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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 M2 The Vandal Aid 39m 2

Start: 4m right of the ladders. thin right facing corner.

  1. 20m (20) Rooflet and corner to ledge.

  2. 19m (20) Corner, right and up to the girder.

FFA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy

FA: (J.Ewbank & R.Reynolds), 1967

2
16 O'Sullivan's Folly Trad 20m

Actually the name given to the old road by the locals.

Start: As for TV, then wall trending left past bushes.

FA: A.Jones & S.Babka, 1989

4
21 R Juvenille Trad 13m

Start: 2m right of TV at thin black crack. Up to roof, arete to ledge (The Delinquent anchor 1). Ledges. Rap of finish as for TD.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

5
20 The Delinquent Aid 36m

Corner to roof,, left to ledge. Left, up and back to the crack and up to ledge. Over the bulge and up.

Start: 2m right of J. 3 pitches.

FA: ewbank/worrall ffa j.smoothy

6
22 Wrack and Ruin Trad 40m 3

Start: 14m right of TD. Grass shelf beneath the rooflet.

  1. 8m (22) Follow bolts to rest, left and up to small cave.

  2. 15m (19) Up to piton, traverse. Left and up to ledge. Right along ledge to stance. Up and right.

  3. 10m (12) Up.

FA: A.Penney & M.Law, 1978

7
25 R ** Wrush 'n' Rupture Trad 20m

Start: As for W&R to first bolt, then right, arete to roof and belay.

FA: M.Law & S.Butler, 1987

8
23 R * Scouts' Honour Trad 34m

To cave, over roof and right to arete. Up to flake then steep wall. Up to anchor as for 'Guico Piton' Rap here or continue up GP.

Start: 6m right of W&R below the roof. 2pitches.

FA: Bradbury, Penney, Dunn & Dowden, 1979

10
15 R * Guico Piton Trad 48m 3

A classic of early Bluey's climbing. Originally soloed!

There are a couple of variations to this climb. An aid DS! about 15m left, and a 15 varient to the 2nd pitch.

Start: 21m right of W&R.

  1. 11m (15) Up corner to break and then ledge.

  2. 14m (10) Left along the ledge, around nose and left to ledge.

  3. 23m (10) Through the overhang, right to the corner and up. There are many variations on this pitch. take care with the rock!

FA: K.Westren, 1961

11
15 Guico Piton Variant Unknown 14m
12
15 Grand Traverse Trad 210m

This is fantastic!

Start: As for GP to pitch 3, as for pitch 3 then into gully and up, down , then right to cave. Down a bit, right across the corner, bum traverse right, then up about 100 or so metres to the big ledge. Up gully.

FA: T.Batty & K.Westren, 1962

13
21 * Katchendangle Trad 51m

Start: As GP anchor 1. Then through roof (fixed wires?), crack to ledge, left around the roof, up corner. 3 pitches.

FFA: K.Carrigan & M.Law

FA: (Davis, Smith & Reynolds), 1966

14
21 Omega Trad 62m

Start: As for GP. P2).Right onad over roof as for K but traverse right to the nose instead of the crack. Overhang, right to block. 'Gully' yo the right. 4 pitches.

FA: B.Allen, J.Davis & R.Cox, 1962

15
15 R Fern Hill Trad 59m 4
  1. 11m Start as for GP.

  2. 23m Right along ledge, around nose, down and into cave.

  3. 10m Opposite left block in cave (bolt above lip) wall to ledge.

  4. 15m Overhang and dinner plates.

FA: A.Penney & P.Butcher, 1977

16
19 Desolation Row Trad 49m

Start: 25m right of GP.

1). Up corner to pro, traverse right to ledge at nose. 2).The roofs.

FA: Reynolds & Osbourne, 1967

17
21 Two Up Trad 53m

Start: 25m right of DR. 1). Up left to small cave, roof to break, right and up to ledge. 2,3). Traverse right into RM and up.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

18
16 One Up Trad 44m

Start: 3m right of TU at overhang. 1). Jump to jug, over bulge, left to ledge and right to hidden belay bolt. 2). 6m left, up to bulge, Up.

FA: B.Osbourne & A.Campbell, 1966

19
15 Rook's Move Trad 58m 3

Start 2m right of OU.

  1. 20m Corner to bolt, left and up to belay.

  2. 23m Chimney/corner to ledge.

