trends left on good orange rock then continues up suss black rock.

FA: Unknown 2000s

22 Sport 13m, 5
4 * Catchit


Start: Rap in to halfway ledge and climb out.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

19 Sport 15m
5 *** Catch the Wind

This is the reason you came here.

Start: A couple of metres to the right (facing in) of the rap line. The obvious line!

  1. 15m (21) Up corner to roof and belay.

  2. 30m (21) Jam to Glory.

FA: C.Peisker,C.Bowman, 1976

21 Trad 45m 2
6 ** Mekong Dreaming

Start at the first belay of CtW. Easily approached by abseiling in and walking 5m R on the ledge. You only need 1 or 2 red camalots for the belay if also using the rap rope and the first bolt. Climb 4m up right, then up the excellent steep prow in a great position. Lower off the last ring, or take brackets for a cramped top belay off carrots.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1999

25 Sport 20m, 7
7 *** Second Dreaming

The mega link of 2nd wind into MD. Climbs the best of both routes

FA: 2013

25 Sport 35m
8 ** Second Wind

a fine route. start as for passing wind to 3rd bolt then head out left following rings

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1988

24 Sport 30m
9 *** Passing Wind

Start: A few more metres to the right and around the arete. Up on block.hard start The middle line.

FA: J.Smoothy,MColyvan, 1987

22 Sport 30m
10 ** Eat. Sleep. Climb. Repeat

Great new climb on this mega wall. Thin sequence moves to start with the holds getting better and better the high you climb.

FFA: Ben JengA Lane., 2013

22 Sport 30m

1.7.1. Static Area 6 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.248558, -33.593441


Routes described left to right, starting 10 left of the abseil in, about 20m right of CTW, facing in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Static

Sustained, varied and technical climb up the obvious closed corner with fixed hangers and the trad crack above.

FA: G. Bradbury, G. Short, 2007

23 Trad 40m
2 Aretarama

Start at the closed seam of Static. Up and out on wall diagonally to arete. Up arete to ledge. Choice then to finish up the top crack of Static (18) with gear, 5.9+ (19) on bolts or Greased Lighning (13) on gear.

FA: G. Short, W. Williams, 2007

15 Sport 40m
3 Project

FA: G. Short

4 ** 5.9+

Right-hand line of white (!) bolts - carrots and fixed hangers - left of Greased Lightning. DBB below ledge. Walk or abseil off.

FA: W. Williams, G. Short

19 Sport 20m, 5
5 ** Greased Lightning

Starts at corner on right end of half-way ledge. (Just right of rap line). Crack/pillar to ledge. Take wires and small cams.

FA: G. Bradbury, G. Short, 2007

13 Trad 15m
6 Retreat From The Wind

Start: Obvious crack/fault line between the rap and the waterfall.

  1. 15m (16) Up crack. Is now overgrown.

  2. 25m (16) Traverse right and up wall.

FA: W.Williams,J.Croker, 1988

16 Trad 40m 2

1.8. Mitchells Ridge 86 routes in Crag

Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.236038, -33.584791

1.8.1. Sunset Rock 7 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.244793, -33.589137


Heading West through Mt Victoria, turn Left into Grandview Pde. Park near top of hill near Beaufort Ave. Walk down to gate. Follow signs "Sunset Rock, Walkers Only" heading Left to Sunset Rock (first rocky outcrop). Continue Right through bush down to descent Chimney.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Temporis

Start at left edge of short orange wall. Traverse in from Left to black streak, then up past 2 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

20 Sport 12m
2 * Vitae

Diagonal crack just Left of descent Chimney. Climb to crack, then to horizontal break. Traverse left to arete, and then up (2 bolts on left side). DBB at top.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

19 Sport 18m
3 * Librae

1m Right of Vitae. Climb crack then steep wall past 3 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

23 Sport 12m
4 Time, Life, Books

Climb the Right arete of the orange wall past 2 bolts to BB at top.

FFA: L. Trihey, J. Smoothy, 1987

21 Sport 12m
5 Toot Beep

Right of Time, Life, Books on Left arete of the small buttress. Hard start, then climb right side of the arete to the top past 2 bolts. Bring wires and medium cams.

FFA: L. McManus, F. Lumsden, 1988

14 Trad 10m
6 Stevo Steps Out

2m right of Toot Beep. Climb up to break, then up past 1 bolt. The tree is reportedly "off route". Bring a medium cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden, L. McManus, 1988

20 Trad 10m
7 Skeezer

Start at arete Right of Steve Steps Out. Behind tree to break, then up ramps on arete. Bring a large cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden, L. McManus, 1988

10 Trad 10m

1.8.2. Braddlefish Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.244412, -33.587516


Heading West through Mt Victoria, turn Left onto Grandview Pde. Head down and Right into Victoria St, then on for 400m to isolated cottage where road curves Right. Park here, and walk downhill through bush on Right towards back of cottage, then down and Left under rooves into Gully. Walk Right of Water Tank to start of cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** I'm a Braddlefish

Start near Right corner system. Past 3 bolts to ledge, then up faint line past more bolts to top. Bring large cams for upper section.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1986

23 Trad 30m
2 ** The Black Streak

Start at black streak 3m left of I'm a Braddlefish. Up past 3 bolts to crux, then to break. Up through roof and steep wall past 3 more bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, 1986

25 Sport 30m
3 To Know A Thief

4m Left of The Black Streak. Up past 2 bolts and range of gear to ledge. Left off ledge and through roof, then up past flakes to top via 7 bolts.

FFA: L. McManus, J. Smoothy, 1986

22 Trad 30m
4 It Takes A Thief

2m Left of To Know a Thief.

P1 (20m) - Up past Bolt to ledge and BB.

P2 (10m) - Up through roof and wall, then left and up to top.

FFA: M. Stacey, L. McManus, J. Smoothy, 1986

22 Trad 30m 2
5 *** Dream of tears

start on low ledge, easy climbing to middle ledge passing 1 bolt, through overlap & follow rings up face above to double bolt anchor.

FA: Lucky Chance, 2013

22 Sport 13m, 5

1.8.3. Loft Chimney Area 12 routes in Cliff

Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.243087, -33.586109

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Billy Blogs

Accessed by Abseil. Start 25m Right of top of John Arthur Ray (looking out). Rap 40m from BB and tree to chain and small gear belay. Up past bolt and gear to stance below arete. Thin moves to roof, then steep moves on good holds to bulge. Through bulge then up and left on slab to another bulge, then top past 11 bolts. Bring a mixed rack of cams.

FA: Wilson, Clark, Kurko, 1994

23 M0 Trad 40m
2 John Arthur Ray

50m left of Apostle of Ahisma at Right end of buttress.

P1 (25m - 26) - Traverse left to arete and up past 3 bolts and wires to DBB.

P2 (27m - 21) - Slab past 3 bolts, then right of arete and up to top past nuts and more bolts.

FFA: Bradbury, 1986

FA: Bradbury, Smoothy, 1986

26 Trad 52m
3 * Dead Man's Pyjamas 24 Unknown 52m
4 Apostle of Ahisma 19 Unknown 52m
5 Slingshot 14 M1 Aid 25m
6 Hidden Crack 10 Unknown 15m
7 Tom Thumb 17 Unknown 15m
8 Phalanx 23 Unknown 35m
9 Phalanx Variant 16 Unknown 15m
10 Pirouette 19 Unknown 35m
11 Gun Town Marshall 21 Unknown 25m
12 Living Behind the Moon 15 Unknown 30m

1.8.4. Town Tip Gully 3 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.240116, -33.583893


When entering Mitchell's Ridge picnic area, park near steel railing on Left before turnoff, and walk through gap in rail 15m to clifftop. Head down gully on the left, and down to base of cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 One Down

Start at short, dirty crack on grey rock, approximately 40m Right of Town Tip Gully. Climb crack to ledge, then climb corner to roof. Move left, and then up.

