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Access issues inherited from Mount York

Various gullies may be closed for remediation work at various times. Echo gully currently closed - Autumn 2016.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

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Routes

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Grade Route

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth.

FA: Ivan Valenta

Classic.

Start: The corner.

The obvious wide corner crack.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Line of bolts between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete.

FA: G Short P Mort, 2008

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS

Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameterv- brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

Start: 12m right of 'Dragon's Tooth'.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979

Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab

Start: Up wall right of 'Technical Stuff'

FA: K Allen & C Coghill, 2009

Great wall climb. Thin in places. Rebolted 2009

Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy, S.Knight & R.Weigand, 1982

Up onto blocks then corner to top.

Start: Crack 3.5m right again.

FA: J.Bishop & J.Aalders, 1974

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princes DRBB lower off

FA: W. Williams, A Halkyard & K Melville, 2009

all carrots

FA: G.Short?, 2000

steep classic on good rock

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M.Grey & J.Smoothy, 1982

A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited. Although latest guidebook states attentative belayer required , no amount of attention avoids the nasty crux fall. Instead fix a 120cm sling to next bolt and clip where the bolt should be. Best rock in the Blueys!

Start: Start up easy groove as for Mal's then 3m to the right.

FA: Roger, 2008

Start: 5m right of MMR.

FA: G.Weigand & G.Clark, 1983

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