Showing all 82 nodes.
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Southern Crag
The area between Dixon's Ladders and Herbaceous Gully. Home to classics like Fuddy Duddy, Cave Climb and On Both Sides of the Glass. |
20 M2
The Vandal
Start: 4m right of the ladders. thin right facing corner.
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16
O'Sullivan's Folly
Actually the name given to the old road by the locals. Start: As for TV, then wall trending left past bushes. |
19
O'Sullivan's Folly Variant
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
21 R
Juvenille
Start: 2m right of TV at thin black crack. Up to roof, arete to ledge (The Delinquent anchor 1). Ledges. Rap of finish as for TD. |
20
The Delinquent
Corner to roof,, left to ledge. Left, up and back to the crack and up to ledge. Over the bulge and up. Start: 2m right of J. 3 pitches. |
22
Wrack and Ruin
Start: 14m right of TD. Grass shelf beneath the rooflet.
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25 R
★★ Wrush 'n' Rupture
Start: As for W&R to first bolt, then right, arete to roof and belay. |
23 R
Scouts' Honour
To cave, over roof and right to arete. Up to flake then steep wall. Up to anchor as for 'Guico Piton' Rap here or continue up GP. Start: 6m right of W&R below the roof. 2pitches. |
10 M5
Guico Piton Direct Start
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
15 R
★ Guico Piton
A classic of early Bluey's climbing. Originally soloed! There are a couple of variations to this climb. An aid DS! about 15m left, and a 15 varient to the 2nd pitch. Start: 21m right of W&R.
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15
Guico Piton Variant
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
15
★★ Grand Traverse
This is fantastic! Start: As for GP to pitch 3, as for pitch 3 then into gully and up, down , then right to cave. Down a bit, right across the corner, bum traverse right, then up about 100 or so metres to the big ledge. Up gully. |
21
★ Katchendangle
Start: As GP anchor 1. Then through roof (fixed wires?), crack to ledge, left around the roof, up corner. 3 pitches. |
21
Omega
Start: As for GP. P2).Right onad over roof as for K but traverse right to the nose instead of the crack. Overhang, right to block. 'Gully' yo the right. 4 pitches. |
15 R
Fern Hill
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19
Desolation Row
Start: 25m right of GP. 1). Up corner to pro, traverse right to ledge at nose. 2).The roofs. |
21
Two Up
Start: 25m right of DR. 1). Up left to small cave, roof to break, right and up to ledge. 2,3). Traverse right into RM and up. |
16
One Up
Start: 3m right of TU at overhang. 1). Jump to jug, over bulge, left to ledge and right to hidden belay bolt. 2). 6m left, up to bulge, Up. |
15
★ Rook's Move
Start 2m right of OU.
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16
Yddrasil
Start: 3m right of RM. |
23
The Serpent
Start: Left leading roofs 20m right of Y.
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20
Last Year's Man
Start: 12m of TS at slight groove. To ledge, down right to yellow corner, up. Up to join EJ. |
16 M2
Determination Walls
Start: 6m right of LYM. 1). Cheat stone then right into corner (LYM)left to piton, left to ledge. 2). Right to shelf, overhang to belay. 3). Slab and wall trending right, left to belay. 4). Corner to roof, ledge to belay 5). Aid, then free to belay. 6). Left an |
20 R
The Crazy Eddy Probe
Start: 2m left of EJ. |
19
Echo Junior
Start: 4m right of DW. Off rock and up, left under roof to ledge. |
22 R
Hangover Cure
Start: 2m right of EJ. |
22
Looking Vacant
Start: Right again. |
18 R
Butterfly
Start: 7m right of EJ. 1). tree onto wall and up, slight right to piton, through overhang, left to belay. 2). Rising traverse to ledge below overhangs. 3). Left to cave, left through overhang, wall to ledge. Up. |
15
★ The Triad
Note: many of the carrots on this route wont accept standard bolt plates! Take wires.
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10
Ventura Highway
This route may not be possible due to dead tree branches!
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M1
★★ unknown
Start: Right of C at bolt ladder leading up right. |
24
★★ Strange Car in Town
Starts below the bolt ladder in the middle of the Psyncave. Start: 25m right of VH.
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14 M3
The Creature
1).Aid to roof,left then out to lip, onto wall, right to ledge. 2).Left, over bulges, right to blank corner, up, left at top then to scubby ledge. 'Gully' to right. Start: Ar right end of Psyncave. |
11 M5
Panadol
1). Crack, left, up next crack, to ledge. 2).Aid wall on right, traverse to crack, up to ledge. 3).Traverse off or take crack. Start: 15m right of TC. |
16 M3
Exodus
Lasso bolt, aid left and up, mantle to ledge on nose, free and aid to roof. 2).Traverse right, over roof, corner, up to flake. 3).Corner to ledge. Exit left or 4).Up nose. Start: 70m right of P. Scramble up from track. |
21
★ Law's Effort
Up to piton, left onto ledge, left to end, up and left, up E to belay under roof. 2).Traverse up left, cross void, ramp and up to ledge. Rap off! Start: Left leading flake 10m right of 'Exodus'. |
23
★★★ Leif Ericsson
Start: Start as for Laws Effort, at the like-new painted initials "LE", about 20m L of the very obvious 'Fuddy Duddy'.
