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Table of contents

1. Left Side 115 routes in Cliff

Trad, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.282489, -33.733079

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Vandal

Start: 4m right of the ladders. thin right facing corner.

  1. 20m (20) Rooflet and corner to ledge.

  2. 19m (20) Corner, right and up to the girder.

FFA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy

FA: (J.Ewbank,R.Reynolds), 1967

20 M2 Aid 39m 2
2 O'Sullivan's Folly

Actually the name given to the old road by the locals.

Start: As for TV, then wall trending left past bushes.

FA: A.Jones,S.Babka, 1989

16 Trad 20m
3 O'Sullivan's Folly Variant 19 Unknown 20m
4 Juvenille

Start: 2m right of TV at thin black crack. Up to roof, arete to ledge (The Delinquent anchor 1). Ledges. Rap of finish as for TD.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1977

21 R Trad 13m
5 The Delinquent

Corner to roof,, left to ledge. Left, up and back to the crack and up to ledge. Over the bulge and up.

Start: 2m right of J. 3 pitches.

FA: ewbank/worrall ffa j.smoothy

20 Aid 36m
6 Wrack and Ruin

Start: 14m right of TD. Grass shelf beneath the rooflet.

  1. 8m (22) Follow bolts to rest, left and up to small cave.

  2. 15m (19) Up to piton, traverse. Left and up to ledge. Right along ledge to stance. Up and right.

  3. 10m (12) Up.

FA: A.Penney,M.Law, 1978

22 Trad 40m 3
7 ** Wrush 'n' Rupture

Start: As for W&R to first bolt, then right, arete to roof and belay.

FA: M.Law,S.Butler, 1987

25 R Trad 20m
8 * Scouts' Honour

To cave, over roof and right to arete. Up to flake then steep wall. Up to anchor as for 'Guico Piton' Rap here or continue up GP.

Start: 6m right of W&R below the roof. 2pitches.

FA: Bradbury,Penney,Dunn,Dowden, 1979

23 R Trad 34m
9 Guico Piton Direct Start 10 M5 Aid 25m
10 * Guico Piton

A classic of early Bluey's climbing. Originally soloed!

There are a couple of variations to this climb. An aid DS! about 15m left, and a 15 varient to the 2nd pitch.

Start: 21m right of W&R.

  1. 11m (15) Up corner to break and then ledge.

  2. 14m (10) Left along the ledge, around nose and left to ledge.

  3. 23m (10) Through the overhang, right to the corner and up. There are many variations on this pitch. take care with the rock!

FA: K.Westren, 1961

15 R Trad 48m 3
11 Guico Piton Variant 15 Unknown 14m
12 Grand Traverse

This is fantastic!

Start: As for GP to pitch 3, as for pitch 3 then into gully and up, down , then right to cave. Down a bit, right across the corner, bum traverse right, then up about 100 or so metres to the big ledge. Up gully.

FA: T.Batty,K.Westren, 1962

15 Trad 210m
13 * Katchendangle

Start: As GP anchor 1. Then through roof (fixed wires?), crack to ledge, left around the roof, up corner. 3 pitches.

FFA: K.Carrigan,M.Law

FA: (Davis,Smith,Reynolds), 1966

21 Trad 51m
14 Omega

Start: As for GP. P2).Right onad over roof as for K but traverse right to the nose instead of the crack. Overhang, right to block. 'Gully' yo the right. 4 pitches.

FA: B.Allen,J.Davis,R.Cox, 1962

21 Trad 62m
15 Fern Hill
  1. 11m Start as for GP.

  2. 23m Right along ledge, around nose, down and into cave.

  3. 10m Opposite left block in cave (bolt above lip) wall to ledge.

  4. 15m Overhang and dinner plates.

FA: A.Penney,P.Butcher, 1977

15 R Trad 59m 4
16 Desolation Row

Start: 25m right of GP.

1). Up corner to pro, traverse right to ledge at nose. 2).The roofs.

FA: Reynolds,Osbourne, 1967

19 Trad 49m
17 Two Up

Start: 25m right of DR. 1). Up left to small cave, roof to break, right and up to ledge. 2,3). Traverse right into RM and up.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

21 Trad 53m
18 One Up

Start: 3m right of TU at overhang. 1). Jump to jug, over bulge, left to ledge and right to hidden belay bolt. 2). 6m left, up to bulge, Up.

FA: B.Osbourne,A.Campbell, 1966

16 Trad 44m
19 Rook's Move

Start 2m right of OU.

  1. 20m Corner to bolt, left and up to belay.

  2. 23m Chimney/corner to ledge.

  3. 15m Corner.