FFA: H. Luxford, D. Darmanin, 1968

15 M0 Trad 15m
2 Wanderlings

150m Right of One Down. Climb low angled vegetated corner (black slab on right) which steepens near the top.

Set by D. Fletcher, W. Davenport, 1968

13 Trad 60m
3 The Second Dimension - PROJECT LUCKY

scramble down gully to ledge at 1/3rd height, walk along to belay. 1st pitch 20m up to ledge and double ringbolt belay. 2nd pitch continues straight up to top & double rings.

Set by Lucky Chance, 2013

26 Sport Project 40m 2

1.8.5. Grace Gully 24 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.239493, -33.583510

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Oh! Shut up!

WARNING, top left anchor is loose!

FA: D.Geiger, 2002

20 Sport 15m
2 ** Welcome To The Borzoi

First route you come to on the main wall.

FA: M Baker, A Farquhar, 2013

25 Sport 15m, 8
3 * Slave to the Rhythm

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, J. Jobling, 1991

25 Sport 20m
4 ** Codein

25 in new guide

FA: G.Henderson, 2002

25 Sport 15m
5 * Mogambo

Rebolted 2004. 1st ring is loose, and so are the next few holds.

FA: M. Baker, W. Baird, 1991

24 Sport 18m
6 *** Grace

Rebolted 2004. If it could get more stars it would! WARNING, 1st ring is loose

Start: Start just left of the arete.

FA: J. Smoothy., 1988

26 Sport 20m
7 Project (Glen) project Unknown
8 ** Requiem for a Whippet

Requires the odd BP.

FA: A.Farquar, 1998

25 Sport 20m
9 * Will it Stay?

Before doing this be aware that 2 bolts are in a large flake of questionable permanence.

FA: M.Spring, 1999

23 Sport 15m
10 * The Jam Nazi

FA: D.Taylor, 1999

23 Sport 12m
11 Open Project project Unknown
12 ** The Missing Man

Right of vegetated corner. Fixed hangers to chain.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

25 Sport 15m
13 ** Introversion

Start: 2m right of MM.Finishes at MM chain.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

26 Sport 15m
14 * Glucosamine

Start: Stick clip ring behind the tree. Head up and left. Leavethe tree alone.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

25 Sport 15m
15 Pethadine

Start: As for 'Glucosamine', then right and up.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

24 Sport 15m
16 Morphine

Start: 4m right of P. Jump to lip then follow bolts left of Pethadine!

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

25 Sport 15m
17 #6

Bouldery start around the arete from 'Grace'.

FA: G.Henderson, 2004

27 Sport 15m
18 Unclimbed, wet corner crack/chimney. Sport
19 * Paradise Lost

FA: B.Littleford, 2004

29 Sport 18m
20 Tom Thumb

Take gear!

FA: H.Luxford, T.Tierney, 1968

17 Trad 15m
21 Project

FA: Mel, 2000

22 Rasta

FA: E.J, 2004

27 Sport 8m
23 * Too Legit to Quit

FA: B.Littleford, 2004

29 Sport 18m
24 * That’s Life

FA: M.Shields, 2004

25 Sport 20m The Boulevard (Loft Chimney Area) - move me to Sunset Rock areas 0 routes in Crag

1.8.6. The Quiet Place 9 routes in Crag

Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.238187, -33.582097

Description:© (secretary)

Apart from 'Showpiece' the routes in this area haven't been assessed regarding the fixed protection or their value.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area above the GW Hwy. Hence the name. 'Access' from Mitchell's Ridge 'Lookout', turn left at the toilet - yes, there are toilets - and park almost immediately on the left (small clearing covered in trash). Head for the obvious 'big' tree then leftish until you can see the big boulders. Down the rock shelves to cliff top.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Snail Special 20 Unknown 25m
2 Controlled Burning 23 Unknown 30m
3 * Public Spectacle 20 Unknown 25m
4 ** Showpiece

SSGIC's replaced 2004

FA: L. Trihey, W. King, 1987

19 Trad 30m
5 Workmates 21 Unknown 40m
6 Rollover 22 Unknown 30m
7 Hot Prospect 21 Unknown 30m
8 ** Punks On the Pass 23 Unknown 30m
9 Tarantula 14 M3 Aid 52m

1.8.7. Bay Tree Towers 20 routes in Crag

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.234134, -33.582045

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cream 16 Unknown 10m
2 Jam 13 Unknown 12m
3 * Scones 10 Unknown 12m
4 Ploughman's Special 9 Unknown 10m
5 Even Cargirls Get The Blues 9 Unknown 8m
6 Another Roadside Attraction 15 Unknown 15m
7 Jitterbug Exhaust Fumes 18 Unknown 13m
8 Still Life With Semi-Trailer 20 Unknown 12m
9 Loddle 14 Unknown 15m
10 ** Wall Street 17 Sport 15m
11 Nutmeg Cake 14 Unknown 15m
12 * Plastered 22 Unknown 22m
13 ** Whingeing Dogs 24 Unknown 20m
14 ** Double Exposure 17 Unknown 20m
15 Seven Fingered Fun 22 Unknown 20m
16 * The Crack 19 Unknown 18m
17 Kamikaze 20 Unknown 15m
18 Metacarpal 17 Unknown 30m
19 You Are Passing Another Fox 16 Unknown 30m
20 Mendoza

Flake 4m L of Loddle, then R diagonal crack

Set by Ian Sinden, Jeff Boyton

FA: 1989

16 Unknown 25m

1.8.8. Safety Ramp 2 routes in Crag

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Where Ego's Dare 23 Sport 25m
2 ** Crazy Rooter 23 Sport 25m

1.8.9. Eastern Block 4 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (Lee)

This is an interesting little area originally developed by Chris Jones who put up the classic 'Hari Kari' in 1999. It was rediscovered 5 years later by Lee Cossey who immediatly saw the line that came to be 'Cirque de Soleil'. All the routes here share the same style of climbing that being entirly traditionaly protected. There is room for a few more routes, some have already been attempted ground-up and are cosidered established trad projects, all are obviously open. Before bolting new lines here consider whether it may have already been traditionally concieved.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Unknown

This was apparently climbed by Chris Jones in 1999. Like the other routes here it is all trad the difference being the rock is of slightly lesser quality, worthwhile all the same.

Start: Start as for 'Cirque de Soleil' but climb straight up arete all the way. It may be possible to step onto the route a little higher up.

FA: Chris Jones, 1999

23 R Trad 20m
2 ** Cirque de Soleil

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just comitting.

Start: Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the begining of the left leading diagonal break.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

28 R Trad 30m
3 ** Unsigned Artist

Good Quality trad climbing. Two vary different pitch's.

Start: Abseil 45m off southern arete to the very bottom. Start in crack just left of corner.

  1. 33m (24) Climb initial corner stepping right onto arete a few meters up. Onto ledge followed by tricky moves to gain good jam and jugs. Follow jugs up and to the right. Go straight up the wall, initially using the flake to the right. Thin gear follows. Belay on obvious ledge.

  2. 12m (23) Exciting little headwall. Climb 5m off the belay to the only gear on the pitch, proceed on to and over rooflet to some slopey moves. If you are unsure of your ability it may be worth scopeing and chalking this bit on the way down.

