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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The Area between 'Solo Gully' and Walkdown 'Gully'. Best access is via Walkdown 'Gully'.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 * Curtains for the Khymer Unknown 25m

Needs rebolting.

Start: 'Flake' just inside 'Solo Gully'.

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1981

2
24 *** 25th Floor Sport 25m

Rebolted 2004. More like 'Arapiles' that the Blue Mtns. Very good sustained climbing in a creepy environment makes this one feel much harder than it really is. 'Excellent' on a hot day and has a viewing gallery on the opposite wall of the chasm.

Start: Short steep corner/flake 5m up the gully. Follow the U-bolts. Supplementary cams (small and medium) are a comfort.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

3

Right side of 'Solo Gully'. Overhang past piton. Then Wall to tree!

FA: C.Martin,L.Trihey, 1984

4
20 Hands Up Trad 45m

Overhang 3m right of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 10m (16) Left to ledge.

  2. 15m (20) Up to orange scoop, then up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

5
13 Hands Down Trad 64m

Start: Ledge at bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 35m (13) Traverse right, down, up to spike, then to high ledge and bollard near corner.

  2. 35m (13) Return to spike. Then straight up...

FA: K.Royce,B.Postill, 1972