FA: T.Batty, 1962

15 Trad 58m 3
20 Yddrasil

Start: 3m right of RM.

FA: P.Martland,A.Penney, 1977

16 Trad 49m
21 The Serpent

Start: Left leading roofs 20m right of Y.

  1. 12m (23) Left up corners & roofs to ledge.

  2. 25m (19) Left up to below roof.

  3. 10m (17) To roof, left and over.

FA: Penney,Smoothy,Sorenson,Law, 1979

23 Trad 47m 3
22 Last Year's Man

Start: 12m of TS at slight groove. To ledge, down right to yellow corner, up. Up to join EJ.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Penney, 1980

20 Trad 22m
23 Determination Walls

Start: 6m right of LYM.

1). Cheat stone then right into corner (LYM)left to piton, left to ledge. 2). Right to shelf, overhang to belay. 3). Slab and wall trending right, left to belay. 4). Corner to roof, ledge to belay 5). Aid, then free to belay. 6). Left an

FA: J.Ewbank,C.Regan,A.Campbell, 1964

16 M2 Aid 82m
24 The Crazy Eddy Probe

Start: 2m left of EJ.

FA: M.Radke,D.Maddocks, 1987

20 R Trad 12m
25 Echo Junior

Start: 4m right of DW. Off rock and up, left under roof to ledge.

19 Trad 22m
26 Hangover Cure

Start: 2m right of EJ.

FA: Radke,Stacey,Cooksey, 2000

22 R Trad 12m
27 Looking Vacant

Start: Right again.

FA: Ward,Carlos, 1988

22 Trad 12m
28 Butterfly

Start: 7m right of EJ.

1). tree onto wall and up, slight right to piton, through overhang, left to belay. 2). Rising traverse to ledge below overhangs. 3). Left to cave, left through overhang, wall to ledge. Up.

FFA: R.Vining,W.Williams

FA: (J.Ewbank,B.Allen), 1964

18 R Trad 82m
29 The Triad

Note: many of the carrots on this route wont accept standard bolt plates! Take wires.

  1. 25m As for B to first bolt, long traverse R to bolt, up, R across corner to the nose. Up to belay.

  2. 19m Overhang, up to belay on GT.

  3. 30m Up and right to ledge to belay. Exit into gully.

FA: A.Penney,P.Martland, 1977

15 Trad 74m 3
30 Ventura Highway

This route may not be possible due to dead tree branches!

  1. 14m Up to tree to gain rock, up across to ledge, right to block.

  2. 28m Cave/ledge on right to belay before arete.

  3. 25m Overhang (use bush) then jugs to ledge. Exit stage right into gully.

FA: A.Penney,D.Humphries, 1977

10 Trad 67m 6
31 unknown

Start: Right of C at bolt ladder leading up right.

M1 Aid 20m
32 Strange Car in Town

Starts below the bolt ladder in the middle of the Psyncave.

Start: 25m right of VH.

  1. 12m (24) Can be aided at M1. Up to roof, ledge above lip. Could be a bit hard for a move, some think 27.

  2. 3m (-) Step right and into cave.

  3. 30m (-) Through overhang, up and right to scrubby ledge.

  4. 12m (-) Right 15m to corner, up this to bushy ledge.

  5. 30m (12) Up, right, off & out!

FA: A Penney,G Herbert, 1977

FFA: @mikllaw, 1986

24 Trad 87m 5
33 The Creature

1).Aid to roof,left then out to lip, onto wall, right to ledge. 2).Left, over bulges, right to blank corner, up, left at top then to scubby ledge. 'Gully' to right.

Start: Ar right end of Psyncave.

FA: A.Penney,G.Prime, 1978

14 M3 Aid 40m
34 Panadol

1). Crack, left, up next crack, to ledge. 2).Aid wall on right, traverse to crack, up to ledge. 3).Traverse off or take crack.

Start: 15m right of TC.

FA: J.Pickard,D.Leak, 1968

11 M5 Aid 43m
35 Exodus

Lasso bolt, aid left and up, mantle to ledge on nose, free and aid to roof. 2).Traverse right, over roof, corner, up to flake. 3).Corner to ledge. Exit left or 4).Up nose.

Start: 70m right of P. Scramble up from track.

FA: D.Fletcher,J.Brown, 1970

16 M3 Aid 92m
36 * Law's Effort

Up to piton, left onto ledge, left to end, up and left, up E to belay under roof. 2).Traverse up left, cross void, ramp and up to ledge. Rap off!

Start: Left leading flake 10m right of 'Exodus'.

