Ascents of Margarine Ridge

Approach is long and particularly strenuous on the loose scree heading off the canyon track to the base of the climb. We didn’t descend far enough and traversed into the top of pitch 2.

Pitches 3 to 7 are quite good. Some run out sections but climbing was quite nice. Rope drag tends to be the main struggle with long pitches even using double ropes.

Quite disappointing that pitches 8 to 10 are much worse for climbing style, rock quality and gear placements. Pitch 8 was terrifying as we ended up putting all our lives in the hands of the thread belay. Rope drag caused a big problem and delayed the process - leading to pitches 9 and 10 being done after sundown. These involved a lot of dirt thrutching.

I led pitches 3a, 5 and 8.

Left carpark at 8:30am, returned at 6:00pm.

It appeared as though there is an escape from the top of pitch 4 back to the scree slope.

Should be graded slightly higher and with an X rating as there were some moments where a fall would have been extremely serious.

Compared to Tom Thumb this has a much harder approach and the climbing is nowhere near as good.

Did something near this but didn’t look at the guide and wandered up the ridge. Mixed rock quality but super cool day out. Some epic pitches and some absolutely terrifying rumours.

Speed ascent. Alastair and I ran the approach in 33 minutes, the climb in about 2 hours, then the exit in about 15 minutes. We simulclimbed with microtractions pitches 1-6, then linked 7-8, then pitched 9. Our rack was doubles from 0.3 to 0.75, then singles to 3, but it would have been nice having doubles for those. A 5 didn't feel needed. Total time 2 hr 57 minutes. The start didn't seem damaged at all from the fires a few years ago and it was fun.

We got very lost

A bit of an adventure. Started around pitch 3 based on the last logged ascent post fires. Lots of good fun to be had if you can laugh off some interesting situations. Stunning exposure at times

Great day out with some stunning exposure. Be sure to sacrifice something to the scree and choss gods

Attempted from pitch 1, but the rock was cooked from the fires. The first 4 hand holds i attempted broke off. Jumped on at pitch 3. Helmets and a sense of humor are absolutely necessary. We were glad to have tricams and hexes but I'm still not sure why we lugged the #5 all the way up. It probably could have stayed at home.

A 70m rope would have been nice to have.

A great day out on a 13!₩

Epic climbing, run out, harder than 13 and great day. 10 Hours car to car, the climb has been severly burnt in the 2019/20 fires and the rock on the first pitch has become brittle - we avoided by walking around the ledge above from the right.

Great day out. Better than I expected given the grade. Printed guide misses part of the instructions for P9, I think we found a new way through...

Descended butterbox canyon and climbed out via this route. Great canyon + great climb = awesome day! Approx 11 hrs car to car.

While the climbing is easy, it’s a fun adventure with some fun moves. Do the full chimney. Good day out. Great location.

Good day out. Not as scary as the first time 6 years ago. Needs a bolt at the top of the chimney to avoid the traverse and a few bolts in the good looking head wall as a direct finish to round out a good day

Definitely a climb I won't forget in a hurry! The climb had breathtaking views and some sections of really nice climbing with good exposure, intertwined with 'pitches' of bush swimming. At times I felt like I was doing a canyon exit (alternate butterbox exit perhaps??) The topo was hard to follow and I'm not sure if we were on route for the first 4 pitches. But overall a wicked experience.

Had to retreat as the 4th pitch was soaking wet

Classic for those who like this type of thing. Faffed a bit on the way in (read: slept through alarm) and started climbing by 10am. Some decent rock between loose bushwalks. Some seriously dubious chimneying on the last two pitches. Great day out, back at the car by 10pm.

P5-7 were great!! The rest was average to poor but is a great day out in an amazing place!

Would recommend going straight up the chimney rather doing the weird traverse shenanigans ....

Fantastic mountain adventure - feels remote, great scenery & nice climbing. We found enough gear placements to be happy, but did pull a few holds off!

We linked pitch 8 & 9, up the chossy chimney to 1st roof, a committing step left to good holds, then an easy off-width body-jam up to the next cave & back you're on-route.

With JB and Sean. I led P1, 4, 6, 8. Sean led 2, 5, 9. JB led 3, 7. Took us 8.5 hours. 8am started first pitch. 4.30pm topped out. Seconds simulclimbed (on belay) every pitch but the first. First pitch is still concerning.

6th pitch is the pearl of this marathon. Led pitches 2, 5 and 9. 8.5hrs descent to topout

11 December 2010. Led pitches: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9. Second pitches: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10. A few borderline unprotectable pitches, probably some sections are harder than the advertised grade, almost as much bushwalking/gardening as there is climbing, moderately crappy rock... And amongst all of this, a few sections of funky adventure climbing.

7 hrs car to car

With Rick. I led 1,3,5,7,8. Bloody hot. Not a classic ... and probably more like 16 in places.