  3. 15m Corner.

FA: T.Batty, 1962

20
16 Yddrasil Trad 49m

Start: 3m right of RM.

FA: P.Martland & A.Penney, 1977

21
23 The Serpent Trad 47m 3

Start: Left leading roofs 20m right of Y.

  1. 12m (23) Left up corners & roofs to ledge.

  2. 25m (19) Left up to below roof.

  3. 10m (17) To roof, left and over.

FA: Penney, Smoothy, Sorenson & Law, 1979

22
20 Last Year's Man Trad 22m

Start: 12m of TS at slight groove. To ledge, down right to yellow corner, up. Up to join EJ.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1980

23
16 M2 Determination Walls Aid 82m

Start: 6m right of LYM.

1). Cheat stone then right into corner (LYM)left to piton, left to ledge. 2). Right to shelf, overhang to belay. 3). Slab and wall trending right, left to belay. 4). Corner to roof, ledge to belay 5). Aid, then free to belay. 6). Left an

FA: J.Ewbank, C.Regan & A.Campbell, 1964

24
20 R The Crazy Eddy Probe Trad 12m

Start: 2m left of EJ.

FA: M.Radke & D.Maddocks, 1987

25
19 Echo Junior Trad 22m

Start: 4m right of DW. Off rock and up, left under roof to ledge.

26
22 R Hangover Cure Trad 12m

Start: 2m right of EJ.

FA: Radke, Stacey & Cooksey, 2000

27
22 Looking Vacant Trad 12m

Start: Right again.

FA: Ward & Carlos, 1988

28
18 R Butterfly Trad 82m

Start: 7m right of EJ.

1). tree onto wall and up, slight right to piton, through overhang, left to belay. 2). Rising traverse to ledge below overhangs. 3). Left to cave, left through overhang, wall to ledge. Up.

FFA: R.Vining & W.Williams

FA: (J.Ewbank & B.Allen), 1964

29
15 The Triad Trad 74m 3

Note: many of the carrots on this route wont accept standard bolt plates! Take wires.

  1. 25m As for B to first bolt, long traverse R to bolt, up, R across corner to the nose. Up to belay.

  2. 19m Overhang, up to belay on GT.

  3. 30m Up and right to ledge to belay. Exit into gully.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1977

30
10 Ventura Highway Trad 67m 6

This route may not be possible due to dead tree branches!

  1. 14m Up to tree to gain rock, up across to ledge, right to block.

  2. 28m Cave/ledge on right to belay before arete.

  3. 25m Overhang (use bush) then jugs to ledge. Exit stage right into gully.

FA: A.Penney & D.Humphries, 1977

31
M1 unknown Aid 20m

Start: Right of C at bolt ladder leading up right.

32
24 Strange Car in Town Trad 87m 5

Starts below the bolt ladder in the middle of the Psyncave.

Start: 25m right of VH.

  1. 12m (24) Can be aided at M1. Up to roof, ledge above lip. Could be a bit hard for a move, some think 27.

  2. 3m (-) Step right and into cave.

  3. 30m (-) Through overhang, up and right to scrubby ledge.

  4. 12m (-) Right 15m to corner, up this to bushy ledge.

  5. 30m (12) Up, right, off & out!

FA: A Penney & G Herbert, 1977

FFA: Mikl Law, 1986

33
14 M3 The Creature Aid 40m

1).Aid to roof,left then out to lip, onto wall, right to ledge. 2).Left, over bulges, right to blank corner, up, left at top then to scubby ledge. 'Gully' to right.

Start: Ar right end of Psyncave.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1978

34
11 M5 Panadol Aid 43m

1). Crack, left, up next crack, to ledge. 2).Aid wall on right, traverse to crack, up to ledge. 3).Traverse off or take crack.

Start: 15m right of TC.

FA: J.Pickard & D.Leak, 1968

35
16 M3 Exodus Aid 92m

Lasso bolt, aid left and up, mantle to ledge on nose, free and aid to roof. 2).Traverse right, over roof, corner, up to flake. 3).Corner to ledge. Exit left or 4).Up nose.

Start: 70m right of P. Scramble up from track.

FA: D.Fletcher & J.Brown, 1970

36
21 * Law's Effort Trad 45m

Up to piton, left onto ledge, left to end, up and left, up E to belay under roof. 2).Traverse up left, cross void, ramp and up to ledge. Rap off!

