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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.265790, -33.610459
- Description:© (mjw)
Short and steep sport climbing. 5 mins walk from the second carpark. All the old bolts and junk removed 12/12
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Right hand end of wall.. Up and traverse left staying low on traverse. Continue up to anchor.
Set by B Jung
FA: A Cummings, 2014
Very thin crux but good feet, make them work.
FA: G.Trutnovsky,M.Pircher, 1998
Funky thin move climbing over a flake start with a muggy top.
FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 2000
Tricky boulder off the ground then easy climbing.
FA: P.Stebbins,A.Drennen,B.Pearse, 1982
FA: J.Smoothy, 1984
A Bird in the Bush
FA: J.Smoothy, 1989
Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.
FA: Mathew Norgrove, 2012
Blunt arete 4m to the right of BB&B.
FA: N.Baker, 2002
Beaten, Bullied & Buggered
Boulder and pocket pulling test piece, well traveled but still sharp.
Now with proper lower off. 12/12
FA: G.Child,J.Smoothy, 1989
dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!
Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered
FA: V.Day, 2005
a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.
Start: 15 meters right of mr september.
FA: vince day, 2004
FA: Open, 2000
Far left hand route.
FA: N.Sutter, 1997
|25||A Bird in the Bush||12m|
|26||Beaten, Bullied & Buggered||815m,|