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Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

As of May 2016 both the north gate (at Fairy Bower) and the south gate (at the Vipassana) are unlocked and open, which cuts 1-1.3km off the walk to all these crags.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The routes in this area are listed right to left as you come to them.

FA: M.Paynes, 1999

2
22 X Cheeky Thing Sport 8m

First bolt removed pending rebolt.. Doubt this will ever happen.

FA: B.Laursen, 1999

3

FA: I.Geatches, 1999

4
24 The Big Lebowski Sport 15m

Start: This and the next 2 routes share a common start.

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

5
27 * Mattie Potatie Sport 15m

FA: I.Geatches, 2000

6
28 * You Can Float Sport 25m

FA: I.Geatches, 2002

7

FA: mark payens

8
23 * Big in Japan Sport 25m

FA: Mark Payens

9
project Project (Mark) Unknown
10
19 * Sorcerers Apprentice Sport 20m

Lower off single bolt!

FA: J.Dodson, 1999

11
21 * Too Soft Sport 20m

FA: J.Dodson, 2000

12
24 Sorcerer Unknown 25m

FA: Ian Geatches

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