Start: Left leading flake 10m right of 'Exodus'.

FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1979

37
23 *** Leif Ericsson Sport 93m 4

Start: Start as for Laws Effort, at the like-new painted initials "LE", about 20m L of the very obvious 'Fuddy Duddy'.

  1. 20m (23) The best pitch, and the hardest. Straight up on excellent rock via sustained great moves.

  2. 20m (22) Generally follows the rightwards arcing corner/roof, but its easiest to stay out on the slab, to the right of the bolts. Good thin slab moves to finish.

  3. 25m (22) Funky moves up short corner, then traverse R 5m along break. Steeply through orange bulges. You can walk off left from here if you want to skip the last pitch.

  4. 20m (22) Fun monkeying out low roof, then easy corner. R through bulge then back L onto final thin face. It's about 10 grades easier if you climb 2m to the right of the last 2 bolts.

FA: Mikl Law

38
12 M4 Rise of the Valkyrie Aid 75m

Aid to overhang, over, up to corner then ledge. 2).Up cracks to corner end. Aid, then free to ledge.

Start: 1m right of LE.

FA: W.Williams, 1970

39
17 M5 Fletcher's Effort Aid 62m

Take care with pro and grade!

Start: As for RotV.

FA: D.Fletcher, 2000

40
17 * Fuddy Cracks Trad 30m

Crack to small ledge,up to ledge. 2).Crack to bolt, traverse to FD anchor 1.

Start: 35m right of RotV at chimney flake.

FA: B.Allen, 1962

41
Alan's Route Sport 30m

From FD anchor 1, head left and slightly up for 12m to 2 carrot belay. Follow old carrots delicately up grey face to very dirty top out (or traverse off right). According to the first ascentionist, this route could be improved with a rebolt and rap station below the top.

FA: A.Jones, 1990

42

Corner formed by left side of big block.

Start: 8m right of Fuddy Cracks.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1973

43
15 *** Fuddy Duddy Trad 95m 3

An olden day classic - historical!

Start: 20m right of FDds on smaller block down and right of the monster?

  1. 35m (13) Wall to ledge below big block, left, then up to belay on top of block.

  2. 30m (15) Big corner to block, move left and up to ledge or continue up crack.

  3. 30m (13) Bulge, then into chimney and up.

FA: R.kippax & D.Roots, 1960

44
16 R Riverstone One Trad 77m

SRC's 'RCitUBM 2nd Ed' notes that the route details are in dispute!?

Start: 18m right of FD. 'Black Wall'.

FA: J.Worrall & D.Hough, 1966

45

Up corner briefly, left around nose and up to rest, left to piton, up overhang to ledge.

Start: As for 'Riverstone One' to anchor 2.

FA: J.Worrall & D.Hough, 1966

46
15 Knight's Move Trad 120m 5

Start 40m right of RO.

  1. 33m Up, left around nose to ledge, traverse left until move past bush and big flake. Move right a long way to ledge above the start of route.

  2. 33m Traverse right, corner right to thread.

  3. 30m (crux) Traverse right along ledge, then up to 2 bolts. Poor pro.

  4. 10m Pull up to block at right end of ledge, up through trees.

  5. 15m Slab to top

Start: 40m right of RO.

FA: K.Westren & D.Pearce, 1960

47
15 * Knight's Fork Trad 120m

3m left and up the wall, right up to bush belay on ledge 4). Up to sandy ledge and spike 5). Corner to bolt, left across red slab to ledge. Traverse off left.

Start: At KM anchor 2.

FA: B.Allen & B.Ryan, 1964

48
17 M1 Skeleton Grooves Aid 130m
  1. Up corner, move left near top onto grey wall, up to KM anchor 1

  2. Corner

  3. Groove then left wall, up, left to corner, around nose on left and up to stance

  4. choss to shale ledge

  5. Traverse right on ledge

  6. Aid through roof, up and right to stance

  7. Up

Start: Scrubby corner 2m right of KM.

FA: J.Ewbank, A.Gordon & B.Allen, 1964

49
21 Nuclear Free Zone Trad 78m 3

Start a few metres right of Knight's Move (marked KM)

  1. 50m (19). Carrot and rings up arete/corner then trend right following carrots to DRB.

  2. 20m (20). Up flake and chimney (nuts, cams) to thin face moves on carrots. Shares DRB with The Inconvenient Truth.

