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Description

Probably the oldest climbing area in the Bluey's. A little bit forgotten about these days but still very worthwhile. Take a lot of care with the fixed protection. Hopefully at some point in the future there will be funds available to 'renew' this area.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

On the first 'Narrow Neck'. Easily accesable via public transport and a short walk. Find Cliff Drive, turn off this into Glenraphael Drive (as for 'Diamond Falls' and Redledge Pass, take this for approximately 1km to a small parking area. The crag is accessed down a gated fire trail on the right side of the road. The southern end of the crag can be accessed by walking a little further to where the fence comes into contact with the road. The most popular access point is via the fire trail and pumping station down through Dixon's Ladders. Note: these ladders were partially removed by the waterboard, they have been reinstated at various times by climbers but may not actually reach the ground when you get there! A short hand over hand or abseil may be required.

The climbs are split into the area South of the ladders and the area North of the ladders.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
14
33
62m
Right Side Cliff
 Trad,  Aid and other styles
69
409
38m
Left Side Cliff
 Trad,  Aid and other styles
114
815
57m

Routes

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Grade Route
6

Easily up to top of block to FH on the undercut wall to the left. Traverse left to a ring bolt then up the arete past another ring on the left (can confirm this will hold a fall...) to the crux just after you clip the final ring. From here easily up the arete to where it meets Tal, top out as for Tal. A 0.4 Camalot, and a set of nuts, as well as a couple of bolt plates are a must for the climbing after the last ring.

Don't forget you need a trad belay on top: 0.5, #3 Camalots and a few nuts will do nicely.

Start: Start at the block 6 or 8m left of Toll, at the ugly scratched X (not made by FA party).

FA: Hugh Ward, James Castrission, Luke Merrett, 2009

7
22 *** Gypsy Ritalin Sport 18m, 11

Up onto ledge then right and up arete and wall to lower off under roof

Start: As for heart Attack

FA: Mikl, 2011

Open trips

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