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1979

21 Trad 45m
37 *** Leif Ericsson

Start: Start as for Laws Effort, at the like-new painted initials "LE", about 20m L of the very obvious 'Fuddy Duddy'.

  1. 20m (23) The best pitch, and the hardest. Straight up on excellent rock via sustained great moves.

  2. 20m (22) Generally follows the rightwards arcing corner/roof, but its easiest to stay out on the slab, to the right of the bolts. Good thin slab moves to finish.

  3. 25m (22) Funky moves up short corner, then traverse R 5m along break. Steeply through orange bulges. You can walk off left from here if you want to skip the last pitch.

  4. 20m (22) Fun monkeying out low roof, then easy corner. R through bulge then back L onto final thin face. It's about 10 grades easier if you climb 2m to the right of the last 2 bolts.

FA: Mikl Law

23 Sport 93m 4
38 Rise of the Valkyrie

Aid to overhang, over, up to corner then ledge. 2).Up cracks to corner end. Aid, then free to ledge.

Start: 1m right of LE.

FA: W.Williams, 1970

12 M4 Aid 75m
39 Fletcher's Effort

Take care with pro and grade!

Start: As for RotV.

FA: D.Fletcher, 2000

17 M5 Aid 62m
40 * Fuddy Cracks

Crack to small ledge,up to ledge. 2).Crack to bolt, traverse to FD anchor 1.

Start: 35m right of RotV at chimney flake.

FA: B.Allen, 1962

17 Trad 30m
41 Alan's Route

From FD anchor 1, head left and slightly up for 12m to 2 carrot belay. Follow old carrots delicately up grey face to very dirty top out (or traverse off right). According to the first ascentionist, this route could be improved with a rebolt and rap station below the top.

FA: A.Jones, 1990

Sport 30m
42 Fuddy Duddy Direct Start

Corner formed by left side of big block.

Start: 8m right of Fuddy Cracks.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1973

14 Trad 30m
43 *** Fuddy Duddy

An olden day classic - historical!

Start: 20m right of FDds on smaller block down and right of the monster?

  1. 35m (13) Wall to ledge below big block, left, then up to belay on top of block.

  2. 30m (15) Big corner to block, move left and up to ledge or continue up crack.

  3. 30m (13) Bulge, then into chimney and up.

FA: R.kippax,D.Roots, 1960

15 Trad 95m 3
44 Riverstone One

SRC's 'RCitUBM 2nd Ed' notes that the route details are in dispute!?

Start: 18m right of FD. 'Black Wall'.

FA: J.Worrall,D.Hough, 1966

16 R Trad 77m
45 Riverstone One Variant Finish

Up corner briefly, left around nose and up to rest, left to piton, up overhang to ledge.

Start: As for 'Riverstone One' to anchor 2.

FA: J.Worrall,D.Hough, 1966

17 Trad 25m
46 * Knight's Move

Start 40m right of RO.

  1. 33m Up, left around nose to ledge, traverse left until move past bush and big flake. Move right a long way to ledge above the start of route.

  2. 33m Traverse right, corner right to thread.

  3. 30m (crux) Traverse right along ledge, then up to 2 bolts. Poor pro.

  4. 10m Pull up to block at right end of ledge, up through trees.

  5. 15m Slab to top

Start: 40m right of RO.

FA: K.Westren,D.Pearce, 1960

15 Trad 120m 5
47 * Knight's Fork

3m left and up the wall, right up to bush belay on ledge 4). Up to sandy ledge and spike 5). Corner to bolt, left across red slab to ledge. Traverse off left.

Start: At KM anchor 2.

FA: B.Allen,B.Ryan, 1964

15 Trad 120m
48 Skeleton Grooves
  1. Up corner, move left near top onto grey wall, up to KM anchor 1

  2. Corner

  3. Groove then left wall, up, left to corner, around nose on left and up to stance

  4. choss to shale ledge

  5. Traverse right on ledge

  6. Aid through roof, up and right to stance

  7. Up

Start: Scrubby corner 2m right of KM.

FA: J.Ewbank,A.Gordon,B.Allen, 1964

17 M1 Aid 130m
49 Nuclear Free Zone

Start a few metres right of Knight's Move (marked KM)

  1. 50m (19). Carrot and rings up arete/corner then trend right following carrots to DRB.

  2. 20m (20). Up flake and chimney (nuts, cams) to thin face moves on carrots. Shares DRB with The Inconvenient Truth.

  3. 8m (21) Left line of rings up overhanging orange rock, past an unclippable bolt, to top. DBB.

FA: J. Dodson, 2007

21 Trad 78m 3
50 Nuclear Truth

Start a few metres right of Knight's Move (marked KM)

  1. 50m (19). Start as for P1 of Nuclear Free Zone. Carrot and rings up arete/corner then trend right following carrots to DRB.

