Did you know?

You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 M0 Algae Corner Aid 50m

Bridge tree stump and aid, around lip then to ledge. 2).Crawl left to piton in next corner. 3).Corner, right onto nose. 4). Up.

Start: Left end of ledge at undercut right facing corner.

FA: F.Kitchener,K.Westren, 1962

2
17 M0 Shadows on the Wood Aid 37m

Corner, left below the top and up. Off right.

Start: From AC anchor 1.

FA: A.Penney,G.Prime, 1977

3

Traverse to Dixon\'s Ladders.

  1. 255m (-)

  2. 73m (-)

4
19 M2 * Solidifan Aid 33m

Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right.

Start: 25m right of AV.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

5
22 * Solidatic Mixed 30m, 2

Directissima . Frees bottom section of Solidfan and top section of Lunatic, Excellent rock and climbing. Good pro - no ned to rebolt. Start as for Solidfan below bolt. Highball thinish crux up past reasonable bolt and missing rurp to good gear. Leftish past tree & piton (Original Lunatic Belay) and up to hollow flake. Take right line - Lunatic - up past pitons & gear then right to bolt and final moves up through scoop to belay on ledge. Excellent

FFA: Mac and Zac, 2006

6
15 M3 Boston Tea Party Aid 33m

Aid/free up crack and wall, right to ledge.

Start: 6m right of S.

FA: A.Penney,D.Humphries, 1977

7
18 M2 Lunatic Aid 46m

Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right.

Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1967

8
23 ** Edge of Insanity Trad 30m

Start: Up 'Necrophiliac' for a few metres then left to arete and up.

FA: M.Baker,J.Passlow, 2000

9
19 M4 Necrophiliac Aid 33m

Corner to roof, aid out and around then free.

Start: As for L.

FA: J.Worrall,J.Ewbank, 1967

10
17 * Maniac Trad 34m

Right and side of gully

Start: On ledge above track before waterfall cave. Scrable up.Start marked on right side of the gully.

FA: J.Ewbank,K.Carter, 1965

11
11 Black Pawn Trad 34m

Up corner, right onto nose, wall & corner to tree.

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: B.Ryan,H.Luxford, 1965

12
19 Felix the Crack Trad 30m

Use tree to climb overhang, up to ledge above BP corner. 2). Corner to tree, traverse left to crack and up.

Start: 4m right of BP.

FA: A.Martland,A.Penney, 1977

FFA: j. Smoothy, 1980

13
11 R Piton Gambit Bracket Trad 34m

Corner to ledge on right, arete to ledge below chossy overhang, up wall. Take Care!

Start: 10m right of FtC at left facing corner.

FA: F.Kitchener,K.Westren, 1962