Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Mt Hay | ||||||||
15 | ★ Monks Wall (more direct finish) | 80m | ★ Good | Sat 12th Aug 2017 | ||||
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16 16 R | ★★ Monks Wall | 290m, 2 | Sun 27th Sep 1998 | |||||
16 16 R | ★★ Monks Wall | 290m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 12th Aug 2017 | ||||
Great day out in a spectacular and adventurous area. The rock is pretty poor and feels a little porous, so select cautiously.
Amazing passage through 2 overhangs on P4 & P5, very lucky key features just like climbing overhanging greens at St Leonards gym. Melissa Thomas on ★★ Monks Wall 16 R - P4 atmospheric belay |
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16 16 R | ★★ Monks Wall | 290m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2017 | ||||
Pretty sure we picked the right line, found the key feature of thin plates exiting a cave to the right (P4 belay). However, when I got there, no bolt as expected, and actually, I was 1 level beneath the belay. Should've looked high left and would've seen Hayden's 20 year old piton still in-place.
Decided to abseil rather than continue up into the unknown. |
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21 | Black Slab | 89m, 3 | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
put this up with hayden ages ago when it was 17 M1
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21 | Black Slab | 89m, 3 | Sat 2nd Aug 1997 | |||||
16 | Middle Slab | 110m, 2 | Fri 28th Nov 1997 | |||||
16 | Seismic Daks Splitter | 310m | Average | Sat 2nd Apr 2005 | ||||
great ** off width pitch 4
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16 | Seismic Daks Splitter | 310m | Sat 6th Dec 1997 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★ Very Good | 1999 | ||||
great day out!
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | 2005 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Sun 11th Dec 2005 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★ Good | Sun 14th Dec 2003 | ||||
With Dave Gell. SRC pitch #'s: p1/2: OS, p3/4: 2nd, p5: OS (placed 4 or 5 bits in 58 m!), p6: 2nd (great pitch), p7: OS, p8: 2nd (we did some weird rope work on this one!), p9/10 OS (need at least #4 camalot to protect last pitch). Bomber belay way back in boulder (not burnt shrubs!).
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Jan 2008 | ||||
With Rick. I led 1,3,5,7,8. Bloody hot. Not a classic ... and probably more like 16 in places.
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2000 | ||||
with Cate. 3.5hr ascent car to car
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Don't Bother | Sat 27th Nov 2004 | ||||
Far too much scrambing up dirt for my liking
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Average | Sun 29th Feb 2004 | ||||
too many bushy ledges. me pitch 3,4,6,7,10. adrian W p1,2,5,8,9
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Sun 21st May 2006 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Average | Sat 4th Apr 1998 | ||||
good trip
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★ Good | 1999 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Don't Bother | 2003 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Average | Sat 5th Apr 2003 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Jul 2003 | ||||
brilliant steep aretes
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★ Good | Sat 11th Dec 2010 | ||||
11 December 2010. Led pitches: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9. Second pitches: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10. A few borderline unprotectable pitches, probably some sections are harder than the advertised grade, almost as much bushwalking/gardening as there is climbing, moderately crappy rock... And amongst all of this, a few sections of funky adventure climbing.
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Mon 1st Jan 2007 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Rod Smith, John Shaw | 380m | ★ Good | Sat 5th Oct 2013 | ||||
6th pitch is the pearl of this marathon. Led pitches 2, 5 and 9. 8.5hrs descent to topout
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Oct 2013 | ||||
With JB and Sean. I led P1, 4, 6, 8. Sean led 2, 5, 9. JB led 3, 7. Took us 8.5 hours. 8am started first pitch. 4.30pm topped out. Seconds simulclimbed (on belay) every pitch but the first. First pitch is still concerning.
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Fri 29th Oct 2010 | |||||
7 hrs car to car
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Sun 19th Jan 2014 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Sep 2014 | ||||
Fantastic mountain adventure - feels remote, great scenery & nice climbing. We found enough gear placements to be happy, but did pull a few holds off!
We linked pitch 8 & 9, up the chossy chimney to 1st roof, a committing step left to good holds, then an easy off-width body-jam up to the next cave & back you're on-route. |
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Nina, Terry, Dariusz Kordonski, Amy | 380m | ★ Good | Sun 15th Mar 2015 | ||||
Would recommend going straight up the chimney rather doing the weird traverse shenanigans ....
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13 |
★★ Margarine Ridge
- with
Rene Provis, James
1
lead by
Rene
2
lead by
Rene
3
lead by
Rene
4
lead by
Rene
5
lead by
Me
6
lead by
Me
7
lead by
Me
8
lead by
Bulti
9
lead by
Bulti
10
lead by
Bulti
| 380m | ★ Good | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||
P5-7 were great!! The rest was average to poor but is a great day out in an amazing place!
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 380m | Sat 11th Dec 2010 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Lorraine | 380m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 20th Sep 2016 | ||||
Classic for those who like this type of thing. Faffed a bit on the way in (read: slept through alarm) and started climbing by 10am. Some decent rock between loose bushwalks. Some seriously dubious chimneying on the last two pitches. Great day out, back at the car by 10pm.
