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Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

As of May 2016 both the north gate (at Fairy Bower) and the south gate (at the Vipassana) are unlocked and open, which cuts 1-1.3km off the walk to all these crags.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
26 ** Yumster Sport 25m

First route after the abseil. Overhanging corner.

FA: L.Wishart, 2003

2
26 *** Beastie Boyce Sport 30m

Overhanhing arete.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

3
23 ** Boisterous Sport 25m

Right of the arete. Shared start with Y & BBB. One of the best 23's around.

FA: L.Wishart, 2000

4
26 * Big Boyce Blouse Sport 30m

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

5
project Project (Giles) Unknown
6
24 * Fartflusher Sport 35m

Batman start.

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

7
Project Trad

FA: Giles/Lloyd, 2000

8
25 ** Rolls Boyce Sport 37m

this and the next route are about 30m to the right.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

9
25 ** Little Boyce Room Sport 26m

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

10
23 Unnamed Roof Crack Trad 60m 3

The very good looking crack just L of La Nina has reportedly been sent at about 23. (1) 20m 23 A short laser-cut finger crack leads to a sizeable diagonal roof crack. There's a belay 5m above the roof, with lots of tat and biners apparently for bailing off. (2) 25m The appealing orange wall above, looks like maybe 1 carrot and it probably joins the fat orange flake / oblique crack. There's another belay 15m from the top, with more tat. (3) 15m It probably tops out.

11
22 ** La Nina Trad 58m 3

The really good looking clean crack at the far right hand end above the rope access. Best to do the short pitches otherwise the 2nd faces ropestretch groundfall potential on the first crux, or the leader faces ropestretch ledgefall potential on the last crux. (1) 18m 22 Awesome finger crack. (2) 25m 17 Ok climbing on average rock, the pro is ok but will keep you thinking. (3) 15m 21 Burly roof crack then nice easy diagonal corner crack (obviously seen from Boronia).

FFA: G Bradbury & T Betherton, 1989

Activity

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