- Height: 45m
- Pitches: 2
- Description:© (Lee)
Good Quality trad climbing. Two vary different pitch's.
Start: Abseil 45m off southern arete to the very bottom. Start in crack just left of corner.
33m (24) Climb initial corner stepping right onto arete a few meters up. Onto ledge followed by tricky moves to gain good jam and jugs. Follow jugs up and to the right. Go straight up the wall, initially using the flake to the right. Thin gear follows. Belay on obvious ledge.
12m (23) Exciting little headwall. Climb 5m off the belay to the only gear on the pitch, proceed on to and over rooflet to some slopey moves. If you are unsure of your ability it may be worth scopeing and chalking this bit on the way down.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
First Ascent: Rowan Druce & Lee Cossey. alt., 2004
Located in Mitchells Ridge approx:
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Route Grade Citations
|24 R||Community registered grade|
|24 R **||★★ ACA Route Register|
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