FA: Rowan Druce, Lee Cossey. alt., 2004

24 R Trad 45m 2
4 *** Hari Kari

Classic grit style rock, climbing and protection. This has probably only seen one day of action since the first ascent, on this day however the fall from the crux was tested a few times, all walked away happy. A photograph of the FA was pulished claimimng it to be in 'Western Australia', had it been correct and described it as being in the Blue Mountains, this route would have surely seen more attention.

Start: Start part way down the steep gully. Below the obvious shallow slopey layaway. Up to break and into the layaway, yes you have to leave that good foot hold.

FA: Chris Jones, 1999

25 R Trad 15m

1.9. Mount York 235 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.220123, -33.553029

1.9.1. Galactic Gully 45 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.222620, -33.552921

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Saturdays Problems 15 Unknown 8m
2 * climb just left of fargoid(?) 22 Unknown 18m
3 * Fargoid

FA: A.Prehn,J.Smoothy, 1980

21 Sport 20m
4 This Years Model

Once the hardest route at the crag.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

24 Trad 20m
5 Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle

FA: G.James, 1980

19 Trad 15m
6 Gibberish

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

18 Trad 40m
7 * Jargon

Flake and arete

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

22 Trad 30m
8 Serious Moonlight

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1985

23 Trad 25m
9 Project 1 project Unknown
10 Intergalactic Gargle Blaster

Start: On the right side of the gully coming down. Hideous looking carrots.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

23 R Trad 25m
11 Vogon Poetry

Start: Right side of the gully.

21 Trad 23m
12 PTJ

Left side of the gully coming down.

10 Trad 15m
13 Flap

Start: To the right of PTJ, left of the arête. The next few routes are heavily used by commercial operators!

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

12 Trad 25m
14 Rice Bubbles

FA: B.Donaldson, 1983

15 Trad 18m
15 Snap

FA: R.Vining, 1974

12 Trad 30m
16 Crackle

FA: W.Williams,L.Thompson, 1974

16 Trad 30m
17 Pop

FA: J.Lorinez, 1974

13 R Trad 30m
18 Orphan Annie 12 Unknown 12m
19 Uncle Tom

Vegetated corner crack

FA: W.Williams,H.Luxford, 1976

15 Trad 35m
20 * Bowie Sux

Start: Marked.

FA: G.Hill,S.Bullen, 1983

24 Trad 25m
21 * Sensible Shoes

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

21 Trad 25m
22 * Red Robbin Direct Start 21 Unknown 15m
23 * Red Robbin

Has a direct start at 21!?

FA: R.Vining, 1974

16 Trad 30m
24 Ykikamookow

FA: J.Smoothy, 2000

21 Trad 25m
25 *** Auntie Jack

Classic. Lower-offs added and chopped. Might be back now?

FA: Ross Vining + ?, 1974

19 Trad 27m
26 ** Zipper

FA: G.Loins, 1986

19 Trad 25m
27 ** Disjointed

very hard start

FA: R.Weigand, S.Knight, 1982

23 Trad 25m
28 * Return of the Toe Cutter Gang

Ringbolts just left of corner to lower-off's. Hard start, then steady going.

FA: A. Penny, 1988

22 Trad 25m
29 * Peppercorn

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.


15 Trad 30m
30 Butterfly


FA: R.Vining,B.Blunt, 1974

16 Trad 40m
31 Left Lane Ends

FA: G.Clark, 1983

22 R Trad 25m
32 ** Viparete

Pleasant arete. Most people start just right of the tree to mantle and gear, then unprotected move left. After this the gear is good, but spaced. Take a rack including a 4 Friend and a bolt plate.

FA: R.Vining,W.Williams,J.Lorinez, 1974

17 Trad 30m
33 Rattler

FA: B.Evans,S.Bunton,G.de Lacy, 1984

18 Trad 25m
34 Porkypine

FA: A.Prehn,G.Hill,J.Muir, 1980

17 Trad 30m
35 Law & Disorder

FA: S.Knight,R.Weigand,J.Smoothy, 1982

21 Trad 25m
36 Killing Joke

FA: S.Bullen, 1984

24 Trad 25m
37 Lishenbak

Get here early for this one.

FA: J Lorinez, W Williams, B Blunt

10 Trad 30m
38 Crystal Set Direct Start 20 Unknown 3m
39 ** Radios Appear

Great climbing the whole way but barely adequate trad gear in the first half.

Start: Start 1m R of Lishenback.

FA: G.Weigand,J.Smoothy,S.Knight, 1982

23 Mixed 25m, 3
40 * Crystal Set

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

23 Trad 20m
41 Birds Nest

The attractive flakeline. Good...but not much gear where you need it.

FA: R.Vining,W.Williams,J.Lorinez, 1974

15 R Trad 25m
42 Spangled Drongo

Start 1.5m R of 'Birds Nest'. Thin face past about 5 stainless carrot bolts plus a cam, to loweroffs. The thin crux is unfortunately much harder than the rest of the route. Rebolted 2012.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1984

21 Mixed 20m, 5
43 * Sparrow

This is one of the best routes in this section of wall. Sustained, interesting climbing, well protected on carrots and a couple of trad pieces to lower-offs. Easier than CCC.

FA: R.Vining, 1974

18 Mixed 18m, 4
44 Currawongs & Chocolate Cakes

Start 4m Right of 'Sparrow'. Take 4 bolt brackets and medium cams.

FA: J. Anderson,C O'Leary, 2004

17 Mixed 18m, 4
45 Carrots For Brains

FA: unknown

17 Unknown 15m

1.9.2. Echo Gully 27 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.221462, -33.552645

Description:© (secretary)

Access gully with stairs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ichabod Ichabod


Start: This and the next 4 routes are on the right side of the gully heading down.

FA: J.Lorinez,B.Blunt, 1974

11 Trad 30m
2 Crow

Thin face climbing on very slight overhanging wall to break then up. No bridging on the other route. Start is the crux. 7 RBs to anchors. Bold "old skool 80's" climbing.

FA: W.Moon,B.Cameron, 1980

20 Sport 15m, 7
3 Paragon

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,G.Hill, 1980

19 Trad 23m
4 Holy Catfish

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,K.Brown, 1980

15 Trad 20m
5 * Tex Arcana

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984

20 Trad 15m
6 * Hullaballoo

Brackets to lower offs

FA: Mort-Short Team

21 Sport 15m
7 Micron

Start: This and the next few routes start from the track on the left side of the gully coming down.

FA: D.Grey, 1986

21 Trad 13m
8 Hollow Echo

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

9 Trad 15m
9 Grey Power

FA: D.Grey, 1986

22 Trad 12m
10 Second Echo

FA: B.Blunt, 1974

12 Trad 18m
11 Echo Point

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1982

15 Trad 20m
12 Blonde at Both Ends

FA: C.Cuthbertson, 1980

22 R Trad 17m
13 Resonance

FA: J.Smoothy, 1979

18 Mixed 20m, 1
14 Tintinnabulation

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1984

19 Trad 20m
15 Ablutions

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1979

19 Trad 25m
16 Misjudgement

The blunt arete at the base of the gully.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1983

18 Trad 27m
17 CC Rider

On the Block opposite 'Misjudgement'.

FA: B.Turk, 1983

15 Trad 9m
18 Safety in Numbers

FA: G.James,D.Grey, 1985

22 Trad 25m
19 ** The Obituary

Corner crack. popular.

