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Description

Short and steep sport climbing. 5 mins walk from the second carpark. All the old bolts and junk removed 12/12

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 * Side Stepper Sport

Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.

Set by B Jung

FA: A Cummings, 2014

2
24 Monica's Gate Sport 12m

The second route you come to.

FA: G.Trutnovsky,M.Pircher, 1998

3
21 Vambrace Sport 15m

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 2000

4
23 Watergate Sport 15m

FA: P.Stebbins,A.Drennen,B.Pearse, 1982

5
24 Reaganomics Sport 13m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

6
25 * A Bird in the Bush Sport 12m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

7
27 mailorder meercat Sport 15m

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012

8
27 * Six-draw Tallboy Sport 10m

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

FA: N.Baker, 2002

9

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

FA: G.Child,J.Smoothy, 1989

10
31 * Leprosy Sport 15m

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

FA: V.Day, 2005

11
33 fury Sport 15m

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

FA: vince day, 2004

12
project Project Sport

FA: Open, 2000

13
28 * Mr. September Sport 8m

Far left hand route.

FA: N.Sutter, 1997