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Description

Probably the oldest climbing area in the Bluey's. A little bit forgotten about these days but still very worthwhile. Take a lot of care with the fixed protection. Hopefully at some point in the future there will be funds available to 'renew' this area.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

On the first 'Narrow Neck'. Easily accesable via public transport and a short walk. Find Cliff Drive, turn off this into Glenraphael Drive (as for 'Diamond Falls' and Redledge Pass, take this for approximately 1km to a small parking area. The crag is accessed down a gated fire trail on the right side of the road. The southern end of the crag can be accessed by walking a little further to where the fence comes into contact with the road. The most popular access point is via the fire trail and pumping station down through Dixon's Ladders. Note: these ladders were partially removed by the waterboard, they have been reinstated at various times by climbers but may not actually reach the ground when you get there! A short hand over hand or abseil may be required.

The climbs are split into the area South of the ladders and the area North of the ladders.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
14
34
62m
Right Side Cliff
 Trad,  Aid and other styles
69
426
38m
Left Side Cliff
 Trad,  Aid and other styles
115
861
58m

Activity

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