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Mt Blackheath Northern Walls

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Description

This is the north facing orange walls on 'Mt Blackheath', about 500m east of the hang glider ramp. If not for the 10m band of overhung vegetation for the first 10m off the ground, it'd be quite ok.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Approach

Descend the Blackheath Lookout descent track then head east.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Long wall - starts easily enough for about 15m then cranks up into reachy orange wall and pumpy finish. There is a chain on the flat rock at top that can be used to rap off with an 80m rope. 18ish draws.

A mix of water-polished "slab" and big grain crimpy wall climbing. Finishes with a little wave of steepness and mantle. To access fix a rope off trees and rap 45m down to large vegetated ledge (safe to walk around unroped). This is the right of the two bolted routes starting off this ledge. Two FHs to begin then the rest is u-bolts. Long draws, and a proper single length sling on the 10th bolt just after the flake section reduces ropedrag.

Similar to Forever War but steeper, pumpier and with an easier mantle finish. Rap in as for Forever War. This is the left route off the ledge. Stick-clip first bolt - and take care getting to 2nd bolt. At the 10th bolt drop down a move and traverse right along break for a metre then up (doing it direct is at least 2 grades harder).

Small corner, a couple of rusty carrots and an old double bolt belay with white sling halfway up wall. If you know more info please add! Topo line is a guess.

Carrots visible on orange wall up high. Not sure where this starts. If you know more info please add it!

Steep arete to the right of Blistering - overhangs about 4m. 3 star climbing but faff hanging belay knocks off a star. Find a single Ubolt & a FH above a black funnel (top of Blistering). Fix a rope and rap down - clipping a couple of bolts on the way down to hanging belay stance above vegetation.

FA: 10 Sep 2023

The steep corner crack up the middle of the North-facing orange walls, 300m E of Blackheath Lookout. Rap in to semi-hanging trad stance above vegetation.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth & Peter Monks, 1999

Packed full of fun from start to finish. Top of route is GPS -33.6413, 150.2514 - look for large cairn about 10m back from cliff edge - then walk towards cliff edge to find two Ubolts on shelf. Fix rap rope (not possible to pull down) and rap down ramp and then down orange wall. Clip a couple of bolts on the way to stay connected to cliff. Belay is a small cave about 15m above the ground - it's semi hanging when belaying but ok to sit down in between shots. Best to put on draws on as you rap as some clips are a bit tricky on lead. Route climbs a series of reachy shelves and edges - then traverse right a few metres then one of the best moves ever - the crucifix pocket dyno. Finish up sustained orange face.

FA: 10 Sep 2023

The finger-crack corner in orange rock in the lower cliffband, about 70m R of and below Blistering. Move R around roof and up crack above.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth & Rob Hadley, 1999

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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