Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

As of May 2016 both the north gate (at Fairy Bower) and the south gate (at the Vipassana) are unlocked and open, which cuts 1-1.3km off the walk to all these crags.

Approach

Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
11 * Diversion Trad 55m, 2

The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.

Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.

  1. 24m (11) Crack to cavern.

  2. 30m (11) Up chimney then right.

FA: W.Williams & P.Giles, 1972

2
14 * Roughly Yours Trad 61m

Start: Ramp. Then up.

FA: Graham ? & J.Wurth, 1972

3
23 * The Wages of Sin Trad 50m

FA: J.Smoothy & C.Martin, 1984

4
14 ** Gently Mine Trad 58m

P1: Follow crack up to belay stance. DBB.

P2: head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. Take brackets for BRs and for anchor at top. Anchor in need of rebolt, use with caution. 50m rap to ground

FA: L Smith & W Williams

5

FA: C.Martin, J.Smoothy & G.James, 1985

6
21 ** Pig Iron Slaughter Trad 45m

Up left side of arete. Take small cams and a set of nuts for the bottom, 4BR's at top. DBB.

Rebolted May 2007

FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & L.Trihey, 1984

7
16 ** The Gates of Janus Trad 50m

P1: Start as for PIS, right into corner and up. Go left under bulge at top to anchors as for Gently Mine.

P2: head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. Take brackets for BRs and for anchor at top. Anchor in need of rebolt, use with caution. 50m rap to ground

FA: K Bell & H Bevan

8
20 R * Took Crook Trad 64m, 3

Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.

  1. 11m (20) Thin crack then left to mantle.

  2. 26m (20) Crack, overhang, right and up to cave.

  3. 27m (20) 'Steep' wall left of cave.

FFA: K.Bell, G.Mortimer, J.Morgan. (. B.Allen & W.Williams), 1972

9
15 Sally Trad 43m

Start: Crack to the right.

FA: Graham.? & J.Wurth, 1972

10
10 Kite Eater Unknown 61m
11
9 Peppermint Pattie Trad 61m, 2

Start 10m left of Charlie Brown on slabby face - very faint square and PP just visible on rock.

P1 - up slab to large ledge with dead trees (30m) P2 - up face on jugs to top. (30m)

Take care on the top pitch, rock quality is iffy

FA: B Postill & B. Smith, 1968

12
11 Charlie Brown Trad 55m, 2

A slab with little pro. Start on wall 10m left of Pig Pen

P1 Up wall and slab to large ledge (30m) P2 Up on jugs o top (24m)

FA: B Postill & I Smith, 1967

13
9 Pig Pen Trad 46m, 2

P1. Overgrown Chimney to ledge.

P2. Up left from ledge, then trend right along slab following the crack to top. Walk out.

Take lots of slings. All natural anchors.

14
17 * Freewheeling Trad 26m
15
20 ** Shulz Sux Unknown 50m
16
21 Craigs Effort Unknown 25m
17
14 * Snoopy Unknown 64m
18
20 Olympic Trivia Unknown 20m
19
20
23 ** Museum of Fire Unknown 30m
21
13 Lucy Unknown 64m
22
16 Woodstock Unknown 76m
23
14 Schroeder Unknown 90m
25
16 Eeyore Unknown 70m
26
15 Piglet Unknown 79m
27
18 * El Matador Unknown 92m
28
14 El Cid Unknown 100m
29
14 El Zorro Unknown 57m
30
15 * Wizard of Id Unknown 98m
31
13 M2 King of Id Aid 60m
32
12 M2 Fair Maiden Gwen Aid 60m
33
14 M2 Rodney Aid 60m
34
8 Blanch Unknown 46m
35
13 P.P.P.P. Unknown 76m
36
13 Gronk Unknown 70m
37
18 Kamikaze Unknown 61m
38
14 Phillip's Climb Unknown 55m
39
12 The Fruits of War Unknown 36m

Activity

Check out what is happening in Walk-down Gully.