  2. Traverse on wide footledge 15m right to DRB on arête to join P3 of The Inconvenient Truth.

  3. 30m (17) Up arete past carrots to DRB.

  4. 10m (18) Follow carrots up featured orange wall. DRB shared with NFZ.

  5. 15m (20) Go right through overhanging orange headwall past four rings. DBB.

FA: R. Smith, K. Muraoka, 2011

20 Trad 120m 5
51 * Persistence of Memory

Up wall and arete, veer left up wall to arete then left side of arete to KK anchor 1. Rap.

Start: 40m right of SG.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1979

18 Trad 30m
52 The Inconvenient Truth
  1. 30m (18) Climb POM and set natural belay at its finish.

  2. 10m (10)Head diagonally left past piton and up to DRB - or run this and the next pitch together.

  3. 30m (17) Up arete past carrots to DRB.

  4. 10m (18) Follow carrots up featured orange wall. DRB shared with NFZ.

  5. 15m (20) Go right through overhanging orange headwall past four rings. DBB.

FA: G. Kovacs, J. Dodson., 2007

20 Trad 90m 5
53 Knight's Knight

Thin corner then left to tree. 2). Slight left and up to KM anchor 2.

Start: 3m right of PoM.

FA: B.Allen,B.Ryan, 1964

17 Trad 42m
54 How Does Your Garden Grow

Up to bush at base of corner, aid then up and left over choss to ledge, right and up wall to ledge, traverse left to belay. 2). Left, then up and left to ramp, up easy, right on traverse line (bush) corner then step left onto nose. Up to scrubby ledge. 3). Finish as for KM pitch 5.

Start: 33m right of KK. Scramble up to ledge above the track.

FA: A.Penney,G.Herbert, 1978

15 M3 R Aid 80m
55 *** On Both Sides of the Glass

Start: 18m right of HDYGG.

  1. 35m (18) Slab to arete, up this (2 BRs) to ledge (RB belay).

  2. 10m (18) Up to traverse line (BR), dangle right (RB) onto small ledge (BBs).

  3. 35m (13) Climb up and left to arete then up hanging grey slab (BRs to RB belay).

Abseil down corner on right (facing out) with double 60m ropes. Don't attempt to abseil to the first belay ledge as you'll end up hanging in space.

FA: A.Penney,J.Nagler, 1978

18 Mixed 80m 3, 10
56 *** On Both Sides of the Glass Direct

Start: At OBSotG anchor 1. Instead of traversing right on OBSofG P2, continue straight up the hanging corner to rejoin OBSofG P3.

FA: M.Law,A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1979

18 Mixed 73m 2, 10
57 Eve of Destruction Variant Start 18 M1 Aid 35m
58 * Eve of Destruction

Crack to corner, up to piton, left to bolt, up to piton, left and up then overhung groove to ledge 2). Wall to ledge. 3). Wall.

Start: 55m right, Orange wall below short corner.

Has a DS about 25m left.

FFA: M.Law

FA: (J.Ewbank,J.Worrall), 1967

19 Trad 85m
59 Eve of Destruction Variant 18 Unknown 30m
60 Iris (Project)

Wall, faint arete and roof.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Eve of Destruction'

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith, 2008

Sport 17m, 8
61 * Western Ring Road

A climb for the traverse connoisseur.

Start: Start as for 'Eve of Destruction'.

  1. 20m (21) Up easy start of EOD to ringbolt. Up and rightwards on small holds to rightwards traverse line under big roof. Across this for 10m to comfy ledge belay (double rings)

  2. 20m (22) Pumpy! Up and left across ironstone traverse line which gets increasingly steep until final climatic reach move at lip. Easily up wall to small ledge belay.

  3. 30m (16) Straight up black slopers and short steep arete to juggy finish. Double rings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2008

22 Sport 70m 3
62 The Sickle

Up corners and ledges, traverse right to small gully, up to roof. 2).Corner, over roof, onto ledge and up to tree. Finish up 'Pawn Wall'.

Start: 20m right at right curving crack.

FA: K.Bell,H.Bevan, 1969

12 M3 Aid 37m
63 The Hammer

Corner/chimney to roof, over and up. Finish as for PW.

Start: 13m right of TS.

FA: W.Williams,H.Bevan, 1971

19 Trad 25m
64 First Impressions

Thin scrubby crack, wall to bulge, to ledge near gully. 2).Traverse to weakness in overhang and up.

Start: 20m right of TH.

