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The area to the right of the ladder descent. The routes listed LEFT to RIGHT starting at the far end of the crag.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
14 M6 Chancellorsville Aid 48m

Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss!

Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave.

FA: J.Pickard & R.Reynolds, 1968

13 M5 *** Dixie Aid 70m

Aid to ledge, up to 100 Man bivvy ledge! 2).Aid up and left via triple cracks till above small roof then right via missing expando flake(!), around arete and up to ledge. 3). Easy corner.

Start: 12m right of C.

FA: J.Pickard, D.Leak & R.Reynolds, 1968


Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care!

Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977


To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge.

Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs.

FA: R.Reynolds & J.Pickard, 1967


Up to bolt, left then right again to piton, up, slight left around overhang, arete to ledge. 2). Right wall then up and left to arete and up.

Start: 3m righ of PGBDs. 'Arete'.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

FFA: j. Smoothy, 1980

12 R * Piton Gambit Trad 57m

Coner and ramp to bush(!) 2). Up to traverse line, left and up onto block. 3). Up and right on jugs. Take great care!!

Start: 2m right of SoT.

FA: K.Cooke, D.Litchfield & P.Cartwright, 1959

21 R KY Jelly Trad 25m

5m up PG then ramp on left, left and up to PG anchor 2. Left again or finish as for PG.

Start: As for PG for 5m.

FA: A.Penney.J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1979

16 Sirrus Minor Trad 21m

Up to roof, right and up to slab, up right (Take wires), to ledge and bush, finish as for PG. Take care with pro!!

Start: 5m right of PG.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

16 Shogun Trad 64m

Tree to wall, left to arete, up to ledge. 2).Left to corner, traverse right to piton then arete, up and right to ledge. 3).Back left to piton, around overhang, up wall on right of arete to ledge, up arete (mainly on left). Take slings.

Start: 12m right of SM at short crack below rooflet.

FA: A.Penney & J.Nagler, 1977

15 M1 R Ectoplasm Aid 65m

Corner, overhang, up and slight left to ledge. 2).Traverse left to corner, up to ledge and ramp leading right onto wall, up and right to bolt, back slight left and up wall. Take care!!

Start: 1m right again at thin crack.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

20 M4 Rising Sun Aid 52m

Wall to bush below cracked roof. 2). Aid roof then left to cave. a Free varient starts 3m right. 3). Traverse right, up crack to bush.

Start: Block 4m right of E.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

18 R ** Frustration Chimney Trad 63m

Squirm up to ledge. 2).Thrash to chockstone, out and up to bush. 3).Left and up wall to bulge. Take care!!

Start: 9m right of RS. Wet undercut chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965


Up to first bolt, up.

Start: As for LL.

FA: C.Peisker, 1986

25 Gravity Sink Trad 22m

Diagonally left to bolt. Corner to 100' Slab halfway ledge.

Start: 3m right of LL.

FA: G.Weigand, 1983

19 * Hey There Big Boy Trad 19m

Start: Use tree to swing left into flimsier tree (!), traverse left to bolt, Up and right to 100' Slab hw ledge. Has a direct start 2m left.(Grade 22).

FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & M.Zuideruin, 1977


Up tree and crack to 100' Slab hw ledge.

Start: 7m right of HTBB.

FA: A.Penney & P.Butcher, 1977

10 Deshabille' Detour Trad 48m
21 *** Day of Reckoning Trad 30m

Left along traverse 5m, up flakes to piton, left to arete, right side of arete, up, then left and up steepening to belay.

Start: On big ledge as for DD pitch 2.

FA: G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1978

24 *** Dead Reckoning Sport 30m

Direct up arete of 'Day of Reckoning'

Start: Left from 100 ft Slab

23 Grey Stains Trad 20m

Start: As for DoR but straight up the arete after the traverse.

FA: M.Law & G.Bradbury, 1984

15 Minute Man Trad 15m

Start: 3m right of DD.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1977

11 * 100' Slab Trad 45m

Block, around overlap, up wall to ledge. Stroll left to big corner. 2). Up just right of corner. Rap or walk of right.

Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.

FA: K.Westren & T.Batty, 1961

14 * 100' Slab Direct Trad 30m
14 * 100' Slab Most Direct Unknown 15m
15 * 100' Slab Super Direct Unknown 16m
21 ** Crash Landing Trad 30m

To roof, right above lip and up easy slab.

Start: 8m right again.

FA: M.Law & W.Baird, 1978

17 * In Transit Trad 49m

Up wall, right along footledge and up, flake, right onto ledge, right 5m then wall tending left. 2). Up.

Start: 3m right of CL at break in overhang.

FA: P.Butcher & A.Penney, 1978

19 R Smegma Trad 13m

Wall to ledge. Take great care with pro!

Start: 4m right of 100'S.

FA: A.Penney & W.Baird, 1978

12 R Epsilon Trad 15m


Start: 3m right again.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1977

13 M4 Stoner Highway Aid 57m

Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Penney, 1977

19 In The Gutter Trad 35m

Free SH pitch 2 to third aid bolt, through roof and up wall.

Start: On halfway ledge as for SH pitch 2.

FA: M.Law & G.Bradbury, 1979

13 Zeta Trad 15m

Up to tree,right, around hard stuff to ledge.

Start: 4m right of SH.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

17 Ebbnuff Trad 57m

To ledge, roof on left and up to tree. 2).Past overhang, onto wall, up to piton, right to ledge. 3). Wall.

Start: 15m right again on scrubby slab.

FA: A.Penney & D.Humphries, 1977

19 R Joan of Arc Trad 51m

Up and right through choss to yellow corner, up to triangular block, right past bolt, choss to ledge. 2). Left and up to shelf beneath overhang, to wall, uo to small ledge. 3). Up and right. Take wires!

Start: Slab 3m right of E.

FA: A.Penney.G.Prime, 1977

16 R * Climb X Mixed 54m, 1

Crack to ledge, right and up crack, right along hand traverse, corner to detached block, left across wall, up to ledge - belay here. back right, up to roof, left and over roof to bolt, up, slight left to small ledge. small tree and detatched block belay 2). Up and right (not much gear)through overlap(with fear!) and up to bolt, then belay.

Start: 10m right of JoA.

FA: A.Penney, J.Smoothy & m.Zuiderduin, 1977

13 R Sloth Wall Trad 65m

Up to ledge. 2). Left to end, around overhang and up, left up wall to ledge. 3). Diagonally left and up. Take Care!

Start: 30m right of CX.

FA: B.Allen & T.Batty, 1963

12 M1 R Vorhung Aid 47m

Corner to ledge. 2). Aid ladder then free. Take care!

Start: 12m right of SW at scrubby corner.

FA: J.Worrall & B.Postill, 1967

20 * Cheese Cake Trad 42m

As for V. 2).Right into corner, up to traverse, arete then up. 3). Up.

Start: From V anchor 1.

FA: J.Worrall & B.Postill, 1967

18 Arabesque Direct Start Unknown 14m
13 M4 * Arabesque Aid 54m

Crack to bolt under roof, aid roof and choss to piton. 2). Wall.

Start: Has Vs and Ds, left respectively.

8m right of CC. Grey left leading flake.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

21 The Lecher Trad 18m

Bulge then left for pro, back right and straight up to K anchor.

Start: 4m right of A.

FA: J.Smoothy & S.Moon, 1983

22 M3 * Krakatoa Aid 61m

Up to steepening, up then left to shale. 2).Right to choss corner, aid/free to large gear under roof, traverse left to arete. 3). Chimney.

Start: Weakness 3m right of TL.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

21 M3 Square Gully Aid 75m

Corner then right to ledge, up to piton, to ledge. Belay in recess (can climb directly up corner). 2).Left to corner, up (aid) to piton below roof. 3). Traverse right to aid (take care), arete, around roof and up.

Start: 6m right of K.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1967

23 The Fifth Position Trad 56m

Up to piton and on to ledge, belay in recess. 2) 'Steep' corner, rooflet and up.

Start: Thin crack 7m right of SG.

FA: S.Knight & G.Weigand, 1983

13 R Chess Board Trad 85m

Up left to tree, to small ledge. 2).Diagonally right. 3). Diagonally then horizontally right to jugs and ledge, to tree. 4).Up.

Has a Ds at 21.

Start: 16m right of TFP.

FA: T.Batty & F.Kitchener, 1962

21 * Chess Board Direct Unknown 8m
17 * Dagmar's Hot Pants Trad 20m

Over bulge to chain.

Start: From CB anchor 2.

FA: A.Jones & B.Pearse, 1989

14 M2 Rin Tin Tin Aid 52m

Tree to lip, aid right to bolts, free, then right to cave, wall to ledge and bollard, up to trees. 2). Right up wall. Take wires and slings.

Start: 10m right of CB. (tree growing to lip of roof?).

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

27 R Space Junk Trad 12m

The bolts were bad 20 years ago!

Start: 12m right of RTT. cairn.

FA: M.Law, 1983

20 King Kong Trad 62m

Steep green crack. 2).Out and up to piton. 3&4). UP.

Start: 7m right of SJ.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

19 Airborne Trad 65m

As for KK to thin traverse to cave, crawl left to belay. 2).Back to piton, over bulge and up to tree. 3). Up.

Start: As for KK.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1978

20 Serving Time Trad 75m

Corner, traverse left and up, left to bolt, down and left to rest, through roof, traverse right, up and left to belay. 2&3). Wall trending left.

Start: Left facing corner 9m right of DS.

FA: G.Bradbury, D.Wagland & A.Penney, 1978

11 M4 Mickey Mouse Aid 60m

Corner then right to nose, aid roof on many bolts and pitons. 2&3). Up.

Start: As for ST.

FA: J.Pickard & J.Smith, 1967

13 M2 Locust Aid 66m

Up to piton, left and up to roof, aid roof, wall then left and aid to bush. 2).Right and up.

Start: 10m right of MM.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

18 R Fairies' Tales Trad 50m

Up to bolt, trend right to piton, up, up and left to double bolts, left along lip then weakness up to roof, over, up and right to bush. 2). Right to corner and up.

Start: 10m right of L at groove.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978

19 R The Boxer Rebellion Trad 53m

Tree to jug, groove to bulge, over, up to ledge on right. 2).Diagonally left to base of corner. 3). Corner.

Start: 4m right of FT.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1977

18 R Captain Triangle Trad 30m

Up then right around arete and up onto loose block, right of arete. 2). Void then arete and groove, onto ledge to girder.

Start: 3m right of TBR.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1978

15 R Pipeline Wall Trad 55m

Up trees onto ledge, left and up to arete, right below blocks to ledge. 2). Overhang and right to girder. 3). Up and left to arete, up.

Start: 10m right of CT (dead trees).

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

23 * Lethargic Limbs Trad 30m


Start: 30m right of FC at slight orange overhang.

FA: S.Knight, G.Weigand & M.Law-Smith, 1983

22 ** Solidatic Trad 30m

Directissima .Frees bottom section of Solidfan and top section of 'Lunatic', 'Excellent' rock and climbing. Good pro - no ned to rebolt.

Start: Start as for Solidfan below bolt.

FFA: Zac Vertrees & Macciza, 2006



Start: 6m right of anchor 2.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965


Start: Just left of 'Chancellorsville' at bolt ladder leading left.

16 Sloth Wall DS Trad 16m

Start: 12m right of CX. Up to bolt below overhang then original.

FA: P.Jenkins & H.Ward, 1967

20 R Serving Time DS Trad 8m

Start: 13m right of KK. Below fixed crab (?).

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1980


Chickenhead and bolt, up and left.

Start: 2m right again!

FA: P.Butcher, A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978


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