Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

Jan 2017:

Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2

Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.

This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

First route after the abseil. Overhanging corner.

FA: L.Wishart, 2003

Overhanhing arete.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

Right of the arete. Shared start with Y & BBB. One of the best 23's around.

FA: L.Wishart, 2000

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

Batman start. This route wanders left, then way right then back left and up so plenty of potential rope drag. Either use twin ropes or clip and unclip 2 bolts as you head back left after the ramp. Enjoyable but intimidating

FA: L.Wishart, 2002

FA: Giles/Lloyd, 2000

Start off cairn 20m right of Fartflusher. Up to break then head left to clip, up and back right clipping and unclipping 2 bolts to reduce rope drag(or use double ropes). Then you can attempt the crux and stunning water runnel above

Set by lloyd wishart

FA: lloyd wishart, 24 Aug 2017

this and the next route are about 30m to the right.

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

FA: L.Wishart, 2001

The very good looking crack just L of La Nina has reportedly been sent at about 23. (1) 20m 23 A short laser-cut finger crack leads to a sizeable diagonal roof crack. There's a belay 5m above the roof, with lots of tat and biners apparently for bailing off. (2) 25m The appealing orange wall above, looks like maybe 1 carrot and it probably joins the fat orange flake / oblique crack. There's another belay 15m from the top, with more tat. (3) 15m It probably tops out.

The really good looking clean crack at the far right hand end above the rope access. Best to do the short pitches otherwise the 2nd faces ropestretch groundfall potential on the first crux, or the leader faces ropestretch ledgefall potential on the last crux. (1) 18m 22 Awesome finger crack. (2) 25m 17 Ok climbing on average rock, the pro is ok but will keep you thinking. (3) 15m 21 Burly roof crack then nice easy diagonal corner crack (obviously seen from Boronia).

FFA: G Bradbury & T Betherton, 1989


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