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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
Long/Lat: 150.264700, -33.612337
- Description:© (secretary)
A stunning area with some very high quality routes and rock. Blue Mountains climbing at its best.
The Topo is referenced to the Pircher/Carter Blue Mountains climbing guide. Descriptions and Topo from Roger Bourne.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
The Master's Eggs
Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best.
Start: Start off tree at right end of slab.
FA: R Bourne, C Frost
This and the next 2 routes are from the good old days.
Start: Chimney left of Haggis (probably between Master's Eggs and One of the Best).
FA: G.Owens,L.Muzzatti,F.Bell, 1967
One of the Best
An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.
Start: Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.
FA: Giles Bradbury and John Smoothy., 1990
Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes. An 80m rope gets you down without having to rap nor re-thread
Start: Start to the right of One Of The Best.
FA: A Duckwoth, M Pircher, 2002
Crack to piton (god knows what condition it is in)! then crack.
Start: Approx. 30m right of F. This makes it the vegetated corner between Plastic Sturgeon and Cats in the Cradle.
FA: G.Wurth,B.Postill, 1969
Cat's in the Cradle
Start: Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.
FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly
FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly, 2006
"An excellent route" (Kyle D.)
Start: Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.
FA: R. Bourne, 2003
Licking Holes Creek
Another classic in this area.
Start: Start just left of the corner with the slab - opposite the huge fallen boulder. The is an old "H" on the rock - probably the start of Haggis which goes up the slab to the right.
FA: R Bourne, A Duckworth
FA: R. Bourne, 2003
Lap Lap Land
An alternative finish to 'Licking Holes Creek'. Lots of good holds all facing the wrong direction.
Start: Start as for first two pitches of LHC.
FA: R Bourne, G Bradbury, 2003
Not too bad but pro is sparse.
Start: ? At the "H" at the bottom of 'Licking Holes Creek'.
FA: P.Jenkins,R.Lassman, 1967
|19||Cat's in the Cradle||353m|
|22||Lap Lap Land||35m|
|23||The Master's Eggs||325m|
|Licking Holes Creek||360m|
|26||One of the Best||256m|