Smallpox All Sport climbing7 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce
As of May 2016 both the north gate (at Fairy Bower) and the south gate (at the Vipassana) are unlocked and open, which cuts 1-1.3km off the walk to all these crags.
This area is on the upper cliffline above the left side of the Spoilt Brats wall. The most reliable way to find it is to walk in the same as for Walkdown Gully, until you are at the clifftop. Now follow a pretty good clifftop trail around to the R (N then E) for about 150m to Solo Gully, skirt round the back of this and continue along above the cliff (the trail less well defined here). You pass along the top of the crag, descend some easy rock shelves at the E end, then come back W along the base. Nothing too sketchy on the approach but take care while hanging out at the base of the routes as there is a 30m drop only a few metres away. An alternative approach is to leave the track about 200m before Walkdown Gully and head due north, this way is shorter ... if you don't get lost.© (secretary)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
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