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Description

Mostly short, generally easy pitches but with a great 5th pitch (the eponymous pitch). This climb has not received many repeats, so be particularly careful if you plan to attempt the route.

The climb starts about 750m right (facing out) from the base of the Mt Hay canyon exit climb (head right soon after doing a short abseil off a big ring bolt). The start is on a small belay ledge about 5m up, about 20m past a small creek fed from a wide, dripping waterfall high up on the cliff.

  1. 15m (16) A nice technical start to the climb. Orange corner left of belay. Hard moves up the corner, then easier up the flake/crack and a gully to a tree belay to the left.

  2. 35m (walk) Walk and scramble up and left, then up a short corner to the base of the second short corner.

  3. 10m (10) Easy wall right of corner to long, narrow ledge below nice black ironstone slab

  4. 18m (15 R) Easily up unprotected black ironstone slab (numerous variants) to small ledge (piton, though I think Hayden went back and removed it). Crank up short, steep wall on thin chickenheads to atmospheric belay ledge under roof (BB and cams). NOTE: Pitches 3 and 4 could be linked quite easily into a single pitch.

  5. 55m (15 R) The money pitch. Traverse right from the belay (be careful of the thin plates below where the ledge runs out), over the bulge on jugs then up the long slab above with sparse gear. Tree belay on halfway ledge. NOTE: After the FA, a BB was added in the middle of this pitch, allowing it to be led as two pitches on a 50m rope.

  6. 30m (walk) Walk up halfway ledge to a pleasant belay under a small roof.

  7. 15m (10) Step right onto block then up to ledge. Up pleasant slab to ledge (tree belay).

  8. 25m (walk) Walk up and left to small ledge below hollow corner.

  9. 5m (13) Up hollow corner into cave (small cam with runner out onto face), then back onto the overhanging face and up to ledge.

  10. 20m (walk) Walk up and left to chossy cave. NOTE: From here on, the climb follows the easiest line to the top of the cliff, thereby avoiding a lot of the great looking rock on offer to the right. It is expected that a better, direct finish could be done beginning here, and heading out to the right on the nice looking slabs.

  11. 25m (8) Step left and up around arete to ledge, Straight up buttress (or walk up at left hand end). Scramble up to ledge below chossy roof.

  12. 25m (10) Walk left along ledge below chossy roof, then easily up blocks to base of pleasant black slab. Left and up the black slab to belay ledge below steep orange wall.

  13. 15m (12) Up choss to layback crack on right. Pleasant layback to top (tree belay 15m back).

To walk out, head up and right, passing an unusual "inverted V" cave. Keep heading right until the open heath is reached, at which point continue straight up the ridge top, up a short, steep white slab and over the top to the walking track. Walking time to the carpark: 20 minutes.

Ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Route history

27 Sep 1998

First Ascent: Hayden Brotchie & Peter Monks (alt), 27 Sep 1998

Location

Lat/Long: -33.61893, 150.40712

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

16 R Community registered grade
16 Hayden Brotchie
16 R

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
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Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67% from 2 ratings

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