FA: P.Martland,G.Herbert, 1977

14 Trad 55m
65 * Pawn Wall

Start 7m right of FI. Take care as it's poorly protected.

  1. 30m Up to ledge then left to ease in overhang, up, gully to ledge on left.

  2. 22m Right across gully and up.

  3. 22m Slab. Direct finish

FA: T.Batty,F.Kitchener, 1962

12 Trad 74m 3
66 Pawn Wall Direct Finish 10 Unknown 37m
67 Vulcan's Wall

Start 8m right of PW. A poor climb on bad rock. Has variant start 5m right, up corner to roof, left under this onto wall, up and left to belay.

  1. 10m Wall to ledge belay

  2. 15m Left a few metres then up, mantle, up.

  3. 12m Choss.

  4. 22m Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,A.Gordon, 1964

15 R Trad 59m 4
68 Vulcan's Wall Variant Start 17 Unknown 12m
69 * Blood Pressure Crack

Corner to crack then ledge. 2). Left around nose then left to VW anchor 2.

Start: 12m right of VEVS.

FA: J.Ewbank,E.Saxby, 1964

17 Trad 34m
70 A Sickening Crunch

As for BPC. 2).Up and right then horizontally right. Corner to bolt,horizontally left to ledge. 3). Move left around nose and up. Take Care!

Start: From BPC anchor 1.

FA: M.Law,G.Bradbury,A.Penney, 1979

17 R Trad 77m
71 ** Come Out and Play

FA: J Dobson

22 Sport 63m
72 * TradaDirect

Climb up Sickening Crunch the way it used to be - on gear - continue upwards past bolts and belays and various byo gear to the top belay from cams at top

Start: Rap from cams in break above rings at top of 'The Infiltrator'. Start where the rope ends and finish where the rap started - pretty much straight up.

FA: Macciza, 2000

23 Trad 55m
73 * The Infiltrator

Two pitches covering some exposed and interesting territory. All ringbolts. Rap down to base and start climbing!

Start: Starts 4m left of 'Cave Climb' at left facing corner with U-bolts.

  1. 30m (24) Up short corner, traverse left and over bulge to ledge. Up face above on tiny sideway facing holds to jugs. Wander up face for a few bolts before tricky end move to ledge.

  2. 25m (23) Two wildly differing parts. Steeply through the shale band to right leading crimpy slab. After this finger torture ends thug up the reachy and very steep face above. Belay on ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith & Karen Allen, 2008

24 Sport 55m 2
74 *** Cave Climb

Another old classic.

Start: 8m right of BPC. Has a direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.

  1. 18m Up grey wall to small corner, right onto slab, traverse right to tree.

  2. 20m Cracks to cave (big pro).

  3. 30m Through the cave and hole, or corner outside.

    Replaced bolts November 2015

FA: Batty,Boyd,Westren,Smith, 1962

13 Trad 68m 3
75 Cave Climb Direct Start 14 Trad 13m
76 *** Flying Spectacles

Good route, though much of it is a retrobolt of the unlovely "A Sickening Crunch" P1 starts 4 metres right of Cave Climb near a small tree. It heads up and crosses cave climb at the first traverse cam optional in large flake.Then up and traverse left 4 metres then straight up to join a sickening crunch for a few metres till semi hanging belay.

P2 Has some great exposure with nice moves off the belay. Heads up over bulge then veer right on slab to overhang and rings. Pull through overhang and then jugs up to chain anchor. Its a 50 m rap from here to the deck.

The route can be done with no gear, bring 8 bolt plates

FA: J. Gaibor

19 Sport 70m 2
77 March Fly

Corner & chimney to ledge, traverse left and up to ledge. 2). Up and slight right to manky ledge. 3). Up left of roof.

Start: 58m right of of CC.

FA: D&N.Roots,H.Cotton, 1960

16 R Trad 55m
78 Nuts and Bolts

Yellow corner to jugs, left to fixed pro(!), across to break then left to ledge.

Start: 20m right of MF.

FA: A.Penney,M.Johnson, 1980

20 Trad 20m
79 Unamed Climb

Start 15m right of NaB, right side of ledge.

  1. 15m (crux) Ledge, overhang, slightly right to piton and bushy ledge, left up corner to thread.

  2. 10m Up to cave.

3 & 4) Left, around nose and up wall to spike, up to top.

FA: K.Westren,E.Field, 1961

9 R Trad 59m 4
80 * Unamed Variation

Start as for UNC.

  1. 12m (crux) Up to piton, right through scrub to base of corner.

  2. 19m Corner, left and up to tree below chimney.

  3. 5m Up Chimney to belay.

