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Access issues inherited from Mount York

Various gullies may be closed for remediation work at various times. Echo gully currently closed - Autumn 2016.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Vegetated corner crack

FA: W.Williams & H.Luxford, 1976

Start: Marked.

FA: G.Hill & S.Bullen, 1983

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

Undercut start through steep stuff around the left side of the Aunty Jack wall. Carrots (first with fixed hanger) and small wires.

Has a direct start at 21

FA: R.Vining, 1974

FA: J.Smoothy, 2000

Classic. Take a full rack with heaps of wires. Lower-offs were added, then chopped, and are still absent as at Oct 2015.

FA: Ross Vining + ?, 1974

Start as for Aunty Jack then straight up past bolts (take brackets) & gear. Has a good independent finish despite what the guide says. Much more sustained than Aunty Jack.

FA: G.Loins, 1986

very hard start

FA: R.Weigand & S.Knight, 1982

Ringbolts just left of corner to lower-off's. Hard start, then steady going.

FA: A. Penny, 1988

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.


Traverse left from Peppercorner to Red Robin and then up the arete

FA: R.Vining & B.Blunt, 1974

FA: G.Clark, 1983

Pleasant arete. Most people start 1m R of the arête for a few metres, then move left. The gear is in some opinions "good, but spaced", but in others' opinions this route is quite dangerous to half height particularly now that the wire slots are getting worn thanks to the soft rock. Take a rack including a 4 Friend, and a bolt plate in case Rattler's top carrot looks tempting.

FA: R.Vining, W.Williams & J.Lorinez, 1974

FA: B.Evans, S.Bunton & Lacy, 1984

FA: A.Prehn, G.Hill & J.Muir, 1980

FA: S.Knight, R.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1982

FA: S.Bullen, 1984

Get here early for this one.

FA: J Lorinez, W Williams & B Blunt


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