A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityUnknown, Trad and Aid
Long/Lat: 150.262536, -33.615089
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Approach:© (mjw)
Routes to the left and right of The 'Gully'. Routes are listed LEFT to RIGHT.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
The following climbs are situated to the left of the gully coming down.
Start: Large crack/chimney inside the gully.
FA: W.Williams,P.Giles, 1972
Start: Ramp. Then up.
FA: Graham ?,J.Wurth, 1972
The Wages of Sin
FA: J.Smoothy,C.Martin, 1984
FA: L Smith, W Williams
Divide and Dissolve
FA: C.Martin,J.Smoothy,G.James, 1985
Pig Iron Slaughter
Rebolted May 2007
Start: Left side of the arete.
FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy,L.Trihey, 1984
The Gates of Janus
Start: As for PIS, right into corner and up.
FA: K Bell, H Bevan
Start: Ledge 10m right of GoJ.
FFA: K.Bell,G.Mortimer,J.Morgan. (. B.Allen,W.Williams), 1972
Start: Crack to the right.
FA: Graham.?,J.Wurth, 1972
|19||Professional Fat Lamb Man||18||20m|
|20||Museum of Fire||23||30m|
|24||Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot||19||76m|
|30||Wizard of Id||15||98m|
|31||King of Id||13 M2||60m|
|32||Fair Maiden Gwen||12 M2||60m|
|39||The Fruits of War||12||36m|
|12||The Fruits of War||36m|
|12 M2||Fair Maiden Gwen||60m|
|13 M2||King of Id||60m|
|Wizard of Id||98m|
|The Gates of Janus||50m|
|Professional Fat Lamb Man||20m|
|19||Realised Ultimate Reality Gumboot||76m|
|20 R||Took Crook||364m|
|Pig Iron Slaughter||45m|
|23||Divide and Dissolve||45m|
|Museum of Fire||30m|
|The Wages of Sin||50m|