A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.264700, -33.612337
- Description:© (secretary)
A stunning area with some very high quality routes and rock. Blue Mountains climbing at its best.
The Topo is referenced to the Pircher/Carter Blue Mountains climbing guide. Descriptions and Topo from Roger Bourne.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
The Master's Eggs
Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best.
Start: Start off tree at right end of slab.
FA: R Bourne, C Frost
Paul Thomson 1 years ago|
David O'Donnell 2 years ago
One of the Best
An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.
Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.
FA: Giles Bradbury and John Smoothy., 1990
Lap Lap Land
An alternative finish to 'Licking Holes Creek'. Lots of good holds all facing the wrong direction.
Start: Start as for first two pitches of LHC.
FA: R Bourne, G Bradbury, 2003
Cat's in the Cradle
This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and 'Jugantor'.
Start: Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.
FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly, 2006
Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes.
Start: Start to the right of One Of The Best.
FA: A Duckwoth, M Pircher, 2002
Licking Holes Creek
Another classic in this area.
Start: Start just left of the corner with the slab - opposite the huge fallen boulder. The is an old "H" on the rock - probably the start of Haggis which goes up the slab to the right.
FA: R. Bourne, 2003
"An excellent route" (Kyle D.)
Start: Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.
FA: R. Bourne, 2003
|19||Cat's in the Cradle||53m|
|22||Lap Lap Land||35m|
|23||The Master's Eggs||25m|
|Licking Holes Creek||60m|
|25||One of the Best||56m|