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

14 Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 *** Atomic Punk

Face to the right of the Obituary.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

20 Trad 25m
21 * Oblivious

Start up AP and head up arete on hangers and gear to lower offs.

FA: G. Sort, P.Mort

21 Trad 20m
22 Oblivion

Quite a serious lead. Even Mikl cant remember how or why he did it or where it finishes!

Start: As for AP, then traverse right around prow and up slab with very little gear! Has a varient start to the right of the choss (S.Moon) which may keep going up the arete - carrots - or may not? Too many drugs in those days!

FA: M.Law,.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1978

20 X Trad 30m
23 Oblivion Variant Start 22 Unknown 20m
24 * Moss' Effort

Up and to the right of 'Oblivion'.

FA: S.Moon,J.Smoothy, 1983

22 Trad 25m
25 Confessions of a Wannabe

Slabby climbing to third bolt and then up. Runout between 2nd and 3rd (be careful). 4 or 5 RBs to anchors I think?? Originally graded 24 in the 2010 Bluies Guide.

22 Sport 15m, 5
26 Refusal

Corner to the right of ME.

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

14 Trad 25m
27 * The Knights of Nee

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1984

17 Trad 20m

1.9.3. Exhibition Wall 37 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.220238, -33.551950

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stairway to Bevan

FA: 2004

25 Sport 15m
2 Blackfellas Barkoo

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

14 Trad 25m
3 Pen Point Paranoia

Start as for horror show but follow the obvious line up and to the left toward blackfella barkoo, ascending to the right of the tree. The route is full of leaf litter from the tree on up. For TR access from the first lookout when leaving the carpark.

FA: G.Robins,J.Boyton, 1985

16 Trad 25m
4 Horror Show

FA: J.Friend,K.Bell, 1974

20 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** Buddha and the Chocolate Box

FA: S.Camps,Wilson,Smoothy, 1986

23 Sport 25m
6 * Engineering Feats of the 80s

Great climbing on very unique, sharp mountains sandstone. A carrot or two and then fixed hangers all the way to the anchors. Has gone from under- to over-bolted thanks to the retrobolts added circa 2012. Currently 23 in the 2010 Blue Mountains Guide

FA: R.Weigand,G,Clark, 1983

22 Sport 25m, 10
7 * Pain In The Arse

Technical. Same start as Pain Of Glass, after 4th bolt go straight up then traverse back R to 6th bolt of Pain Of Glass

FA: A Farquhar, M Baker, 2010

23 Sport 25m
8 ** Pain Of Glass

Technical and thin! Take 8 brackets, tops out.

FA: M Baker, A Farquhar, 2012

27 Sport 25m
9 Macho Man

T the left of the arete before the 'Exhibition Wall'.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

23 Trad 30m
10 The Fellowship of Bevan

Serious direct start to Crystal Palace starting below arete of Iron in the Soul

FA: 2004

23 Unknown 25m
11 * Iron in the Soul

Was rebolted...once.

FA: G.Robertson,S.Knight, 1982

21 R Trad 30m
12 * Cardboard Wilderness

Stupid in fact! Like most of the routes on this wall they could do with a great deal of 'common sense' and a rebolt!

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

21 R Trad 30m
13 *** Exhibition Wall

Has been rebolted on huge, shiny fixed hangers!

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1979

21 Sport 30m
14 ** The Rage this Season

Used to need small TCU's, but now its got shiny RBs all the way up to where it joins Exhibition Wall.

FA: R.Weigand,P,Greenwell, 1982

23 R Trad 30m
15 ** The Age of Reason

Perhaps not...A most unsociable companion...Had been 'rebolted' then had the anchors removed. Take cams and a sling for a dubious thread.

FA: W.Baird, 1980

24 R Trad 30m
16 ** Software Freak

FA: R.Weigand, 1982

23 Trad 30m
17 ** The Age of Rubber

FA: M.Stacey, 1988

24 R Trad 30m
18 Ferny Groove

Choss corner to arete, right side of the wall.

FA: B.Blunt,J.Lorinez, 1974

15 Trad 30m
19 * REM state ruminations

start on the arete below Ferny Groove up arete past 2 bolts, then up the steep bit of Ferny Groove (cams). step left and up arete past bolts to lower off

FA: j smoothy g.short, 2012

17 Mixed 25m, 8
20 * Crystal Palace

Traverse in the best of British tradition!

Start: As for RG then left and left again!

FA: P.Greenwell,R.Weigand, 1982

22 Trad 60m
21 Trend Setters Bail

Dirty crack to rooflet.

Start: About 5m up Obstacle Course 'Gully' on the left side.

FA: P.Rees, 1984

13 Trad 20m
22 Green Slimy Death


Start: 7m LEFT of TDotSPF.

FA: Prehn,Kuehn,Donald,Smoothy, 1988

23 R Trad 20m
23 * The Dance of the Sugar Plum Fary

Not well(?) protected!

Start: 20m right of the gully. Up an a ledge 20m above the track.

FA: R.Vining,W.Blunt, 1974

17 R Trad 25m
24 Yellow Peril

An apt name! Apparently better than it looks.

Start: Corner 2m right.

FA: W.Blunt,W.Williams, 1974

13 R Trad 20m
25 Vulgate

Start: Up the corner for 10m. 5m right of previous climb.

FA: B Blunt, McTackett, R Vining

16 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 * Yank Ya Doodle

Layback an off width.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: R.Vining,G.Harrison, 1974

18 Trad 12m
27 Pussy Footin'

Still off the ledge.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: W.Williams,R.Vining,Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

15 Trad 30m
28 Rusty Bucket

Start: 27m right of PF. Chimney - chockstones and a bucket that was rusty in 1974!

FA: P.Mara,W.Blunt, 1974

9 R Trad 20m
29 Nutmeg


Start: 4m right again.

FA: W.Blunt,Mr(?)Thornton,Mr(?)Thompson, 1974

10 Trad 20m
30 * The Monster Off Width

Aided by Glenn Robbins, had numerous free attempts over a 5 year period.

Start: 17m right.Marked.

FA: W.Baird,D.Wagland, 1981

21 Trad 30m
31 Sand Castle

"Only Joe could ever concieve a route up here. A fine companion to 'Apollo' at 'Sublime Point'. Dont forget to take a plastic bucket and shovel, you'll need them."

Start: As for TMO.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

13 Trad 30m
32 Grub

Ramble up to ledge, across to corner and up.

Start: 20m right of TMO, right side of the sandy cave.

FA: P.Mara,W.Blunt, 1974

11 Trad 25m
33 Grub Direct Finish 14 Unknown
34 Subterranean Homesick Blues

Start: 38m right again. Wide crack. Name spells it out for you!

FA: R.Vining,W.Williams, 1974

14 Trad 20m
35 Bristletail

Another Joe Friend classic - take care!

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: J.Friend, 1974

13 Trad 30m
36 Knights Effort

As for SHSB to traverse line of B. Ignore traverse, up wall past bolt to top.

Start: As for SHSB.

FA: S.Knight, 1982

21 Trad 20m
37 * Syriac

The overhanging offwidth 20m to the left of the 'nothings'. Marked. Big nuts and jammed helmets!

FA: B.Blunt,W.Williams,R.Vining, 1974

17 R Trad 10m

1.9.4. Monument Ridge Gully 57 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.218909, -33.551997

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Nothing

FA: W.Baird,D.Wagland, 1981

24 Sport 30m
2 ** Next to Nothing

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

26 Sport 30m
3 Areticide

As for PT but stay on the arete. Take 3 brackets!

