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Short and steep sport climbing. 5 mins walk from the second carpark. All the old bolts and junk removed 12/12

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

As of May 2016 both the north gate (at Fairy Bower) and the south gate (at the Vipassana) are unlocked and open, which cuts 1-1.3km off the walk to all these crags.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
17 Side Stepper Sport 12m

Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.

Set by B Jung

FA: A Cummings, 2014

24 * Monica's Gate Sport 12m

Very thin crux but good feet, make them work.

FA: G.Trutnovsky & M.Pircher, 1998

21 * Vambrace Sport 15m

Funky thin move climbing over a flake start with a muggy top.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 2000

23 * Watergate Sport 15m

Tricky boulder off the ground then easy climbing.

FA: P.Stebbins, A.Drennen & B.Pearse, 1982

24 * Reaganomics Sport 13m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

25 ** A Bird in the Bush Sport 12m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

27 mailorder meercat Sport 15m

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012

27 * Six-draw Tallboy Sport 10m

Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.

FA: N.Baker, 2002


Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp.

Now with proper lower off. 12/12

FA: G.Child & J.Smoothy, 1989

31 * Leprosy Sport 15m

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

FA: V.Day, 2005

33 fury Sport 15m

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

FA: vince day, 2004

project Project Sport

FA: Open, 2000

28 * Mr. September Sport 8m

Far left hand route.

FA: N.Sutter, 1997


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