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Description

Short and steep sport climbing. 5 mins walk from the second carpark. All the old bolts and junk removed 12/12

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

Jan 2017:

Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2

Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.

This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.

Set by B Jung

FA: A Cummings, 2014

Very thin crux but good feet, make them work.

FA: G.Trutnovsky & M.Pircher, 1998

Funky thin move climbing over a flake start with a juggy top.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 2000

Tricky boulder off the ground then easy climbing.

FA: P.Stebbins, A.Drennen & B.Pearse, 1982

Shared start and first move with A Bird in the Bush, then hard traverse right and up delightful scoopy features. 2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. Use the anchor of Bird in a Bush over on the left (hard to clean from).

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

FA: N.Baker, 2002

Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp.

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

FA: G.Child & J.Smoothy, 1989

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

FA: V.Day, 2005

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

FA: vince day, 2004

FA: Open, 2000

Far left hand route.

FA: N.Sutter, 1997

Activity

Check out what is happening in Upper Wall.