FA: G. Short,P. Mort, 2004

19 Sport 20m, 4
4 Paper Tiger

Corner 5m right of the 'Nothings'.

FA: W.Williams,B.Blunt,J.Lorinez & Nutley., 1974

15 Trad 15m
5 * Iron Filings

The hardest climb at Mt York when it was done in 82. Take about four long slings.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Robertson, 1982

25 Sport 27m
6 * Metal Shavings

A piece of vertical technicality - very 1980s!

FA: S.Bullen,G.Hill, 1984

26 Sport 25m
7 ** Ferro Pro

Super sustained slab with a welcome picnic cave halfway. Rebolted 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

24 Sport 20m
8 Bon Ami

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

12 Trad 25m
9 Russell's Wander

FA: Unknown - definately not Russell Taylor.Possibly J.Worrall late's?, 1960

14 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Scatterbrain

As for RD for first two bolts, then trend further left and up to 'breaking wave' finish.

FA: M.Stacey D.Whithouse, 1991

23 Sport 16m
11 * Royal Doulton

As for MP, moving left after first bolt and up steep face. Great.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

23 Sport 15m
12 ** Master Plan

The glorious arete. Starts at the huge 'MP' marking.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

23 Sport 15m
13 ** The Go Between

The face in the middle of the pillar, starting up Marooned before moving left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1987

22 Sport 15m
14 * Marooned

The right arete of the pillar. Surprisingly pumpy! Needs one bolt bracket.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

20 Sport 12m
15 Gilligan's Island 18 Trad 13m
16 Drop Out 12 Trad 7m
17 Easy Corner


Start: 80m right of the gully. In the first compact section of cliff.

FA: A.Penney, 1982

11 Trad 20m
18 A?

Start: 5m right.

19 B?

Start: 4m right again.

20 Short'n Sweet

"Um, yes I did it. But I didnt think it was worth writting up!" RT

Start: Rightward leaning corner 25m right of EC.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

12 Trad 15m
21 Silly Chimney

Yes!! Take big stuff if you really want some protection.

Start: 25m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

11 Trad 15m
22 Rank Xerox

2m right of Silly Chimney. Bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

23 Trad 20m
23 Jazz Discharge

4m R. Turn the bulge and carefully up past 2 bolts.

FA: G.Fieg, 1990

22 R Trad 20m
24 Last Thoughts

Start: 20m R of Silly Chimney, L of tree below single carrot on wall. Straight up following carrots (one FH) to lower offs.

FA: ​​W Williams, G Short, 2009

12 Sport 20m
25 Second last thoughts

Start: Adjacent to Last Thoughts on R of tree. Follow bolts to lower offs. ​​

FA: W Williams, G Short, 2009

14 Sport 25m
26 Gamma Goblin

Left of the corner with bushes?

Start: 20m BELOW and left of 'Rotating Toothbrush'. Treed ledge 4m above the track??

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

19 Trad 20m
27 Head Jam

Steep chimney/crack, corner and crack.

Start: 55m (?) right of SC at bushes left of yellow choss corner with roof at 6m?

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

18 Trad 20m
28 Paint Sticks & Electric Dicks

Just L of arete, 5m L of Rotating Toothbrush. Up past two bolts to rap station.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1983

12 Unknown 10m
29 Le Spew

Start: As for previous but right to cave.

FA: C.Wilmott,D.Le Dieu, 1994

10 Trad 10m
30 * Rotating Toothbrush

The only reason you really came up here. 2 bolts.

FA: R.Weigand,G.Robertson,M.Grey, 1982

24 Mixed 15m, 2
31 On the Loose

Thin crack (about 10m above the track), to horizontal - left, left then through overhang (take care) to top. You should find an old peg and a bolt up there somewhere.

Start: 20m right of the scramble up to the RT ledge.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1979

20 R Trad 20m
32 Let's Dance

Please no. Start: 2m right.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

23 Mixed 15m, 2
33 Igneous

6m R. Clean aesthetic corner.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

16 Trad 15m
34 Magpie Innocence

1m R. Bulges on right wall of the arete. Stay off the arete.

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

20 Trad 15m
35 China Girl

Follow bolts to roof, over and up.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1983

22 Trad 12m
36 Fractured

Start: On wall about 7m right of the gully.

FA: R.Young, 1988

20 Trad 20m
37 * Cracked Emerald

Bridge tree, then left up centre of the wall, left at the 2nd bolt.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,M.Burton, 1982

20 R Trad 15m
38 * Cracked Actor

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1985

22 Sport 15m
39 Gigg's Excursion

Obvious crack with overhangs. Start at left side of alcove. Trad gear. Rap off DRBB or continue up P2 of Moonlighting the Renovations on carrots to top of cliff and DRBB.

FA: W. Williams, K. Melville, 2009

15 Trad 25m
40 * Moonlighting the Renovations

The left most route on the recessed face, equipped with carrots and fixed hangers. The top pitch is steep and in a very good position.

FA: J Gaibor, 2004

17 Sport 35m 2
41 Year Long Winter

Line of carrots right of MTR, with lower offs at lip of ledge.

FA: C O'Leary, 2004

19 Sport 18m
42 Still no Bathroom
  1. Line of rings up slab to DRBB.

  2. Line of rings up orange wall to DRBB lower-offs.

FA: J. Gaibor, 2004

19 Sport 35m 2
43 Criminal Connections

Up chimney/corner, rightwards to shallow corner and up to tree. Through the tunnel to top.

Start: Chimney/corner about 55m right of CA.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

9 Trad 20m
44 Criminal World

Start: Left of the flake.

20 Trad 20m
45 Young Dudes

Flake 5m R of CW.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

16 Trad 20m
46 Camerons Climb 19 Unknown 15m
47 * Lambrusco Kid

Start: Bolts 3m right of YD.

FA: A.Prehn, 1988

25 Sport 15m
48 * First Year Uni

Start: 3m right at short corner crack.

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1977

19 Trad 15m
49 Second Year Uni

Start: As for FYU but right.

FA: A.Prehn,G.Steward, 1988

25 Trad 15m
50 Kitchen Sink

Start: 30m right of FYU. Corners.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

10 Trad 10m
51 Roaring Forties

Crack and flake.

Start: 7m right again.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

14 Trad 15m
52 Modern Girl

At block below a small overhang and short rotten wall. Thin crack and face.

Start: 26m right of RF.

FA: M.Burton,R.Young,G.Scott, 1980

18 Trad 23m
53 Post Modern Girl 19 Unknown 18m
54 Unknown1 22 Unknown 25m
55 Unknown2 22 Unknown 45m
56 * Fizzgig

FA: G.Short, J.Smoothy, P.Mort

21 Unknown 20m
57 Whodunnit

FA: G.Short, P.Mort, B.Junge, G.Bradbury

19 Unknown 25m

1.9.5. Blaxland Gully 33 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.218092, -33.554410

Description:© (mjw)

Take track opposite the picnic shelter for about 15m to cairn, follow track down the hill for 50m to main gully. Left along ledge to the gullys left branch and down. A bit like a canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mr McGuirkesqirter

Start: 17m right of the gully. Lefthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

24 Sport 15m
2 *** Ashes to Ashes

Stick clip. Often has birds nesting in the big break on the right, particularly in spring. Have a look, and stay off if you see signs of a nest.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn, 1985

25 Sport 40m, 6
3 * Dust to Dust

Start: Righthand route.

FA: A.Farquar, 1996

25 Sport 15m
4 Venturi

Corner to roof, under this and up slab.