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★ Good | Tue 20th Sep 2016 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Thu 20th Apr 2017 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Andy Richardson | 380m | Sun 23rd Apr 2017 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Greer Knight | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Jun 2017 | ||||
Had to retreat as the 4th pitch was soaking wet
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Louis | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Sep 2017 | ||||
Definitely a climb I won't forget in a hurry! The climb had breathtaking views and some sections of really nice climbing with good exposure, intertwined with 'pitches' of bush swimming. At times I felt like I was doing a canyon exit (alternate butterbox exit perhaps??)
The topo was hard to follow and I'm not sure if we were on route for the first 4 pitches.
But overall a wicked experience.
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with brendan | 380m | ★ Good | Sun 29th Oct 2017 | ||||
Good day out. Not as scary as the first time 6 years ago. Needs a bolt at the top of the chimney to avoid the traverse and a few bolts in the good looking head wall as a direct finish to round out a good day
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Thu 10th May 2018 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Tim M-S | 380m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | ||||
While the climbing is easy, it’s a fun adventure with some fun moves. Do the full chimney. Good day out. Great location.
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Dani Hess | 380m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Nov 2018 | ||||
Descended butterbox canyon and climbed out via this route. Great canyon + great climb = awesome day! Approx 11 hrs car to car.
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13 | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Josiah Hess | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Nov 2018 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Fri 6th Sep 2019 | |||||
13 |
★★ Margarine Ridge
- with
Anne Weckert
| 380m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Nov 2019 | ||||
Great day out. Better than I expected given the grade.
Printed guide misses part of the instructions for P9, I think we found a new way through...
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Tue 26th Nov 2019 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with andrew lock | 380m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th May 2002 | ||||
A good adventure
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13 |
★★ Margarine Ridge
- with
NiccyG
1
13
13m
| 380m | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | |||||
Epic climbing, run out, harder than 13 and great day. 10 Hours car to car, the climb has been severly burnt in the 2019/20 fires and the rock on the first pitch has become brittle - we avoided by walking around the ledge above from the right.
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13 |
★★ Margarine Ridge
1
13
13m
2
9
35m
3
11
42m
4
9
55m
5
9
58m
6
13
55m
7
13
35m
9
6
30m
10
9
30m
| 350m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 15th Feb 2021 | ||||
Attempted from pitch 1, but the rock was cooked from the fires. The first 4 hand holds i attempted broke off. Jumped on at pitch 3. Helmets and a sense of humor are absolutely necessary. We were glad to have tricams and hexes but I'm still not sure why we lugged the #5 all the way up. It probably could have stayed at home.
A 70m rope would have been nice to have. A great day out on a 13!₩ |
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Fri 30th Apr 2021 | |||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Zeus Zeus | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Jun 2021 | ||||
A bit of an adventure. Started around pitch 3 based on the last logged ascent post fires. Lots of good fun to be had if you can laugh off some interesting situations. Stunning exposure at times
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Terence | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Jun 2021 | ||||
Great day out with some stunning exposure.
Be sure to sacrifice something to the scree and choss gods
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13 | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Sat 4th Sep 2021 | |||||
We got very lost
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13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Mon 4th Oct 2021 | |||||
13 |
★★ Margarine Ridge
1
13
13m
2
9
35m
3
11
42m
4
9
55m
5
9
58m
6
13
55m
7
13
35m
8
8
30m
9
6
30m
10
9
30m
| 380m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Feb 2022 | ||||
13 13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Sat 1st Oct 2022 | |||||
Speed ascent. Alastair and I ran the approach in 33 minutes, the climb in about 2 hours, then the exit in about 15 minutes. We simulclimbed with microtractions pitches 1-6, then linked 7-8, then pitched 9. Our rack was doubles from 0.3 to 0.75, then singles to 3, but it would have been nice having doubles for those. A 5 didn't feel needed. Total time 2 hr 57 minutes. The start didn't seem damaged at all from the fires a few years ago and it was fun.
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13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Wed 14th Dec 2022 | |||||
13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge - with Nick Gresham | 380m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Dec 2022 | ||||
Did something near this but didn’t look at the guide and wandered up the ridge. Mixed rock quality but super cool day out. Some epic pitches and some absolutely terrifying rumours.
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13 R | ★★ Margarine Ridge | 380m | Crap | Sat 6th May 2023 | ||||
Approach is long and particularly strenuous on the loose scree heading off the canyon track to the base of the climb. We didn’t descend far enough and traversed into the top of pitch 2.
