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Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

As of May 2016 both the north gate (at Fairy Bower) and the south gate (at the Vipassana) are unlocked and open, which cuts 1-1.3km off the walk to all these crags.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Links up with Endless Pleasure in a Limousine just beneath the overhang and shares the same anchors. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis.

FA: unknown

The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. Links up with Sweet Seduction in a Magazine just beneath the overhang. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed.

FA: G Oliver & J Corkins

Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".

  1. 23m (14) Up wall to belay 6m below ledge on orange wall. This has now been retrobolted with about 1000 shitty rings.

  2. 40m (14) Left, up to second ledge. Right 9m, then up on black wall.

FA: P.Jenkins & R.Lassman, 1967

4m right of Afghan Wall. Gear, BR's and FH's.Thru roof at top.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

3m right of WOMD nearly at KO start. gear and BR's and FH's

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Start: 5m right again.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1984

Start: 3 - 5m left of the corner.

FA: A.Penney & D.Magro, 1985

Start: The corner. 2 pitches.

FA: G.Owens, J.Wilson & L.Muzzatti, 1967


Start: To CC belay. Traverse right to finish up Shisenhousen.

FA: P.Webber & M.Moore, 1979

Start: As for AA to top of pedestal then to top.

FA: McMahon & Stallery, 1977

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

FA: G Short & W Williams

2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Start: 3m right of CC. Bouldery start.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

Pitch 1 (**22) is sport, 4 carrots to DBB. Highball boulder problem to the first bolt, stick clip if not up to it! Pitch 2 is trad 15, with one carrot at the top. Most people skip pitch 2 and step R to do Mean Streak pitch 2 instead.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1984

Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak. It can easily be linked into a single pitch but this is not wise as the second will hit the ground if they fall off the crux. Mostly bolts but a few medium cams and wires come in handy.

Great second pitch. When combined with 1st pitch of GitM you have a 3 star classic.

Start: Start 10m right of GitM.

  1. 25m (20) Lots of rambling, rolling and mantling. Not classic but is apparently worth doing. Trad and carrots.

  2. 25m (21) Up black streak. Mostly bolts but there's an optional small cam down low, plus a medium cam and wire up high to avoid an 8m runout to the final carrot.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

Start as for Free Hungary. The upper half of this route takes the prime central streak of orange rock and the hanging prow above, so it's gotta be good! Take heaps of cams. There is a shitty FH and blank section in the middle - the route bails left into Mean Streak, up for a move then back right into the line again.

FA: G.Child, A.Prehn & J.Smoothy, 1989

Start: As for FH, then left to black streak and up.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Child, 1989

Start: A few metres right of GitM. On ledge at big block.

  1. 27m (-) Up right to ledge on left of pedestal below arete.

  2. 14m (19) Up right 3m and up below semi-circular overhang. Left to cave then up to belay.

  3. 18m (-) Left then up and out.

FA: J.Worrall & R.Lassman, 1967

Start: 9m right of FH.

  1. 9m (10) face to ledge.

  2. 24m (10) Wall & corner, right to ledge. Up tending right to stance.

  3. 35m (10) Up right to top.

FA: G.Owens & M.Clarbourgh, 1967

Start: Corner & chimney 30m right.

  1. 40m (13) Take the line. 6m left at top. Then slab to tree belay?

  2. 15m (13) Left and up.

FA: J.Croker, 1974

Start: V groove with chockstone.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Fantini, 2000

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

  1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

  2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

  3. 18m (14) Crack.

FA: W.Williams & R.Vining, 2000

Start: 9m right again.

FA: B.Postill & P.Edwards, 1972


Check out what is happening in Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall.