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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
15 M0 Algae Corner Aid 50m

Bridge tree stump and aid, around lip then to ledge. 2).Crawl left to piton in next corner. 3).Corner, right onto nose. 4). Up.

Start: Left end of ledge at undercut right facing corner.

FA: F.Kitchener & K.Westren, 1962

17 M0 Shadows on the Wood Aid 37m

Corner, left below the top and up. Off right.

Start: From AC anchor 1.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

16 M0 The Long and Winding Road Aid 420m, 2

Traverse to Dixon\'s Ladders.

  1. 255m (-)

  2. 73m (-)

19 M2 * Solidifan Aid 33m

Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right.

Start: 25m right of AV.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

22 * Solidatic Mixed 30m, 2

Directissima . Frees bottom section of Solidfan and top section of Lunatic, Excellent rock and climbing. Good pro - no ned to rebolt. Start as for Solidfan below bolt. Highball thinish crux up past reasonable bolt and missing rurp to good gear. Leftish past tree & piton (Original Lunatic Belay) and up to hollow flake. Take right line - Lunatic - up past pitons & gear then right to bolt and final moves up through scoop to belay on ledge. Excellent

FFA: Mac & Zac, 2006

15 M3 Boston Tea Party Aid 33m

Aid/free up crack and wall, right to ledge.

Start: 6m right of S.

FA: A.Penney & D.Humphries, 1977

18 M2 Lunatic Aid 46m

Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right.

Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1967

23 ** Edge of Insanity Trad 30m

Start: Up 'Necrophiliac' for a few metres then left to arete and up.

FA: M.Baker & J.Passlow, 2000

19 M4 Necrophiliac Aid 33m

Corner to roof, aid out and around then free.

Start: As for L.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1967

17 * Maniac Trad 34m

Right and side of gully

Start: On ledge above track before waterfall cave. Scrable up.Start marked on right side of the gully.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965

11 Black Pawn Trad 34m

Up corner, right onto nose, wall & corner to tree.

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: B.Ryan & H.Luxford, 1965

19 Felix the Crack Trad 30m

Use tree to climb overhang, up to ledge above BP corner. 2). Corner to tree, traverse left to crack and up.

Start: 4m right of BP.

FA: A.Martland & A.Penney, 1977

FFA: j. Smoothy, 1980

11 R Piton Gambit Bracket Trad 34m

Corner to ledge on right, arete to ledge below chossy overhang, up wall. Take Care!

Start: 10m right of FtC at left facing corner.

FA: F.Kitchener & K.Westren, 1962


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