Pitches 3 to 7 are quite good. Some run out sections but climbing was quite nice. Rope drag tends to be the main struggle with long pitches even using double ropes. Quite disappointing that pitches 8 to 10 are much worse for climbing style, rock quality and gear placements. Pitch 8 was terrifying as we ended up putting all our lives in the hands of the thread belay. Rope drag caused a big problem and delayed the process - leading to pitches 9 and 10 being done after sundown. These involved a lot of dirt thrutching. I led pitches 3a, 5 and 8. Left carpark at 8:30am, returned at 6:00pm. It appeared as though there is an escape from the top of pitch 4 back to the scree slope. Should be graded slightly higher and with an X rating as there were some moments where a fall would have been extremely serious. Compared to Tom Thumb this has a much harder approach and the climbing is nowhere near as good. |
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13 |
★★ Margarine Ridge
1
13
13
A hard start to find, pitch 4 was the favourite out of the lower section. It's an adventurous climb. P1 - Lead P2/P3 Linked P4 - Lead P5 - Simul climbed P6 - Lead P7 - Lead P8/P9 - Linked. Directly up through the chimney on P8 negating the traverse. Much cleaner climbing. Why anyone would use that thread on P8 for an anchor is beyond me! P9 - Head right at top, approx 5m is a single carrot. P10 - Simul Climb. One carrot and DBB at the bottom. The worst pitch of the climb. Traverse through stemming has very minimal pro. Approx. 6hrs.
2
9
35
3
11
42
4
9
55
5
9
58
6
13
55
7
13
35
8
8
30
9
6
30
| 350m | Average | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | ||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
8 | FA ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Average | Thu 15th Dec 2005 | ||||
easy climb but great exposure over the grose valley
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Sat 6th Nov 1999 | |||||
with Micky B
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Sat 28th Jan 2012 | |||||
8 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | Wed 20th Jan 2010 | ||||
8 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Average | Sun 28th Oct 2012 | ||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Sun 22nd Jan 2017 | |||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Average | Fri 16th Dec 2016 | ||||
Why is this listed as a climb?...
8 metre climb surrounded by 192 meters of walking...
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Thu 20th Apr 2017 | |||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Sun 22nd Oct 2017 | |||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | Thu 9th Nov 2017 | ||||
Serves a purpose
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit - with doylebeaudequin, Jordon | 12m, 4 | Average | Tue 19th Dec 2017 | ||||
Got absolutely roasted in the 33 degree heat
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit - with doylebeaudequin, George Shanks | 12m, 4 | Tue 19th Dec 2017 | |||||
George and Co vs. one hot boi
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Wed 20th Dec 2017 | |||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Thu 21st Dec 2017 | |||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | Wed 7th Mar 2018 | ||||
Exit Butterbox: Tafe Assessment.
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | Mon 5th Mar 2018 | ||||
Butterbox Canyon Reccie for Tafe
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | Sat 3rd Mar 2018 | ||||
Guide: Butterbox
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | Thu 1st Mar 2018 | ||||
Butterbox: Tafe
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Average | Sun 18th Mar 2018 | ||||
Canyon Guide
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8 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit - with david dearnly | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Jul 2018 | ||||
Pretty stiff at the grade
Lovely Piddo-esque rock
I used a fist jam at the crux
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||||
8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit - with Matthieu Desmons | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Mar 2019 | ||||
Wished I'd read these notes instead of trusting the canyoning guide (which states "about 8m of climbing") - only took a 10m dynamic rope-end and came up short. Instead we created the mountain's shittiest multi-pitch - two pitches of 6m (FA?). Climb it in sopping wet approach shoes, seeping pack loaded with soaked canyoning gear and light rain for the full tick. Belay your partner up to the interim ledge by rigging up a dodgy anchor. Fist jam start. Definitely not a grade 8. It's a must-climb! (if you want to avoid the 4-6 hour walk out via Lockleys Pylon).
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit - with Asalis, Liz, Steph | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | Mon 22nd Apr 2019 | ||||
Done in very saturated approach shoes. And climb was good, as the other option was a 4 hr walk out.
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | Tue 1st Mar 2016 | ||||
8 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Wed 27th Nov 2019 | |||||
17 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Average | Sun 15th Nov 2020 | ||||
Try lead climbing this exit in the dark in wet canyoning shoes and you'll quickly discover it's more difficult than advertised, especially with one spot where there are no footholds whatsoever. Would have been better if i'd brought climbing shoes with me in the drybag. Make sure to bring 4x quickdraws.
Also good to note that the exit path as drawn on the picture above is at best an artist's impression, there are large scrambles up and down not drawn at all. You're not lost, you're still on the right exit track. |
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10 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit - with Angelo | 12m, 4 | Sun 24th Jan 2021 | |||||
Generously bolted. On static, did bring climbing shoes.
Not easy to find. Stay close to the cliff line, and look for the ledge above. The 'cave' is more like a narrow (~1m high) horizontal slot you crawl through. |
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8 12 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | Sat 13th Jan 2018 | |||||
8 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | Tue 14th Dec 2021 | ||||
stiff 8. not much of a climb but logging it anyway!
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8 | ★ Mount Hay canyon exit - with Keith jebb, Jared Cox | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | ||||
Gorgeous spot! Abseiled this to start an adventure and climbed back up in runners for fun.
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Unfortunately this direct finish still ends with a fair bush bash up steep dirt.