  4. 13m Traverse L along ledge, short corner, L to spike.

  5. 22m Wall.

FA: K.Westren,E.Field, 1961

9 Trad 71m 5
81 Herbaceous Gully

Starts below the chockstone in the gully. Originally soloed!

Start: 18m right of 'Un Named Climb' (Dixon's Ladders Sth).

FA: K.Westren, 1960

10 R Trad 37m
82 * Delusions of Grandeur

Behind tree to arete and up to grassy ledge. 2). Up and around left to ledge, arete, right wall briefly, cave and arete.

Start: 6m right of the gully.

FA: A.Penney,G.Bradbury, 1979

23 Trad 50m
83 Castle Kings Side

Up to ledge. 2).Corner, or nose on right. 3). Corner or nose to bush. 4).Right wall or small corner.

Has a Ds. Wide chimney 7m right.

Start: 1m right of DoG. Chimney.

FA: R.McDonald,R.Buchanan, 1960

7 Trad 43m
84 Castle Kings Side Direct Start 12 Unknown 6m
85 ** Pulse Breaker

Up crack line to ledge. (Pitch 2 is a traversing aid bolt ladder which is best ignored)

Start: 19m right of CKS. Piton scarred crack.

FA: J.Ewbank,B.Smith, 1964

FA: @mikllaw, 2012

18 Sport 15m, 6
86 *** Heart Attack

Pitch 1 is great freeclimbing. Up past Ubolt to gain crack.

Start: 10m right of PB below yellow left leading corner.

FA: A.Pavey, 1970

FA: Hugh Ward, 2012

22 Mixed 20m, 1
87 *** Gypsy Ritalin

Up onto ledge then right and up arete and wall to lower off under roof.

Start: As for Heart Attack

FA: @mikllaw, 2012

22 Sport 15m, 11
88 Life After Big Glassy

Easily up to top of block to FH on the undercut wall to the left. Traverse left to a ring bolt then up the arete past another ring on the left (can confirm this will hold a fall...) to the crux just after you clip the final ring. From here easily up the arete to where it meets Tal, top out as for Tal. A 0.4 Camalot, and a set of nuts, as well as a couple of bolt plates are a must for the climbing after the last ring.

Don't forget you need a trad belay on top: 0.5, #3 Camalots and a few nuts will do nicely.

Start: Start at the block 6 or 8m left of Toll, at the ugly scratched X (not made by FA party).

FA: Hugh Ward, James Castrission, Luke Merrett, 2009

20 Trad 50m
89 ** Tal

Another old classic.

Start: Monster corner 40m right of HA.

FA: B.Allen,T.Batty, 1962

13 Trad 94m
90 *** Tol

As for T. 2). Up crack to ledge on left. 3).Corner to roof, right undr this, around lip and up crack.

Start: From Tal anchor 1.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

16 Trad 55m
91 ** 008

Start: 3m right of Tal.

FA: M.Baker,I.Hofstetter, 1990

25 Trad 45m
92 * Toll Free

Wall to arete and up.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 008.

FA: M.Baker,I.Hofstetter, 1990

25 Trad 45m
93 The Bells of Hatred

Crack and slab to tree. 2). Crack to cave. 3). Up to roof(piton?), down, across to crack, up to ledge. 4). Choss to recess, right and up. Take big pro.

Start: Corner 2m right of TF.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

17 Trad 85m
94 The Pearls of Anger

Up to ledge. 2). Corner on right, crack to right, back to corner, aid then left, left to stance. 3). Corner, right, under roof, around lip to metal thingy, aid chossy crack, ledge, then left to bush. Scramble off or finish as for TBoH.

Start: 6m right again. Corner.

FA: J.Ewbank,B.Shirley, 1967

17 M3 R Aid 60m
95 ** En Passant

Up to tree and bushes. 2).Cracks to bushes. 3).Corner, death traverse right to arete, to ledge. 4). Walk right, up steep corner and wall.

Start: Cracks 5m right of TPoA.

FA: K.Westren,R.McDonald,R.Boyd, 1962

13 R Trad 96m
96 Glory Nut

As for EP 1& 2. 3).Choss corner, ledge. 4).Crack to ledge. 5).Right through scrub to belay. 6).Up to thread. Off right.

Start: From RP anchor 2.

FA: B.Allen,E.Saxby, 1964

18 R Trad 51m
97 The Fall of the House of Usher

Climb tree to branch below corner, to rest, right to corner, up to ledge, choss corner to roof, right, up crack above roof then right to belay. 2).Up, right through scrub, to ledge, mantle to ledge, left & up to ledge. 3).As for EP.

Start: 18m right of EP.