Start: Low angled corner to roofs.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.van der Sluys, 1974

8 Trad 40m
5 Peeceezy

The easiest route in the guide!

Start: Right of V.

FA: B.Ratter,C.Peisker, 1974

4 Trad 40m
6 Cinders

Start: Above Peeceezy. Traverse the roof to the left. Backjump to clean.

FA: M.Brooks, 2002

25 Sport 10m
7 Pommy Filth

Lefthand route. Take care with the rock at the top.

Start: On wall aroung the corner from previous routes.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

19 Sport 20m
8 Andy Wigley Sings the Blues

Take care with the rock.

Start: As for PF but right.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

21 Sport 20m
9 Bound to Eternity

Start: Left of the offwidth corner.

FA: J.Clarke, 1996

19 Sport 15m
10 * Thunderfart

Tecnically starts in the corner right of the slot!

Start: The Corner/Offwidth to top.

FA: J.Croker,B.Ratter, 1974

14 Trad 35m
11 * Muriels Wedding and Russells Divorce

FA: S.Wainwright,K.Symonds, 1996

20 Sport 12m
12 ** Noodle

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

15 Sport 12m
13 ** Lexical Density

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge!

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

18 Sport 25m
14 Right of Lexical Density 19 Unknown 20m
15 Charlene

Wall to horizontal break, right and up wall to top.

Start: Right of LD.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

20 Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Murmel Snooze

On Fixed Hangers. Start up slightly left of Public Pressure, and trend up and left through varied climbing (and varied rock quality).

FA: G. Short, 2008

20 Sport 25m, 9
17 * Public Pressure

Start: As for 'Murmel Snooze'. Marked. Straight up through the overlap.

FA: M.Colyvan,P.Colyvan, 1982

19 Sport 30m, 8
18 *** Mezzaluna

Has become a bit of a classic. 5 carrot bolts, 3 fixed hangers. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the last (carrot) bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

16 Sport 25m, 8
19 ** Tin Man

Excellent wall between 'Mezzaluna' and 'High Society'

FA: John Dmoothy, Glenn Short, Gmma Williams, 2010

19 Sport 18m
20 High Society

Up about 10m to 'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

18 Sport 25m, 7
21 * Community Service

Start: 5m right of High Society at tree.

FA: Julian Anderson

15 Sport 20m, 6
22 Shabby Doll

Start: 3m right of Community Service. Dirty and not much gear.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill, 1982

15 R Trad 20m
23 My Grandmother's Dinky

Start: 3m left of Frolic.

15 Sport 20m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 Frolic

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

FA: R.Young, 1982

9 Trad 13m
25 Unknown (2)

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious.

17 Sport 12m, 4
26 Salubrious

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

18 Sport 18m, 4
27 Unethical


Start: Right again near boulder.

FA: P Matysek

17 Sport 15m, 5
28 Stinkeye

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

FA: G.Short,P.Mort, 1998

16 Sport 12m, 5
29 I Know Boats

Start: 2m right of Stinkeye at the tree.

17 Sport 18m, 4
30 Dalek Staircase

Follow carrots veering up right to DRBB.

Start: As for IKB.

FA: Robert Dun/Ivan Valenta/Jane Montgomery, 2002

17 Sport 12m, 4
31 Unknown

A new climb that just seems to have appeared. Up slab and around overlap to DRBB.

Sport 10m, 4
32 Dales left nut 17 Unknown 15m
33 Flap your hands like a chicken 17 Unknown 15m

1.9.6. Wentworths Gully 29 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.218295, -33.555282

Description:© (mjw)

Probably the best way to get to the climbs on the Shady Side. Getting a little eroded due to all the current traffic.

Approach:© (mjw)

The track starts from a small clearing - often used for camping. The track is marked by a large tree stump and a cairn. This is easiest to find by parking in the Mt York turning circle area, and walking back towards Mt 'Victoria' for about 50m, it's on your right. Follow track down and through easy downclimb to cliff base. Turn right to the 'Mezzaluna Area', left for the rest. This is the last section of Mt York Shady Side. The next area is Barden's 'Lookout'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Grand Larceny

A good looking line.

Start: 20m right of the gully facing the cliff.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

13 Trad 30m
2 Inter City Blues

Short corner, onto wall to small ledge, up right to top.

Start: 4m right.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

18 Trad 25m
3 * unknown 1

Through the bulges and up the wall. Mostly carrots but a couple of cams to make it safe. Double rings lower off.

17 Trad 22m
4 Unknown 2

Strenuously through bulges and up wall. Mostly carrots but cam good up high.

16 Sport 20m
5 ** Unknown 6 20 Sport 20m
6 The Wrong Corner

FA: Jim Croft, Diane Mangan, Mike Patterson

12 Unknown 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** These Electric Sex Pants

The left hand route on the high ledge.

FA: G Short, J Smoothy, G Bradbury, 2009

18 Sport 25m
8 * Last Call for Fame and Glory

Corner to ledge. Left and belay (2.5m). Up wall past bolts and overhang.

Start: At short corner 40m right of ICB.

FA: M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy,R.Weigand,P.Colyvan, 1982

18 Sport 25m
9 ** Second Thoughts

Start: As for LCfFaG but continue up the main corner.

FA: J.Bishop,J.Aalders,S.Van der Sluys, 1974

11 Trad 25m
10 ** Uncle Amy

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent!

FA: G Short, J Smoothy, 2009

18 Sport 25m
11 * Popular Opinion

A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defience of Ralph's clain to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P

Start: As for ST. 1m right of secont corner.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Hill,P.Colyvan, 1982

19 Trad 20m
12 Nocturnal

FA: Bundy

21 Sport 20m
13 Popularity Stakes Direct

As for Popularity Stakes, but then directly up wall. Shared finish with Nocturnal

24 Sport 20m
14 Popularity Stakes

Left around the bulge then finish as for PO. 3 bolts.

Start: 2m right of LCfFaG.

FA: G.Bradbury,J.Smoothy, 1988

23 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 * Serious Leather

Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above.

Start: Wall 4m right.

FA: S Knight, R Weigand, 1982

22 Sport 25m
16 *** Deep Freeze

Up to roof and over to top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!

Start: 1.5m right again.

FA: R.Young.A.Prehn, 1980

20 Sport 22m, 11
17 * Weigands Effort

Ther is a grafitti mark to the LEFT of the climb. Ignore this!

Start: Short corner to roof 4m right of SL.

FA: R.Weigand,G.Hill, 1982

22 Trad 30m
18 * Impotent Narcissus

A fine roof crack on good rock!

Start: 1m right of WE. Roof crack.

FA: H.Luxford,C.Peisker, 1976

18 Trad 30m
19 Over Under Upside Down

Start: Right of IN.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

22 Trad 30m
20 Hurly Burly 20 Sport 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Joe the Lion

Dirty crack. Could be good with some gardening.

FA: R Taylor, 1970

17 Trad 40m
22 ** Dragons tooth

The obvious wide corner crack

13 Trad 30m
23 * Ooops

Line of bolts between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete.

FA: G Short P Mort, 2008

18 Sport 25m
24 * Technical Stuff (direct start)

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS

19 Sport 20m
25 * Technical Stuff

Nice arete ~10 m right of Dragon's Tooth. Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter- brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

17 Trad 20m
26 Hermaphrodite Hamster

Line of rings up the hard blank slab

FA: K Allen, C Coghill, 2009

25 Sport 20m
27 Mistral(variation) 16 Unknown 20m
28 Krell 16 Unknown 20m
29 Unknown


Start: About 15m right. Under the roof.

