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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The Area between 'Solo Gully' and Walkdown 'Gully'. Best access is via Walkdown 'Gully'.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
9 Haggis Unknown 49m
2
23 * Curtains for the Khymer Unknown 25m
3
24 25th Floor Unknown 25m
4

Right side of 'Solo Gully'. Overhang past piton. Then Wall to tree!

FA: C.Martin,L.Trihey, 1984

5
20 Hands Up Trad 45m

Overhang 3m right of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 10m (16) Left to ledge.

  2. 15m (20) Up to orange scoop, then up.

FA: C.Martin,R.Chick, 1984

6
13 Hands Down Trad 64m

Start: Ledge at bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 35m (13) Traverse right, down, up to spike, then to high ledge and bollard near corner.

  2. 35m (13) Return to spike. Then straight up...

FA: K.Royce,B.Postill, 1972

7
15 ** Wild is the Wind Trad 70m

Start: On a flat rock at the large eucalypt at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

  1. 40m (15) Up 3m to carrot then traverse R 10m (small cams). Up to another carrot then R 10m to double rings on far side of ledge.

  2. 20m (15) Awkward move up the corner and onto the left face. Up (wires in corner crack) and right onto the face. Follow carrots R across wall and up to cave. Double ring belay in back of cave or double carrots at the edge of the cave.

  3. 20m (14) Scarey move out of the cave to pull up onto the wall. Follow carrots straight up. Mid sized cams can supplement the carrots. Belay off big tree 10 back or double rings 5m over to the right.

FA: Roger

8
20 Far Q 2 Aid 43m

Start: On grassy ledge 10m right of the gully.

FA: B.Postill,K.Royce,S.Royce, 1972

9

Start: 6m left of 'Fire Bug'.

FA: A.Duckworth,W.Monks, 1998

10
17 *** Fire Bug Trad 76m

The obvious line.

  1. 30m (17) Hard start.

  2. 15m (17) Corner to belay beneath block.

  3. 24m (17) Negotiate blocks, steep corner, sloping shelf. Left crack and cave.

  4. 6m (-) Left and out. Watch out for abseilers!

FA: John Ewbank, John Fantini

11
26 ** Superbug Sport 25m

Arete 1m right of Firebug.

Start: Start up Firebug then swing right onto the face below the nose.

FA: S.Bell, 2002

12
20 * Light My Fire Sport 30m

Rap in to large ledge with chain. Climb up veering left to above Firebug. Follow rings to 2 alternative finishes.

FA: Roger Bourne

13
14 ** Baby Carrots Sport 35m

Rap in from top above Bronze Orange Bug/Bug Free to double rings. Many glue in carrots to top.

FA: Roger Bourne

14
12 M6 Bronze Orange Bug Aid 58m

Free grade at 25

15
13 Passion Vine Hopper Unknown 43m
16
17
19 *** Vincent HRD Trad 67m

freed in the early eighties if it stays clean should become a classic

FFA: john smoothy, 1983

18
19 *** Thruxton Unknown 58m
19
14 * Little Johnny Unknown 30m

Right of air 2 spare on carrots

FA: 2007

20
14 Manx Unknown 64m
21
14 Bonnieville Unknown 64m
22
14 Air 2 Spare Mixed 35m, 10

trad + 10 bolt plates. Rap from top of Goldstar. Abseil rings are in the "cave" 10m right of Goldstar. Abseil 35m past 10 carrots tending slightly left (facing cliff). Double ring belay on a grey nose about 20m above ground. Take care not to abseil past the belay as ascent may be highly problematic and your rope probably won't reach the ground. Take medium wires, slings, large hexes, and a few medium cams. (Or just bolt plates and run it out).

23
18 Cow Chaser Unknown 20m

FA: Farty Paul, R Bourne

24
18 *** Gold Star Trad 58m
  1. 30m (16) Crack to ledge.

  2. 28m (18) 'Steep' crack to top.

FA: B.Allen,R.Lassman, 1972

25
16 *** Gold Star Pitch 1 Sport 30m

FA: Bryden Allen, Ray Lassman

26
21 Half Life Unknown 35m
27
20 * Grand Slam 2008 Sport 20m

Rings and bolts right of Goldstar

FA: Tony Williams/Nick T, 2008

28
19 My Mate Matey Unknown 25m
29
24 ** Bug Proboscis Sport 30m

An even more airy finish to 'Superbug'.

Start: 'Superbug'. Continue 10m past the top of 'Superbug' to chains.

  1. 30m (24)

  2. -m (-)

FA: R. Bourne, 2004

30
25 ** Shock And Awe Trad 75m

Start: QUICK ACCESS TO P2: Climb spikes 20m left of Superbug/Firebug and then traverse left 15m to get to the start of P2.

ORIGINAL ACCESS:

Traverse in around ledge at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'. This is easy but a bit scarey. Can be protected with a couple of medium cams. Belay on double rings

  1. 25m (22) Descend and climb out to arete. Ring just around the corner. Now traverse right and slightly downward on pumpy jugs to double ring semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (25) Crank and heelhook madly up to the horizontal break for a lie down rest in the slot. Thin and reachy power cranking gets you up the next blank section, then more easily up to the steep headwall. Straight up to double rings in the cave roof, or (the original line), traverse right and up to the Angels belay.

  3. 25m (23) Move to double rings at the left end of the cave. Pull up through the roof crack and then onto the hanging orange wall. Up the wall diagonally right and then pull through the roof above to the left of the rings. Double rings belay over to the left.

FA: R Bourne, 2003

31
25 Bug Free Trad

Free version of 'Bronze Orange Bug'

32

Utterly absorbing climbing all the way with two tricky cruxes

Start: EASY APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and traverse left 10m.

FA: R Bourne, 2003

33
27 *** Better Than Wife Sport 30m

Unbelievably good fun with fantastic climbing all the way.

Start: Start as for 'Bug Free' at the ugly undercut arete.

FA: R Bourne, 2004