FFA: J.Smoothy

FA: (Penney,Herbert), 1977

19 Trad 90m
98 The Spider

Up to ledge. 2).Crack on left to slot. 3).Left,slightly up to piton(!),up to shield, across left then up,veer left to small ledge,rest,Scrubby crack to wide point, step right & up to ledge. 4).Mantle to trees, to ledge. 5). As for EP. Take Care!!

Start: 25m right of the previous. Short corner.

FFA: A.Penney

FA: (Ewbank,Campbell), 1967

20 R Trad 96m
99 Saturday Night Palsy

Arete 15m right of the Spider 1. 20m(20) Wall (cams) tending left to ledge. Left and up to horizontal break (medium to large cams). Left past bolt (crux), around into corner (place gear for second) and left and up to arête HDBB. Second can unclip the bolt after passing the crux. 2. 20m(17) Up to flake (cam) then arête (bolts on right wall). Left to stance DBB. 3. 25m(17) Right to arête (bolt). Over bulge then wall tending left (bolts) to ledge. Belay on good piton and cams. 4. 10m(12) Up to big ledge under overhang. DBB on back wall. Walk off right, up gully, right to track and up to Golden Stairs carpark.

M Payens C McGown 1996

FA: M Payens C McGown, 1996

20 Trad 75m 4
100 * Nicodemus

Up right to corner ramp. 2).Left leading corner. 3).Up. 4).Overhang,left to ledge, up to tree. Off right.

Start: 40m right again near dead tree.

FA: B.Allen,T.Batty, 1963

17 Trad 72m
101 * Zacherius

Up to crack, chimney to belay. 3).Traverse left around roof, up. 4).Right, crack to tree. 5). To ledge and off right.

Start: From N anchor 1.

FA: J.Ewbank,E.Saxby, 1964

19 Trad 86m
102 Queen's Defence

An boy! does she need it.

Start: From N anchor 1.

FA: T.Batty,K.Westren, 1962

15 R Trad 73m
103 Open File

As for QD to piton past nose, ledge. 3).Traverse left to inset ledge below hidden corner, up, step right, up, walk off right.

Start: From N anchor 1.

FA: J&P.Leicester,T.Silvers,R.Walker, 1985

14 Trad 77m
104 Deception

Up wall - safer on the arete 3m right! - traverse to arete, up to big ledge. 2).Corner to roof, hand traverse left, mantle, up crack onto grassy ledge. 3).Corner, chimney, up to ledge, left under roof, corner.

Start: 50m right of N near fallen tree.

FA: B.Osbourne,R.Reynolds, 1967

17 R Trad 62m
105 Fool's Mate

As for D to arete, up slightly,traverse right to corner and tree. 2). Slab to below corner, up to ledge beneath overhang,Left, over bulge and up to tree. 3).Up, right to QD anchor 2. Up.

Start: As for D.

FA: Ryan,Fennemore, 1964

15 Trad 62m
106 Fool's Mate Direct Start 19 Unknown 62m
107 Indian Opening

Up to tree. 2).Chimney to ledge. 3).Black wall and crack. Take Care!

Start: 150m right of FM at chimney 10m left of obvious corner/chimney.

FA: A.Gordon,G.Owens, 1964

15 R Trad 45m
108 ** Parallax

Aid crack to bolt, right to crack, aid again then to ledge. 2&3).Wall and scrub. This may have been freed!!!

Start: 25m right of IO.

FA: W.Williams,B.Mattick, 1970

8 M2 Aid 92m
109 Epilogue 11 Unknown 73m
110 Big Willis's Chimney 9 Unknown 57m
111 Pawn Capture

Start 130m right of BWC.

  1. 12m (crux) Grovel up to ledge.

  2. 25m Up scrubby corner on right to large ledge.

  3. 19m Up slabs to top.

8 Trad 56m 3
112 Bloodwood Wall 13 Unknown 46m
113 Deep In Thought? No Dandruff? M4 Aid 42m
114 Point Beyond 16 Unknown 89m
115 Crud Climb

Start past waterfall at corner under overhang. Not a great route.

  1. 12m Up corner to below overhang.

