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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Bridge tree stump and aid, around lip then to ledge. 2).Crawl left to piton in next corner. 3).Corner, right onto nose. 4). Up.

Start: Left end of ledge at undercut right facing corner.

FA: F.Kitchener & K.Westren, 1962

Corner, left below the top and up. Off right.

Start: From AC anchor 1.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Traverse to Dixon\'s Ladders.

  1. 255m (-)

  2. 73m (-)

Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right.

Start: 25m right of 'Algae Corner'.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Directissima. Frees bottom section of Solidfan and top section of 'Lunatic', 'Excellent' rock and climbing. Good pro - no need to rebolt.

Highball thinish crux up past reasonable bolt and missing rurp to good gear. Leftish past tree & piton (Original Lunatic Belay) and up to hollow flake. Take right line - Lunatic - up past pitons & gear then right to bolt and final moves up through scoop to belay on ledge. Excellent

Start: As for Solidifan below bolt.

FFA: Zac Vertrees & Macciza, 2006

Aid/free up crack and wall, right to ledge.

Start: 6m right of S.

FA: A.Penney & D.Humphries, 1977

Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right.

Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1967

Start: Up 'Necrophiliac' for a few metres then left to arete and up.

FA: M.Baker & J.Passlow, 2000

Corner to roof, aid out and around then free.

Start: As for L.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1967

Right and side of gully

Start: On ledge above track before waterfall cave. Scrable up.Start marked on right side of the gully.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965

Up corner, right onto nose, wall & corner to tree.

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: B.Ryan & H.Luxford, 1965

Use tree to climb overhang, up to ledge above BP corner. 2). Corner to tree, traverse left to crack and up.

Start: 4m right of BP.

FA: A.Martland & A.Penney, 1977

FFA: j. Smoothy, 1980

Corner to ledge on right, arete to ledge below chossy overhang, up wall. Take Care!

Start: 10m right of FtC at left facing corner.

FA: F.Kitchener & K.Westren, 1962

Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care!

Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge.

Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs.

FA: R.Reynolds & J.Pickard, 1967

Up to bolt, left then right again to piton, up, slight left around overhang, arete to ledge. 2). Right wall then up and left to arete and up.

Start: 3m righ of PGBDs. 'Arete'.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

FFA: j. Smoothy, 1980

Coner and ramp to bush(!) 2). Up to traverse line, left and up onto block. 3). Up and right on jugs. Take great care!!

Start: 2m right of SoT.

FA: K.Cooke, D.Litchfield & P.Cartwright, 1959

5m up PG then ramp on left, left and up to PG anchor 2. Left again or finish as for PG.

Start: As for PG for 5m.

FA: A.Penney.J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1979

Up to roof, right and up to slab, up right (Take wires), to ledge and bush, finish as for PG. Take care with pro!!

Start: 5m right of PG.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Tree to wall, left to arete, up to ledge. 2).Left to corner, traverse right to piton then arete, up and right to ledge. 3).Back left to piton, around overhang, up wall on right of arete to ledge, up arete (mainly on left). Take slings.

Start: 12m right of SM at short crack below rooflet.

FA: A.Penney & J.Nagler, 1977

Corner, overhang, up and slight left to ledge. 2).Traverse left to corner, up to ledge and ramp leading right onto wall, up and right to bolt, back slight left and up wall. Take care!!

Start: 1m right again at thin crack.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Wall to bush below cracked roof. 2). Aid roof then left to cave. a Free varient starts 3m right. 3). Traverse right, up crack to bush.

Start: Block 4m right of E.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

Squirm up to ledge. 2).Thrash to chockstone, out and up to bush. 3).Left and up wall to bulge. Take care!!

Start: 9m right of RS. Wet undercut chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965

Batman start?

Start: 30m right of FC at slight orange overhang.

FA: S.Knight, G.Weigand & M.Law-Smith, 1983

Up to first bolt, up.

Start: As for LL.

FA: C.Peisker, 1986

Diagonally left to bolt. Corner to 100' Slab halfway ledge.

Start: 3m right of LL.

FA: G.Weigand, 1983

Start: Use tree to swing left into flimsier tree (!), traverse left to bolt, Up and right to 100' Slab hw ledge. Has a direct start 2m left.(Grade 22).

FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & M.Zuideruin, 1977

Up tree and crack to 100' Slab hw ledge.

Start: 7m right of HTBB.

FA: A.Penney & P.Butcher, 1977

Activity

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