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Table of contents

1. Abseil Gully 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.264973, -33.610740

Description:

Generally, this area gets morning shade and arvo sun. More specifically: the Eyrie Wall gets sun from about 11am; Afghan Wall stays shady until about 1pm and the Girl in the Mirror Wall is shady until noon.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:

Drive N along Station St from Blackheath for about 2km until you get to the signposted "Parking Area No. 2". Park here (having a bit of clearance helps to get into the carpark). Walk downhill on an obvious track for 5 minutes. The sport crag found on your R is Vambrace Wall. Walk another 50m down from here and you're at the top of Abseil Gully.

Descent Notes:

This is a rap-in and climb-out crag. Best idea is to bring a dedicated abseil rope to fix in place all day. A short rope (25m) is enough for the Abseil Gully abseil, but if you leave a rope here you need to get used to the idea that it will almost certainly get used by everyone else at the crag. If you plan to climb mostly on Afghan Wall or Mean Streak Wall then it's most convenient to fix a 50m abseil rope down your chosen wall. That way you don't have a long barefoot scramble and don't have to carry walking shoes up every climb.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scruffocide

35m left of 'Abseil Slab'.

Start: Slab.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

17Trad 18m
2 Aceldama

Start: 20 left of AS.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

17Trad 15m
3 Abseil Slab

Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley, 1967

7Trad 34m
4 Frank and Joe

Start: 3m right of AS.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland, 1984

19Trad 17m
5 Abseil Arete

Start: Aret right of F&J.

FA: G.Owens,M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley, 1967

8Mixed 30m, 6
6 Abseil Corner

Originally done in 3 pitches.

FA: G.Owens,B.Smith,J.Millar, 1967

11Trad 34m
7 Eagle Wall

Start: Wall right of AC.

FA: B.Postill,G.Wurth, 1969

15 RTrad 40m
8 *** The Eyrie

Start: Left extremity of the black slab ,right of 'Abseil Gully'.

  1. 30m (12) Slab to cave. Chain belay.

  2. 12m (10) Cave to top.

FA: J Worral, H Ward

12Mixed 50m, 5
9 * Loitering With Intent

Traverse.

Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.

  1. 25m (-)

  2. 35m (14) Down, then right past carrot to belay on SI.

  3. 40m (14) Around nose, across TC and AfW to belay in CC.

  4. 25m (9) Finish up CC.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1985

14Trad 130m
10 ** Another Man's Juliet

Start: 1m right of E.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland, 1984

16Trad 48m
11 ** Set, Piece, Battle

Start: 2m right of AMJ.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland,J.Smoothy, 1985

14Trad 50m
12 Bonnie Scotland

Start: Centre of the 'Black Wall'.

FA: M.Clarbourgh,B.Shirley,G.Owens, 1967

13Trad 53m
13 This Ain't Gardening

Possibly never repeated.

Start: 'Arete' and black slab right of giant roof.

FA: R.Young,M.Portman, 1994

22Trad 45m
14 Old England

The first climb at Mt.Boyce.

Start: 6m right of BS.

  1. 27m (12) Corner to lip, left and up to secnd lip.

  2. 27m (12) Slightly left through bulge to top.

FA: M.Clarbourgh,G.Owens, 1967

12Trad 55m
15 * Sweet Irish

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

  1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge.

  2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to top.

FA: L.Smith,B.Postill, 1967

10Trad 49m
16 * Tongan Corner

Start: 3m right of SI.

  1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

  2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

FA: G.Owens,J.Wilson,L.Muzzatti, 1967

8Trad 60m
17 Atlantis

Start: 'Arete' 2m right.

  1. 24m (-) 'Arete' to belay 3m left on block.

  2. 36m (13) Onto arete, then up right side on steep wall. Back to arete, through overhang to top.

FA: B.Postill,B.Crouch, 1969

13Trad 60m
18 * Navel Excavator

15m (20 trad + carrots). Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed.

Start: Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of 'Abseil Gully'. Rap in (use a second rope) from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down. Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings.

FA: Smoothy, Bourne, 2005

20Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 Abseil Slab Trad 34m
8 Abseil Arete Mixed 30m, 6
* Tongan Corner Trad 60m
10 * Sweet Irish Trad 49m
11 Abseil Corner Trad 34m
12 Old England Trad 55m
*** The Eyrie Mixed 50m, 5
13 Atlantis Trad 60m
Bonnie Scotland Trad 53m
14 * Loitering With Intent Trad 130m
** Set, Piece, Battle Trad 50m
15 Eagle Wall Trad 40m
16 ** Another Man's Juliet Trad 48m
17 Aceldama Trad 15m
Scruffocide Trad 18m
19 Frank and Joe Trad 17m
20 * Navel Excavator Sport 15m
22 This Ain't Gardening Trad 45m