FA: Unknown, 2000

19 Trad 20m

1.9.7. Wolf Cave 7 routes in Crag

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Un-named traverse V8 Boulder
2 Perplex City

FA: Garth Miller, 2006

V12 Boulder
3 Big Move from jug V4 Boulder
4 Big move to crimp V3 Boulder
5 Gage Wolf V9 Boulder
6 Block Town Pinch V7 Boulder
7 Radness & Charmed V8 Boulder

1.10. New York 85 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.228840, -33.558028

Description:© (aca_admin)

A neat little playgroung half way along the Mt.York peninsular. Mainly sport with a few small trad lines. Has 2 sides to the crag. The West Side and the East Side. 'Start spreading the news...'

Park in obvious cleared area opposite the northern 'Historic Wells' sign about 100m before Bardens Lookout. Try to leave room for other cars, especially on weekends.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

Park at the Northern entrance of the Historic Wells road. This is 3.6km from the Great Western 'Highway'. If coming from the other direction, the parking spot is 500m southeast from Barden's lookout or 1.1km from the Mt York turning circle. Find the track located on the opposite side of the road from the Historic Wells and walk east down this track for 10 mins until the trach splits near a big fallen tree and boulder. Head left to the West Side or right to the East Side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kamikazee Jumbos

Dog-leg crack 20m R of main wall

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2005

19 Trad 15m

1.10.1. West (Left) Side 30 routes in Sector

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.227257, -33.557633

Description:© (mjw)

The following routes are left to right on the West Side.The section to the left of the Big Tree. Mostly sport but worth bringing a basic rack for the mixed routes.

There has been some very destructive clearing of ferns to add some worthless starts to existing climbs.

Approach:© (mjw)

Turn left where the track splits at the big falled tree and boulder. Follow around to the left through the scrub until you find the arete of Fox Force 5.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Fun Buns

Route located in cave on west (left) side as you approach gully. Sit start beneath overhanging prow. Climb up and finish matched on break.

FFA: @bevanashby, 30th Sep

V10 Boulder 3m
2 * Meltdown Town

1st route you come to on the western side of the gully.

FA: S.Squires, 1998

23 Sport 8m
3 ** Plastic Surgery Disasters

FA: S.Squires, 1996

24 Sport 8m
4 ** #11 22 Sport 10m
5 Direct Start (Are You Loathsome Tonight?)

Grab the pinch and punch out left, then crank through steepness to arête. Then up and right to fourth. There are different views on "if the tree is in". If not it's a little thin off the deck, but fun.

22 Sport 12m, 8
6 Are You Loathsome Tonight?

Straight up.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

18 Sport 12m
7 Landmines for Line-Dancers

Shares a start with Are you Loathsome Tonight. There is a route before this, and someone has added a direct start but they are quite worthless and an environmental abomination.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

17 Sport 12m
8 Schizophrenic Sideburns

Take a small friend for the top and a bolt plate for the first clip, it's rings after that. Hard first move, then some cool and unusual climbing. Definitely worth taking a small rack to the crag. Start: A couple of metres left of the arete - SDS.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

17 Sport 12m
9 ** Spanking De Sade

The arete.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

21 Sport 12m
10 ** The End of Silence

FA: S.Squires, 1998

24 Sport 12m
11 ** The Ita Buttrose Spreadmill Route

Corner. Traverse right under roof to carrot lower offs?

FA: S.Squires, 2000

16 Trad 12m
12 Lyrebird Corner

Corner and hand crack.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

16 Trad 12m
13 * Ballistica

Up face past 3 hangers clip LC anchor

FA: C George, 2007

21 Sport 12m
14 * Fox Force 5

Start: The wall to arete.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

17 Sport 12m
15 Spoonbender

The staircase with a hard first step. Newbies beware between the third and fourth and tap the rock above the fourth, it is hollow and sounds it.

Start: Around the arete from FF5.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

15 Sport 12m, 7
16 Illusory

Hard start and mantle then up a cruisy slab. There are only three bolt brackets on this route and it is runout. Anchors are also brackets, take care of your rope. Gets filthy after rainfall.

FA: degroot,jones,craswell, 2006

19 Sport 14m, 5
17 Winter Slab

FA: jones

14 Trad 12m
18 Nice Root

FA: Jones,Corkill

7 Trad 12m
19 Life's Pretty Straight

FA: P Corkill,Craswell,Jones

18 Trad 15m
20 Synchronicity

FA: DeGroot,Corkill,Jones, 2006

18 Trad 15m
21 Factotum

FA: Craswell,DeGroot, 2006

17 Trad 15m
22 * Shovelling Out the Paupers

Start: Crack to slab and corner. Abought 20m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

17 Trad 15m
23 Good Morning Mr Jones

FA: P.Craswell,A.Jones, 2006

12 Trad 14m
24 Furtwangler

FA: A.Jones,P.Craswell, 2006

8 Trad 14m
25 Project 1 project Unknown
26 Unknown 24 Sport 15m
27 ** Tight Like a Tiger

FA: C George, 2006

16 Unknown 10m
28 Ninja Penguins

FA: H Sutton, 2006

13 Unknown 10m
29 ** Flip Your Wig

Rising traverse.

Start: Left hand side og the small gully about 40m right of 'Spoonbender'.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

22 Sport 10m
30 ** The Outsider

The route on the wall to the right of FYW.

Start: Traverse right from undercut start and up the arete.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

23 Sport 12m

1.10.2. East (Right) Side 51 routes in Sector

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.230114, -33.558345


On the right side, the east, of the small creek. Some very good steeper climbing and a couple of nice face climbs.


Turn right where the track splits at the big fallen tree and boulder. Follow obvious track up and around the boulder, keep going until you see the nice curved overhanging wall where you'll find Moan Groan Dial Tone and Silence of the Cams etc.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 1 project Sport
2 * Mosh

FA: S.Squires, 1986

23 Sport 10m
3 * Wargasm

Start as for Mosh and traverse left along the break. A rack of cams is handy.

FA: S.Squires,J.Ryan, 1997

23 Trad 15m
4 Project 2 project Unknown
5 Unknown 0

Two small/rusted looking carrots which are hard to spot and some gear to tree.

Start 15 meters left of preceding climbs on the right hand side of the wall near the arete.

16 Mixed 10m, 2
6 Unknown 1

2 carrots and cams / wires, lower off / belay off tree.

Start a couple of meters left of 'Unknown 0'

FA: Unknown, 2000

14 Mixed 10m, 2
7 Unknown 2

2 carrots, cams /wires. Lower off tree / belay off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of 'Unknown 1'

15 Mixed 10m, 2
8 Unknown 3

2 carrots, cams / wires. Lower off tree.

Start: 2 meters left of 'Unknown 2'.

FA: Unknown, 2000

15 Mixed 10m, 2
9 Tall Dwarfs

Start: This and the following 2 routes are on the uninspiring wall with the overhanging dinner plates.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

18 Trad 10m
10 Terror Couple Kill Colonel

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

18 Trad 10m
11 Deathburger Highway

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

18 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Satanic Nuns

Start: Small wall facing the main wall.

FA: D.Geraghty,S.Squires, 1996

20 Sport 15m
13 * Cosmic Gall

Start: The dirty corner/ramp to the left of SN.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

15 Trad 15m
14 ** Libby the Lick

Dec 2012 update: ledge between bolt 1 and 2 has disintergrated. Now dirty and needs attention before its climbable again.


Start: The 1st route on the main wall.

