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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 Diversion Trad 55m

The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.

Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.

  1. 24m (11) Crack to cavern.

  2. 30m (11) Up chimney then right.

FA: W.Williams,P.Giles, 1972

2
14 Roughly Yours Trad 61m

Start: Ramp. Then up.

FA: Graham ?,J.Wurth, 1972

3
23 The Wages of Sin Trad 50m

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984

4
14 ** Gently Mine Trad 58m

FA: L Smith, W Williams

5

FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy,G.James, 1985

6
21 ** Pig Iron Slaughter Trad 45m

Rebolted May 2007

Start: Left side of the arete.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy,L.Trihey, 1984

7
16 ** The Gates of Janus Trad 50m

Start: As for PIS, right into corner and up.

FA: K Bell, H Bevan

8
20 R * Took Crook Trad 64m

Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.

  1. 11m (20) Thin crack then left to mantle.

  2. 26m (20) Crack, overhang, right and up to cave.

  3. 27m (20) 'Steep' wall left of cave.

FFA: K.Bell,G.Mortimer,J.Morgan. (. B.Allen,W.Williams), 1972

9
15 Sally Trad 43m

Start: Crack to the right.

FA: Graham.?,J.Wurth, 1972

10
10 Kite Eater Unknown 61m
11
9 Peppermint Pattie Trad 61m
12
11 Charlie Brown Unknown 55m
13
9 Pig Pen Unknown 46m
14
17 * Freewheeling Trad 26m
15
20 * Shulz Sux Unknown 50m
16
21 Craigs Effort Unknown 25m
17
14 * Snoopy Unknown 64m
18
20 Olympic Trivia Unknown 20m
19
20
23 ** Museum of Fire Unknown 30m
21
13 Lucy Unknown 64m
22
16 Woodstock Unknown 76m
23
14 Schroeder Unknown 90m
25
16 Eeyore Unknown 70m
26
15 Piglet Unknown 79m
27
18 * El Matador Unknown 92m
28
14 El Cid Unknown 100m
29
14 El Zorro Unknown 57m
30
15 Wizard of Id Unknown 98m
31
13 M2 King of Id Aid 60m
32
12 M2 Fair Maiden Gwen Aid 60m
33
14 M2 Rodney Aid 60m
34
8 Blanch Unknown 46m
35
13 P.P.P.P. Unknown 76m
36
13 Gronk Unknown 70m
37
18 Kamikaze Unknown 61m
38
14 Phillip's Climb Unknown 55m
39
12 The Fruits of War Unknown 36m