  3. 8m (21) Left line of rings up overhanging orange rock, past an unclippable bolt, to top. DBB.

FA: J. Dodson, 2007

50
20 Nuclear Truth Trad 120m 5

Start a few metres right of Knight's Move (marked KM)

  1. 50m (19). Start as for P1 of Nuclear Free Zone. Carrot and rings up arete/corner then trend right following carrots to DRB.

  2. Traverse on wide footledge 15m right to DRB on arête to join P3 of The Inconvenient Truth.

  3. 30m (17) Up arete past carrots to DRB.

  4. 10m (18) Follow carrots up featured orange wall. DRB shared with NFZ.

  5. 15m (20) Go right through overhanging orange headwall past four rings. DBB.

FA: R. Smith & K. Muraoka, 2011

51

Up wall and arete, veer left up wall to arete then left side of arete to KK anchor 1. Rap.

Start: 40m right of SG.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1979

52
  1. 30m (18) Climb POM and set natural belay at its finish.

  2. 10m (10)Head diagonally left past piton and up to DRB - or run this and the next pitch together.

  3. 30m (17) Up arete past carrots to DRB.

  4. 10m (18) Follow carrots up featured orange wall. DRB shared with NFZ.

  5. 15m (20) Go right through overhanging orange headwall past four rings. DBB.

FA: G. Kovacs & J. Dodson., 2007

53
17 Knight's Knight Trad 42m

Thin corner then left to tree. 2). Slight left and up to KM anchor 2.

Start: 3m right of PoM.

FA: B.Allen & B.Ryan, 1964

54

Up to bush at base of corner, aid then up and left over choss to ledge, right and up wall to ledge, traverse left to belay. 2). Left, then up and left to ramp, up easy, right on traverse line (bush) corner then step left onto nose. Up to scrubby ledge. 3). Finish as for KM pitch 5.

Start: 33m right of KK. Scramble up to ledge above the track.

FA: A.Penney & G.Herbert, 1978

55
18 *** On Both Sides of the Glass Mixed 80m 3, 10

Start: 18m right of HDYGG.

  1. 35m (18) Slab to arete, up this (2 BRs) to ledge (RB belay).

  2. 10m (18) Up to traverse line (BR), dangle right (RB) onto small ledge (BBs).

  3. 35m (13) Climb up and left to arete then up hanging grey slab (BRs to RB belay).

Abseil down corner on right (facing out) with double 60m ropes. Don't attempt to abseil to the first belay ledge as you'll end up hanging in space.

FA: A.Penney & J.Nagler, 1978

56

Start: At OBSotG anchor 1. Instead of traversing right on OBSofG P2, continue straight up the hanging corner to rejoin OBSofG P3.

FA: M.Law, A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1979

58
19 * Eve of Destruction Trad 85m

Crack to corner, up to piton, left to bolt, up to piton, left and up then overhung groove to ledge 2). Wall to ledge. 3). Wall.

Start: 55m right, Orange wall below short corner.

Has a DS about 25m left.

FFA: M.Law

FA: (J.Ewbank & J.Worrall), 1967

60
Iris (Project) Sport 17m, 8

Wall, faint arete and roof.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Eve of Destruction'

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith, 2008

61
22 * Western Ring Road Sport 70m 3

A climb for the traverse connoisseur.

Start: Start as for 'Eve of Destruction'.

  1. 20m (21) Up easy start of EOD to ringbolt. Up and rightwards on small holds to rightwards traverse line under big roof. Across this for 10m to comfy ledge belay (double rings)

  2. 20m (22) Pumpy! Up and left across ironstone traverse line which gets increasingly steep until final climatic reach move at lip. Easily up wall to small ledge belay.

  3. 30m (16) Straight up black slopers and short steep arete to juggy finish. Double rings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2008

62
12 M3 The Sickle Aid 37m

Up corners and ledges, traverse right to small gully, up to roof. 2).Corner, over roof, onto ledge and up to tree. Finish up 'Pawn Wall'.

Start: 20m right at right curving crack.

FA: K.Bell & H.Bevan, 1969

63
19 The Hammer Trad 25m

Corner/chimney to roof, over and up. Finish as for PW.

Start: 13m right of TS.

