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Short and steep and perched on the edge of a much bigger cliff. A good place for winter 'training' since it can be protected from the wind, and gets the sun during the day.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

Jan 2017:

Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2

Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.

This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.


This area is on the upper cliffline above the left side of the Spoilt Brats wall. The most reliable way to find it is to walk in the same as for Walkdown Gully, until you are at the clifftop. Now follow a pretty good clifftop trail around to the R (N then E) for about 150m to Solo Gully, skirt round the back of this and continue along above the cliff (the trail less well defined here). You pass along the top of the crag, descend some easy rock shelves at the E end, then come back W along the base. Nothing too sketchy on the approach but take care while hanging out at the base of the routes as there is a 30m drop only a few metres away. An alternative approach is to leave the track about 200m before Walkdown Gully and head due north, this way is shorter ... if you don't get lost.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Left hand route.

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

Artistic. Lower off chains of Vampy.

FA: R.Bourne, 2003

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002

FA: M.Pircher, 2002

FA: S.Bell & Mike File, 2002

Still has the tag, but has been freed at 26.

Set by Felix Pircher

The very R end of the ledge - watch the drop below!

FA: A.Duckworth, 2002


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