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Description

North facing crag apparently with older 70s and few more recent climbs. Access supposedly from Kanimbla Dr. Anyone with actual knowledge please update. Should also be child node like Blackheath Lookout.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Routes

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FA: K. Bell

Left then right side of arete via fixed hangers.

FA: K. Bell

Middle of wall. May be 2 carrots.

FA: Reynolds & K. Bell

Scrubby crack.

FA: H. Luxford & S. Kitchen

FA: H. Luxford & S. Kitchen

FA: H. Luxford & S. Kitchen

  1. Layback to ledge via BR

  2. Left up slab via 2 BR to BB on ledge

  3. Blind corner 2 BRs

FA: H. Luxford & K. Bell

FA: H. Luxford & K. Bell

Old access track here.

Start: Same as Absoloodle

Crack in right-facing ferny corner.

FA: H. Luxford & K. Bell

Ledge, left up diagonal crack, right tia arete via 3 BRs to break, 2 aid pitons then easily to bollard and piton belay on right.

Scrubby start then curving right-facing corner.

FA: K. Bell & R. Lassman

Start: 1m right of Polybius. Wall to breaks and BR.

FA: K. Bell & H. Luxford

Start: 1m right of Kerisal Out and up arete.

FA: K. Bell & C. Blunsden

Next 5 routes are 15m to right, head around crumbling ledge or down and to right via ferns.

Start: Same as Sargasso Sea. Up and left to arete via cams, top run out.

FA: C. Blunsden

Start: 4m left of corner. Small tree and breaks with cams to BR then left and up via 3 BRs to BB.

FA: K. Bell

Start: Same as Sargasso Sea. Right to corner that curves left at top via loose flake. Direct start to corner is 19.

FA: K. Bell & C. Blunsden

Start: 2m right of Sargasso Sea. Up most of Jericho to roof crack.

Next 3 routes are on ledge part of the way up 'Jericho' just before it curves to the left.

Up 'Jericho', step right, then out left and up arete via BRs.

Up 'Jericho', step right, then up middle of wall via BRs.

FA: K. Bell

Up 'Jericho', step right, then up right side of wall

FA: K. Bell

Back to track level

Loose gully 8m right of 'Jericho' Direct

FA: S. Kitchen & H. Luxford

Start: 2m right of Bitter Aloes. Marked LD. Not Pussy Galore. [Go figure! - Ed]

FA: H. Luxford & S. Kitchen

Start: 2m right of Pussy Galore. Run out or poor pro.

FA: K. Bell

Start: 9m right of Felix at slight corner

FA: F. Reynolds & K. Bell

Start: Same as Jokerman.

FA: H. Luxford & S. Kitchen

FA: H. Luxford & S. Kitchen

Start: Scooped red wall.

  1. (18m) Crux. Piton and BR to tree.

  2. (20m) Left arete and wall via BRs.

FA: J. Fantini & K. Bell

Corner to rising left crack then arete

FA: K. Bell & M. Toakley

Hand crack to fixed hanger.

FA: K. Bell

Left to arete via fixed hangers.

FA: K. Bell & M. Toakley

Start up 'Senile Dementia' then left on big flake then headwall via BRs.

FA: K. Bell & H. Luxford

Start: 5m right of Highliner at square corner. Up crack to tree.

FA: H. Luxford & K. Bell

Gully then left up orange streak.

FA: K. Bell & C. Blunsden

Gully then steep crack

FA: K. Bell

"Prominent ferny chimney"

FA: G. Mortimer & K. Bell

Start: 8m right of Ferny Chimney. Hand crack to tree and fixed hanger.

FA: K. Bell & M. Toakley

Step left via BRs and cams to flake

FA: B. Harrington & P. Burton, 1995

Crack in Donkey corner.

FA: K. Bell & G. Mortimer

Short corner.

"Prominent wide corner near where cliff changes direction" (apparent from east to north).

FA: K. Bell & G. Mortimer

Start: 3m left of chimney downhill form Tosca. Wide handcrack and headwall.

Start: 25 right of Tosca. "Obvious debris" [Spare me! - Ed]

Traverse across void and choss to vertical south-west facing wall.

Start: At flake 4m right of choss traverse. Up via BRs.

FA: G. James

Very good. Steep with tech moves for feet.

FA: FA Lloyd Wishart 2003

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