FA: S.Squires, 1997

24 Sport 15m
15 * Mr Stagger Lee

FA: S.Squires,P.Lawlor, 1997

23 Sport 15m
16 ** Moan Groan Dial Tone

Start: On the slab 4m left of 'Libby the Lick'. Up the water scoop.

FA: P.Lawlor,M.Spinaze, 1996

22 Sport 15m
17 Exploding Budgies

Start: As for MGDT, then traverse up and left to the far left anchors crossing SOTC.

FA: S.Squires,M.Spinaze, 1996

19 Sport 15m
18 * Silence of the Cams

Start: 3m left of MGDT. Head straight up to anchors.

FA: S.Squires,D.Geraghty, 1996

19 Sport 15m, 5
19 The Reprieve

Start: The arete about 5m left of SOTC.

FA: S.Squires, 1996

19 Sport 15m
20 It's Crap Ray No.1

FFA: S Squires, 1996

6 Trad 10m
21 No Name 13 Trad 10m
22 It's Crap Ray No.2

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

6 Trad 10m
23 Ray's Toupee

FFA: S. Squires, 1996

13 Trad 10m
24 * Wowza

Up flake the left and through rooflet to crack

FA: C George, 2006

19 Trad 20m
25 Brooklyn

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

21 Sport 12m
26 Manhattan

FFA: M. Pricher, 1999

18 Sport 12m
27 Karmic Block

FFA: S. Squires, D. Geraghy, 1996

15 Trad 12m
28 New Rose (in Town)

FFA: S. Squires, 1999

8 Trad 10m
29 Islamic Cowgirls Cry "Jeehad!"

The right hand side of the slabby face about 50m left of previous route.

FFA: D. Geraghy, S. Squires, 1996

17 Sport 10m, 3
30 Jewish Cowboys Yell "(Netan) Yahoo"

Start just left of ICCJ.

Has no anchor. So either carefully traverse to the ICCJ anchor or climb back down.

FFA: S. Squires, D. Geraghy, 1996

20 Sport 10m, 3
31 Morris Chopsuey

FFA: S. Squires, D. Hartley, 1996

17 Trad 15m
32 *** Zadok the Priest 23 Sport 15m
33 * Metamorphosis 20 Sport 15m
34 * Mr Chippy 21 Sport 12m
35 Cranky Monkey

FA: John Croker, Mike Patterson, 2003

17 Unknown 15m
36 Lilly the Pink

FA: Mike Patterson, John Croker, 2003

14 Unknown 12m
37 * Floyd the Barber 15 Unknown 15m
38 Patterson's Pinnacle

FA: Mike Patterson, John Croker, 2003

14 Unknown 9m
39 ** The Raconteur 21 Sport 15m
40 The Worl According to RURP 15 Trad 15m
41 * Welsh Catharsis 21 Unknown 40m
42 Tombei the Mist 20 Unknown 20m
43 Project 3 project Unknown
44 Tofu & Vegies

Done ground up / onsite. Follow the seams and cracks heading generally straight up. Walk off and lower from tree.

Start: 2 meters left of Unknown 3.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 2009

18 Trad 10m Upper Tier 7 routes in Cliff
Trad, Sport and Aid

These routes are on the upper cliffline. Can be accessed via a gully to the left of Islamic Cowgirls - there's also a track that skirts the upper cliffline but it encroaches on 'private property' so please be discrete.

1.10.3. Chilli Boulder 3 routes in Crag

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 When Jellyfish Go Schmuck

FA: H.Sutton,Jones,Craswell

6 Unknown 10m
2 Computer Says Yes

FA: A.Jones,Sutton,Craswell

7 Unknown 12m
3 ?

FA: P.Craswell,Jones,Sutton

14 Unknown 12m

1.11. The Soft Parade 62 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.224885, -33.556037

Unique Features And Strengths:

A micro crag developed as a training area


Park at the Barden's Lookout carpark. Cross the road and walk back towards New York for 10 m or so then head into the bush and head diagonally rightwards following the faint trail and cairns. The final gully is between the Middle and Right Hand End. Turn left for the Right Hand End. Track ends at coordinates S33d33.393' E150d13.580' or GR425836

1.11.1. The Right Hand End 39 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Micro sports routes on slabs and features. A great area for beginner leaders and kids. The crag is very new so many of the climbs are still a bit sandy. A bit more traffic will fix this.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flyby

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

14 Sport 8m
2 Frequent Flyers

Up arete

FA: B Jung, 2013

12 Sport 6m
3 Frodo The Fearless

FA: B Jung, 2013

12 Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 S'easy

Short buttress with undercut start

FA: J Reay, 2012

10 Sport 8m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Up the Spout

Short slab crack with lower off. Great training ground for fledgling trad leads.

FA: M Warren, 2012

8 Trad 8m

Up the slab.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

16 Sport 8m, 3
7 Prompt Delivery

Up the slab.

0.5 metre to the right of ASAP.

FA: S Puchala, 2012

15 Sport 6m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Hanky Panky

A few metres right of Prompt Delivery.

FA: M Warren, 2012

16 Sport 8m, 6
9 * Devious Diversions

Up the middle of the slab.

FA: B Jung, 2012

16 Sport 10m, 5
10 Okipoki

3m right of Devious Diversions

FA: J Reay, 2012

14 Sport 10m, 5
11 25 Years On

1m left of SC. Start up past blocks moving right to crack. (needs ddb on top)

FA: A.Batey, 2013

9 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Soho Central

Up slab left of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

12 Sport 8m, 4
13 Honk On

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

FA: J Reay, 2012

11 Sport 8m, 4
14 Gender Warfare

Face 2m right of Honk On

FA: J Reay, 2012

17 Sport 10m, 4
15 Cast Iron Lullaby

Head left after first ring

FA: S Puchala, 2012

17 Sport 12m, 6
16 * George's Perspiration

Right hand route on the wall.

Start on the right hand edge of the block.

FA: George Kiji Muraoka, 2012

14 Sport 12m, 6
17 Visions Fade

The Arete

FA: S Puchala, 2012

15 Sport 10m
18 * Organic Donkey Milk Products Climb 1

Wall on right side of arete.

FA: M. Warren, 2013

18 Sport 12m
19 Squeeze Here


FA: S Puchala, 2013

12 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 * Split for Dinner

Face and arete on a buttress 10 right of Visions Fade

FA: M Warren, 2012

13 Sport 10m, 6
21 * Sensitive Freight

Corner and arete

FA: M Warren, 2012

15 Sport 10m, 5
22 Hot Jam Tart

Slab right of Sensitive Freight

FA: M Warren, 2012

19 Sport 6m, 3
23 Your Choice

Has two sets of anchors. Only grade 10 to first set.

FA: B Jung, 2012

14 Sport 10m, 5
24 The Last of the Jelly Beans

FA: B Jung, 2012

14 Sport 10m, 5
25 Upstairs Downstairs

20m right of The Last of the Jelly Beans

FA: B Jung, J Reay, 2013

17 Sport 12m
26 Jump on Board

10m right of Upstairs Downstairs. Start: On top of boulder.

FA: B Jung, 2013

27 Don't Believe What You're Told

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: J Reay, 2013

14 Sport 5m
28 Coventry Conection

Set by B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 2013

21 Sport
29 ** Double Decker Disco


FA: B Jung, 2013

17 Sport 12m
30 Gateway to the West

Corner crack start

FA: B. Jung, 2014

15 Sport 14m
31 YoYo Fever

First climb after alcove.

FA: B. Jung, 2014

14 Sport 10m