  2. Scramble left then right to ledge.

  3. Walk right for 270 nearly to next waterfall, up grassy gully to top.

FA: 1962

9 Trad 300m 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 Castle Kings Side Trad 43m
8 Pawn Capture Trad 56m 3
8 M2 ** Parallax Aid 92m
9 Big Willis's Chimney Unknown 57m
Crud Climb Trad 300m 3
* Unamed Variation Trad 71m 5
9 R Unamed Climb Trad 59m 4
10 Pawn Wall Direct Finish Unknown 37m
Ventura Highway Trad 67m 6
10 M5 Guico Piton Direct Start Aid 25m
10 R Herbaceous Gully Trad 37m
11 Epilogue Unknown 73m
11 M5 Panadol Aid 43m
12 Castle Kings Side Direct Start Unknown 6m
* Pawn Wall Trad 74m 3
12 M3 The Sickle Aid 37m
12 M4 Rise of the Valkyrie Aid 75m
13 Bloodwood Wall Unknown 46m
*** Cave Climb Trad 68m 3
** Tal Trad 94m
13 R ** En Passant Trad 96m
14 Cave Climb Direct Start Trad 13m
First Impressions Trad 55m
Fuddy Duddy Direct Start Trad 30m
Open File Trad 77m
14 M3 The Creature Aid 40m
15 Fool's Mate Trad 62m
*** Fuddy Duddy Trad 95m 3
Grand Traverse Trad 210m
Guico Piton Variant Unknown 14m
* Knight's Fork Trad 120m
* Knight's Move Trad 120m 5
Rook's Move Trad 58m 3
The Triad Trad 74m 3
15 M3 R How Does Your Garden Grow Aid 80m
15 R Fern Hill Trad 59m 4
* Guico Piton Trad 48m 3
Indian Opening Trad 45m
Queen's Defence Trad 73m
Vulcan's Wall Trad 59m 4
16 O'Sullivan's Folly Trad 20m
One Up Trad 44m
Point Beyond Unknown 89m
*** Tol Trad 55m
Yddrasil Trad 49m
16 M2 Determination Walls Aid 82m
16 M3 Exodus Aid 92m
16 R March Fly Trad 55m
Riverstone One Trad 77m
17 * Blood Pressure Crack Trad 34m
* Fuddy Cracks Trad 30m
Knight's Knight Trad 42m
* Nicodemus Trad 72m
Riverstone One Variant Finish Trad 25m
The Bells of Hatred Trad 85m
Vulcan's Wall Variant Start Unknown 12m
17 M1 Skeleton Grooves Aid 130m
17 M3 R The Pearls of Anger Aid 60m
17 M5 Fletcher's Effort Aid 62m
17 R A Sickening Crunch Trad 77m
Deception Trad 62m
18 Eve of Destruction Variant Unknown 30m
*** On Both Sides of the Glass Mixed 80m 3, 10
*** On Both Sides of the Glass Direct Mixed 73m 2, 10
* Persistence of Memory Trad 30m
** Pulse Breaker Sport 15m, 6
18 M1 Eve of Destruction Variant Start Aid 35m
18 R Butterfly Trad 82m
Glory Nut Trad 51m
19 Desolation Row Trad 49m
Echo Junior Trad 22m
* Eve of Destruction Trad 85m
*** Flying Spectacles Sport 70m 2
Fool's Mate Direct Start Unknown 62m
O'Sullivan's Folly Variant Unknown 20m
The Fall of the House of Usher Trad 90m
The Hammer Trad 25m
* Zacherius Trad 86m
20 Last Year's Man Trad 22m
Life After Big Glassy Trad 50m
Nuclear Truth Trad 120m 5
Nuts and Bolts Trad 20m
Saturday Night Palsy Trad 75m 4
The Delinquent Aid 36m
The Inconvenient Truth Trad 90m 5
20 M2 The Vandal Aid 39m 2
20 R The Crazy Eddy Probe Trad 12m
The Spider Trad 96m
21 * Katchendangle Trad 51m
* Law's Effort Trad 45m
Nuclear Free Zone Trad 78m 3
Omega Trad 62m
Two Up Trad 53m
21 R Juvenille Trad 13m
22 ** Come Out and Play Sport 63m
*** Gypsy Ritalin Sport 15m, 11
*** Heart Attack Mixed 20m, 1
Looking Vacant Trad 12m
* Western Ring Road Sport 70m 3
Wrack and Ruin Trad 40m 3
22 R Hangover Cure Trad 12m
23 * Delusions of Grandeur Trad 50m
*** Leif Ericsson Sport 93m 4
The Serpent Trad 47m 3
* TradaDirect Trad 55m
23 R * Scouts' Honour Trad 34m
24 Strange Car in Town Trad 87m 5
* The Infiltrator Sport 55m 2
25 ** 008 Trad 45m
* Toll Free Trad 45m
25 R ** Wrush 'n' Rupture Trad 20m
? Alan's Route Sport 30m
Iris (Project) Sport 17m, 8
M1 unknown Aid 20m
M4 Deep In Thought? No Dandruff? Aid 42m