- Height: 35m
- Bolts: 10
- Ascents: 27
- Description:© (rogerb)
Easy climbing after an exciting rap in to a semi-hanging belay.
Start: Rap 35m off two rings in the overhang about 10m right (facing out) of the top of Goldstar. Clip in to carrots on the way down.
trad + 10 bolt plates. Rap from top of Goldstar. Abseil rings are in the "cave" 10m right of Goldstar. Abseil 35m past 10 carrots tending slightly left (facing cliff). Double ring belay on a grey nose about 20m above ground. Take care not to abseil past the belay as ascent may be highly problematic and your rope probably won't reach the ground. Take medium wires, slings, large hexes, and a few medium cams. (Or just bolt plates and run it out).
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
First Ascent: Susan Hoernlein & Paul Turner, 2004
Located in Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|12||Community registered grade|
|12 *||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 53%
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