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Table of contents

1. Walk-down Gully 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.262536, -33.615089

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (mjw)

Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Diversion

The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.

Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.

  1. 24m (11) Crack to cavern.

  2. 30m (11) Up chimney then right.

FA: W.Williams,P.Giles, 1972

11Trad 55m
2 Roughly Yours

Start: Ramp. Then up.

FA: Graham ?,J.Wurth, 1972

14Trad 61m
3 The Wages of Sin

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984

23Trad 50m
4 ** Gently Mine

FA: L Smith, W Williams

14Trad 58m
5 * Divide and Dissolve

FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy,G.James, 1985

23Trad 45m
6 ** Pig Iron Slaughter

Rebolted May 2007

Start: Left side of the arete.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy,L.Trihey, 1984

21Trad 45m
7 ** The Gates of Janus

Start: As for PIS, right into corner and up.

FA: K Bell, H Bevan

16Trad 50m
8 * Took Crook

Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.

  1. 11m (20) Thin crack then left to mantle.

  2. 26m (20) Crack, overhang, right and up to cave.

  3. 27m (20) 'Steep' wall left of cave.

FFA: K.Bell,G.Mortimer,J.Morgan. (. B.Allen,W.Williams), 1972

20 RTrad 64m
9 Sally

Start: Crack to the right.

FA: Graham.?,J.Wurth, 1972

15Trad 43m
10 Kite Eater 10Unknown 61m
11 Peppermint Pattie 9Trad 61m
12 Charlie Brown 11Unknown 55m
13 Pig Pen 9Unknown 46m
14 * Freewheeling 17Trad 26m
15 * Shulz Sux 20Unknown 50m
16 Craigs Effort 21Unknown 25m
17 * Snoopy 14Unknown 64m
18 Olympic Trivia 20Unknown 20m
19 Professional Fat Lamb Man 18Unknown 20m
20 ** Museum of Fire 23Unknown 30m
21 Lucy 13Unknown 64m
22 Woodstock 16Unknown 76m
23 Schroeder 14Unknown 90m
24 Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot 19Unknown 76m
25 Eeyore 16Unknown 70m
26 Piglet 15Unknown 79m
27 * El Matador 18Unknown 92m
28 El Cid 14Unknown 100m
29 El Zorro 14Unknown 57m
30 Wizard of Id 15Unknown 98m
31 King of Id 13 M2Aid 60m
32 Fair Maiden Gwen 12 M2Aid 60m
33 Rodney 14 M2Aid 60m
34 Blanch 8Unknown 46m
35 P.P.P.P. 13Unknown 76m
36 Gronk 13Unknown 70m
37 Kamikaze 18Unknown 61m
38 Phillip's Climb 14Unknown 55m
39 The Fruits of War 12Unknown 36m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Blanch Unknown 46m
9 Peppermint Pattie Trad 61m
Pig Pen Unknown 46m
10 Kite Eater Unknown 61m
11 Charlie Brown Unknown 55m
Diversion Trad 55m
12 The Fruits of War Unknown 36m
12 M2 Fair Maiden Gwen Aid 60m
13 Gronk Unknown 70m
Lucy Unknown 64m
P.P.P.P. Unknown 76m
13 M2 King of Id Aid 60m
14 El Cid Unknown 100m
El Zorro Unknown 57m
** Gently Mine Trad 58m
Phillip's Climb Unknown 55m
Roughly Yours Trad 61m
Schroeder Unknown 90m
* Snoopy Unknown 64m
14 M2 Rodney Aid 60m
15 Piglet Unknown 79m
Sally Trad 43m
Wizard of Id Unknown 98m
16 Eeyore Unknown 70m
** The Gates of Janus Trad 50m
Woodstock Unknown 76m
17 * Freewheeling Trad 26m
18 * El Matador Unknown 92m
Kamikaze Unknown 61m
Professional Fat Lamb Man Unknown 20m
19 Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot Unknown 76m
20 Olympic Trivia Unknown 20m
* Shulz Sux Unknown 50m
* Took Crook Trad 64m
21 Craigs Effort Unknown 25m
** Pig Iron Slaughter Trad 45m
23 * Divide and Dissolve Trad 45m
** Museum of Fire Unknown 30m
The Wages of Sin Trad 50m