A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityUnknown, Trad and Aid
Long/Lat: 150.262536, -33.615089
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Approach:© (mjw)
Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.
Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.
FA: W.Williams,P.Giles, 1972
steven timbrell 9 years ago|
Start: Ramp. Then up.
FA: Graham ?,J.Wurth, 1972
Tony Williams 5 years ago|
The Wages of Sin
FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984
Paul Thomson 2 years ago|
FA: L Smith, W Williams
Rod Smith 1 years ago|
Graham Jones 1 years ago
Divide and Dissolve
FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy,G.James, 1985
Nick Clow 3 years ago|
Tony Williams 5 years ago
Pig Iron Slaughter
Rebolted May 2007
Start: Left side of the arete.
FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy,L.Trihey, 1984
lucky chance 11 months ago|
Paul Thomson 1 years ago
The Gates of Janus
Start: As for PIS, right into corner and up.
FA: K Bell, H Bevan
Paul Thomson 2 years ago|
Boyd Robinson 2 years ago
Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.
FFA: K.Bell,G.Mortimer,J.Morgan. (. B.Allen,W.Williams), 1972
Start: Crack to the right.
FA: Graham.?,J.Wurth, 1972
Mike Patterson 8 years ago|
Niall Doherty 5 years ago|
Keith Hannan 6 years ago
Keith Hannan 6 years ago|
Vanessa Wills 6 years ago
Rod Smith 7 years ago|
Nathan Poole 7 years ago
|19||Professional Fat Lamb Man||18||20m|
|20||Museum of Fire||23||30m|
|24||Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot||19||76m|
|30||Wizard of Id||15||98m||
Josh Caple 6 years ago|
Mike Patterson 9 years ago
|31||King of Id||13 M2||60m|
|32||Fair Maiden Gwen||12 M2||60m|
Mike Patterson 7 years ago|
|39||The Fruits of War||12||36m|
Start: First pitch as for Manx.
FA: G.Wurth,B.Postill, 1972
Right hand side of the gully coming down.
Start: Streno crack, overhung corner and roof to top.
FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1977
3m right of VHRD. The finger/hand crack now full of ferns. Best left that way.
FA: B.Allen,W.Williams, 1972
Start as for Manx/Bonnieville then follow the carrots up the wall and over the boulder/roof at the top. Take small cams, a medium wire, and a #3 Camalot or similar for the start
FA: Paul Turner, R Bourne, 2004
30m left of the 'Gully', on ledge.
FA: P.Jenkins,K.Joyce,B.Postill, 1972
Easy climbing after an exciting rap in to a semi-hanging belay.
Start: Rap 35m off two rings in the overhang about 10m right (facing out) of the top of Goldstar. Clip in to carrots on the way down.
FA: Susan Hoernlein, Paul Turner, 2004
Start as for VHRD.
FA: B.Postill,P.Edwards, 1972
|The Fruits of War||36m|
|12 M2||Fair Maiden Gwen||60m|
|13 M1||Vincent HRD||57m|
|13 M2||King of Id||60m|
|Wizard of Id||98m|
|The Gates of Janus||50m|
|Professional Fat Lamb Man||20m|
|19||Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot||76m|
|Pig Iron Slaughter||45m|
|23||Divide and Dissolve||45m|
|Museum of Fire||30m|
|The Wages of Sin||50m|