FA: W.Williams & H.Bevan, 1971

64
14 First Impressions Trad 55m

Thin scrubby crack, wall to bulge, to ledge near gully. 2).Traverse to weakness in overhang and up.

Start: 20m right of TH.

FA: P.Martland & G.Herbert, 1977

65
12 Pawn Wall Trad 74m 3

Start 7m right of FI. Take care as it's poorly protected.

  1. 30m Up to ledge then left to ease in overhang, up, gully to ledge on left.

  2. 22m Right across gully and up.

  3. 22m Slab. Direct finish

FA: T.Batty & F.Kitchener, 1962

66
10 Pawn Wall Direct Finish Unknown 37m
67
15 R Vulcan's Wall Trad 59m 4

Start 8m right of PW. A poor climb on bad rock. Has variant start 5m right, up corner to roof, left under this onto wall, up and left to belay.

  1. 10m Wall to ledge belay

  2. 15m Left a few metres then up, mantle, up.

  3. 12m Choss.

  4. 22m Up.

FA: J.Ewbank & A.Gordon, 1964

69

Corner to crack then ledge. 2). Left around nose then left to VW anchor 2.

Start: 12m right of VEVS.

FA: J.Ewbank & E.Saxby, 1964

70
17 R A Sickening Crunch Trad 77m

As for BPC. 2).Up and right then horizontally right. Corner to bolt,horizontally left to ledge. 3). Move left around nose and up. Take Care!

Start: From BPC anchor 1.

FA: M.Law, G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1979

71
22 * Come Out and Play Sport 63m

FA: J Dobson

72
23 * TradaDirect Trad 55m

Climb up Sickening Crunch the way it used to be - on gear - continue upwards past bolts and belays and various byo gear to the top belay from cams at top

Start: Rap from cams in break above rings at top of 'The Infiltrator'. Start where the rope ends and finish where the rap started - pretty much straight up.

FA: Macciza, 2000

73
24 * The Infiltrator Sport 55m 2

Two pitches covering some exposed and interesting territory. All ringbolts. Rap down to base and start climbing!

Start: Starts 4m left of 'Cave Climb' at left facing corner with U-bolts.

  1. 30m (24) Up short corner, traverse left and over bulge to ledge. Up face above on tiny sideway facing holds to jugs. Wander up face for a few bolts before tricky end move to ledge.

  2. 25m (23) Two wildly differing parts. Steeply through the shale band to right leading crimpy slab. After this finger torture ends thug up the reachy and very steep face above. Belay on ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith & Karen Allen, 2008

74
13 *** Cave Climb Trad 68m 3

Another old classic.

Start: 8m right of BPC. Has a direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.

  1. 18m Up grey wall to small corner, right onto slab, traverse right to tree.

  2. 20m Cracks to cave (big pro).

  3. 30m Through the cave and hole, or corner outside.

    Replaced bolts November 2015

FA: Batty, Boyd, Westren & Smith, 1962

76
19 *** Flying Spectacles Sport 70m 2

Good route, though much of it is a retrobolt of the unlovely "A Sickening Crunch" P1 starts 4 metres right of Cave Climb near a small tree. It heads up and crosses cave climb at the first traverse cam optional in large flake.Then up and traverse left 4 metres then straight up to join a sickening crunch for a few metres till semi hanging belay.

P2 Has some great exposure with nice moves off the belay. Heads up over bulge then veer right on slab to overhang and rings. Pull through overhang and then jugs up to chain anchor. Its a 50 m rap from here to the deck.

The route can be done with no gear, bring 8 bolt plates

FA: J. Gaibor

77
16 R March Fly Trad 55m

Corner & chimney to ledge, traverse left and up to ledge. 2). Up and slight right to manky ledge. 3). Up left of roof.

Start: 58m right of of CC.

FA: D&N.Roots & H.Cotton, 1960

78
20 Nuts and Bolts Trad 20m

Yellow corner to jugs, left to fixed pro(!), across to break then left to ledge.

Start: 20m right of MF.

FA: A.Penney & M.Johnson, 1980

79
9 R Unamed Climb Trad 59m 4

Start 15m right of NaB, right side of ledge.

  1. 15m (crux) Ledge, overhang, slightly right to piton and bushy ledge, left up corner to thread.

  2. 10m Up to cave.

3 & 4) Left, around nose and up wall to spike, up to top.

FA: K.Westren & E.Field, 1961

80
9 * Unamed Variation Trad 71m 5

Start as for UNC.

  1. 12m (crux) Up to piton, right through scrub to base of corner.

  2. 19m Corner, left and up to tree below chimney.

  3. 5m Up Chimney to belay.

  4. 13m Traverse L along ledge, short corner, L to spike.

  5. 22m Wall.

FA: K.Westren & E.Field, 1961

81
10 R Herbaceous Gully Trad 37m

Starts below the chockstone in the gully. Originally soloed!

Start: 18m right of 'Un Named Climb' (Dixon's Ladders Sth).

FA: K.Westren, 1960

82

Behind tree to arete and up to grassy ledge. 2). Up and around left to ledge, arete, right wall briefly, cave and arete.

Start: 6m right of the gully.

FA: A.Penney & G.Bradbury, 1979

83
7 Castle Kings Side Trad 43m

Up to ledge. 2).Corner, or nose on right. 3). Corner or nose to bush. 4).Right wall or small corner.

Has a Ds. Wide chimney 7m right.

Start: 1m right of DoG. Chimney.

FA: R.McDonald & R.Buchanan, 1960

85
18 ** Pulse Breaker Sport 15m, 6

Up crack line to ledge. (Pitch 2 is a traversing aid bolt ladder which is best ignored)

Start: 19m right of CKS. Piton scarred crack.

FA: J.Ewbank & B.Smith, 1964

FA: Mikl Law, 2012

86
22 *** Heart Attack Mixed 20m, 1

Pitch 1 is great freeclimbing. Up past Ubolt to gain crack.

Start: 10m right of PB below yellow left leading corner.

FA: A.Pavey, 1970

FA: Hugh Ward, 2012

87
22 *** Gypsy Ritalin Sport 15m, 11

Up onto ledge then right and up arete and wall to lower off under roof.

Start: As for Heart Attack

FA: Mikl Law, 2012

88

Easily up to top of block to FH on the undercut wall to the left. Traverse left to a ring bolt then up the arete past another ring on the left (can confirm this will hold a fall...) to the crux just after you clip the final ring. From here easily up the arete to where it meets Tal, top out as for Tal. A 0.4 Camalot, and a set of nuts, as well as a couple of bolt plates are a must for the climbing after the last ring.

Don't forget you need a trad belay on top: 0.5, #3 Camalots and a few nuts will do nicely.

Start: Start at the block 6 or 8m left of Toll, at the ugly scratched X (not made by FA party).

FA: Hugh Ward, James Castrission & Luke Merrett, 2009

89
13 ** Tal Trad 94m

Another old classic.

Start: Monster corner 40m right of HA.

FA: B.Allen & T.Batty, 1962

90
16 *** Tol Trad 55m

As for T. 2). Up crack to ledge on left. 3).Corner to roof, right undr this, around lip and up crack.

Start: From Tal anchor 1.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

91
25 ** 008 Trad 45m

Start: 3m right of Tal.

FA: M.Baker & I.Hofstetter, 1990

92
25 * Toll Free Trad 45m

Wall to arete and up.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 008.

FA: M.Baker & I.Hofstetter, 1990

93

Crack and slab to tree. 2). Crack to cave. 3). Up to roof(piton?), down, across to crack, up to ledge. 4). Choss to recess, right and up. Take big pro.

Start: Corner 2m right of TF.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

94
17 M3 R The Pearls of Anger Aid 60m

Up to ledge. 2). Corner on right, crack to right, back to corner, aid then left, left to stance. 3). Corner, right, under roof, around lip to metal thingy, aid chossy crack, ledge, then left to bush. Scramble off or finish as for TBoH.

Start: 6m right again. Corner.

FA: J.Ewbank & B.Shirley, 1967

95
13 R ** En Passant Trad 96m

Up to tree and bushes. 2).Cracks to bushes. 3).Corner, death traverse right to arete, to ledge. 4). Walk right, up steep corner and wall.

Start: Cracks 5m right of TPoA.

FA: K.Westren, R.McDonald & R.Boyd, 1962

96
18 R Glory Nut Trad 51m

As for EP 1& 2. 3).Choss corner, ledge. 4).Crack to ledge. 5).Right through scrub to belay. 6).Up to thread. Off right.

Start: From RP anchor 2.

