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The walls surrounding the gully below the abseilers training area

© (wombly)

Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

As of May 2016 both the north gate (at Fairy Bower) and the south gate (at the Vipassana) are unlocked and open, which cuts 1-1.3km off the walk to all these crags.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

On dark orange face halfway down abseilers' track where it touches right side of gully.

FA: Niall Doherty & George Muraoka, 2010

First pitch trad, second pitch rings and carrots.

FA: D.White & D.Tweedie

Mostly trad with four ring bolts.

FA: Vince Day & Hugh Sutton

3 pitches, fully bolted.

Start: Follow abseilers track down the gully, past the big cave. Continue around on L hand side of gully (facing out) to the implement straight out of mad max

FA: Niall Doherty & Roger Bourne, 2007

FA: Niall Doherty & Roger Bourne, 2007


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