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Description:

One of the best routes at this grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Tackles the disconnected flake system up the centre of this awesome wall. It's ok to lead from the ground to the top of pitch 2 and lower off, if you're careful about extending gear and have a 60m+ rope.

  1. 12m 15. Just access. Bridge small tree to ledge, then short corner (small cams, wires). Traverse 4-5m L to double ring belay 8m off the ground.

  2. 25m 21. Follow the stellar flakes. One or 2 med cams up the initial flake, otherwise all ringbolts. Step left on the ledge to a DRB anchor (evidently positioned as a multipitch belay, but a bit awkward to lower off). Most people lower/rap off from here without continuing.

  3. 10m 18?. Rarely done. The steep little headwall, might still have 1 rusty old carrot somewhere if it hasn't fallen out. Top out, walk off.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: john smoothy mike law, 1984

  • First Ascent: C.Martin & A.Penney, 1984

Location:  

Located in Spoilt Brats Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.264575,-33.613618

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 ** RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
21(S) *** Blue Mountains Climbing
21 *** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
21 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 86%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid sustained cool nice perfect good brilliant great wicked classic awesome scary flake crap rest interesting jugs traverse technical

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