FA: B.Allen & E.Saxby, 1964

97

Climb tree to branch below corner, to rest, right to corner, up to ledge, choss corner to roof, right, up crack above roof then right to belay. 2).Up, right through scrub, to ledge, mantle to ledge, left & up to ledge. 3).As for EP.

Start: 18m right of EP.

FFA: J.Smoothy

FA: (Penney & Herbert), 1977

98
20 R The Spider Trad 96m

Up to ledge. 2).Crack on left to slot. 3).Left,slightly up to piton(!),up to shield, across left then up,veer left to small ledge,rest,Scrubby crack to wide point, step right & up to ledge. 4).Mantle to trees, to ledge. 5). As for EP. Take Care!!

Start: 25m right of the previous. Short corner.

FFA: A.Penney

FA: (Ewbank & Campbell), 1967

99
20 Saturday Night Palsy Trad 75m 4

Arete 15m right of the Spider 1. 20m(20) Wall (cams) tending left to ledge. Left and up to horizontal break (medium to large cams). Left past bolt (crux), around into corner (place gear for second) and left and up to arête HDBB. Second can unclip the bolt after passing the crux. 2. 20m(17) Up to flake (cam) then arête (bolts on right wall). Left to stance DBB. 3. 25m(17) Right to arête (bolt). Over bulge then wall tending left (bolts) to ledge. Belay on good piton and cams. 4. 10m(12) Up to big ledge under overhang. DBB on back wall. Walk off right, up gully, right to track and up to Golden Stairs carpark.

M Payens C McGown 1996

FA: M Payens C McGown, 1996

100
17 * Nicodemus Trad 72m

Up right to corner ramp. 2).Left leading corner. 3).Up. 4).Overhang,left to ledge, up to tree. Off right.

Start: 40m right again near dead tree.

FA: B.Allen & T.Batty, 1963

101
19 * Zacherius Trad 86m

Up to crack, chimney to belay. 3).Traverse left around roof, up. 4).Right, crack to tree. 5). To ledge and off right.

Start: From N anchor 1.

FA: J.Ewbank & E.Saxby, 1964

102
15 R Queen's Defence Trad 73m

An boy! does she need it.

Start: From N anchor 1.

FA: T.Batty & K.Westren, 1962

103
14 Open File Trad 77m

As for QD to piton past nose, ledge. 3).Traverse left to inset ledge below hidden corner, up, step right, up, walk off right.

Start: From N anchor 1.

FA: J&P.Leicester, T.Silvers & R.Walker, 1985

104
17 R Deception Trad 62m

Up wall - safer on the arete 3m right! - traverse to arete, up to big ledge. 2).Corner to roof, hand traverse left, mantle, up crack onto grassy ledge. 3).Corner, chimney, up to ledge, left under roof, corner.

Start: 50m right of N near fallen tree.

FA: B.Osbourne & R.Reynolds, 1967

105
15 Fool's Mate Trad 62m

As for D to arete, up slightly,traverse right to corner and tree. 2). Slab to below corner, up to ledge beneath overhang,Left, over bulge and up to tree. 3).Up, right to QD anchor 2. Up.

Start: As for D.

FA: Ryan & Fennemore, 1964

106
107
15 R Indian Opening Trad 45m

Up to tree. 2).Chimney to ledge. 3).Black wall and crack. Take Care!

Start: 150m right of FM at chimney 10m left of obvious corner/chimney.

FA: A.Gordon & G.Owens, 1964

108
8 M2 ** Parallax Aid 92m

Aid crack to bolt, right to crack, aid again then to ledge. 2&3).Wall and scrub. This may have been freed!!!

Start: 25m right of IO.

FA: W.Williams & B.Mattick, 1970

109
11 Epilogue Unknown 73m
110
9 Big Willis's Chimney Unknown 57m
111
8 Pawn Capture Trad 56m 3

Start 130m right of BWC.

  1. 12m (crux) Grovel up to ledge.

  2. 25m Up scrubby corner on right to large ledge.

  3. 19m Up slabs to top.

112
13 Bloodwood Wall Unknown 46m
114
16 Point Beyond Unknown 89m
115
9 Crud Climb Trad 300m 3

Start past waterfall at corner under overhang. Not a great route.

  1. 12m Up corner to below overhang.

  2. Scramble left then right to ledge.

  3. Walk right for 270 nearly to next waterfall, up grassy gully to top.

FA: 1962

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