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12 M4
Rise of the Valkyrie
Aid to overhang, over, up to corner then ledge. 2).Up cracks to corner end. Aid, then free to ledge. Start: 1m right of LE. |
17 M5
Fletcher's Effort
Take care with pro and grade! Start: As for RotV. |
17
★ Fuddy Cracks
Start: 35m right of RotV at chimney flake |
20
Alan's Route
From FD anchor 1, head left and slightly up for 12m to 2 carrot belay. Follow old carrots delicately up grey face to very dirty top out (or traverse off right). According to the first ascentionist, this route could be improved with a rebolt and rap station below the top. |
14
★ Fuddy Duddy Direct Start
Corner formed by left side of big block. Start: 8m right of Fuddy Cracks. |
15
★★★ Fuddy Duddy
An olden day classic - historical! Start: 20m right of FDds on smaller block down and right of the monster?
Interesting historical note: the monster block that forms the first pitch used to be closer to the wall and higher up, but sometime in the 1970s it slid a couple of metres during a torrential rain storm. Many guidebook descriptions haven't been updated since the FA, causing confusion for many repeat ascentionists. |
16 R
Riverstone One
SRC's 'RCitUBM 2nd Ed' notes that the route details are in dispute!? Start: 18m right of FD. 'Black Wall'. |
17
Riverstone One Variant Finish
Up corner briefly, left around nose and up to rest, left to piton, up overhang to ledge. Start: As for 'Riverstone One' to anchor 2. |
15
Knight's Move
Start 40m right of RO.
Start: 40m right of RO. |
15
★ Knight's Fork
3m left and up the wall, right up to bush belay on ledge 4). Up to sandy ledge and spike 5). Corner to bolt, left across red slab to ledge. Traverse off left. Start: At KM anchor 2. |
17 M1
Skeleton Grooves
Start: Scrubby corner 2m right of KM. |
21
Nuclear Free Zone
Start a few metres right of Knight's Move (marked KM)
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20
★ Nuclear Truth
Start a few metres right of Knight's Move (marked KM)
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18
★★ Persistence of Memory
Up wall and arete, veer left up wall to arete then left side of arete to KK anchor 1. Rap. Start: 40m right of SG. |
20
★ The Inconvenient Truth
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17
Knight's Knight
Thin corner then left to tree. 2). Slight left and up to KM anchor 2. Start: 3m right of PoM. |
15 M3 R
How Does Your Garden Grow
Up to bush at base of corner, aid then up and left over choss to ledge, right and up wall to ledge, traverse left to belay. 2). Left, then up and left to ramp, up easy, right on traverse line (bush) corner then step left onto nose. Up to scrubby ledge. 3). Finish as for KM pitch 5. Start: 33m right of KK. Scramble up to ledge above the track. |
18
★★★ On Both Sides of the Glass
Awesome first pitch, best to continue up the direct finish Start: 18m right of HDYGG. 3 excellent and varied pitches on generally great rock. This is amongst the best longer routes at the grade in the Blueys.
Walk off right (faint trail), or abseil down corner on right (facing out) with double 60m ropes. Don't attempt to abseil to the first belay ledge as you'll end up hanging in space. Rebolted in 2001 with stainless steel glue-ins. |
18
★★★ On Both Sides of the Glass Direct
The classic way to do the arete (Mikl says: better than the original, but this is disputed by others).
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18 M1
Eve of Destruction Variant Start
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
19
★ Eve of Destruction
Crack to corner, up to piton, left to bolt, up to piton, left and up then overhung groove to ledge 2). Wall to ledge. 3). Wall. Start: 55m right, Orange wall below short corner. Has a DS about 25m left. |
18
Eve of Destruction Variant
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Iris (Project)
Wall, faint arete and roof. Start: Starts 5m right of 'Eve of Destruction' |
22
Western Ring Road
A climb for the traverse connoisseur. Start: Start as for 'Eve of Destruction'.
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12 M3
The Sickle
Up corners and ledges, traverse right to small gully, up to roof. 2).Corner, over roof, onto ledge and up to tree. Finish up 'Pawn Wall'. Start: 20m right at right curving crack. |
19
The Hammer
Corner/chimney to roof, over and up. Finish as for PW. Start: 13m right of TS. |
14
First Impressions
Thin scrubby crack, wall to bulge, to ledge near gully. 2).Traverse to weakness in overhang and up. Start: 20m right of TH. |
12
Pawn Wall
Start 7m right of FI. Take care as it's poorly protected.
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10
Pawn Wall Direct Finish
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
15 R
Vulcan's Wall
Start 8m right of PW. A poor climb on bad rock. Has variant start 5m right, up corner to roof, left under this onto wall, up and left to belay.
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17
Vulcan's Wall Variant Start
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
17
★★ Blood Pressure Crack
Corner to crack then ledge. 2). Left around nose then left to VW anchor 2. Start: 12m right of VEVS. |
17 R
A Sickening Crunch
As for BPC. 2).Up and right then horizontally right. Corner to bolt,horizontally left to ledge. 3). Move left around nose and up. Take Care! Start: From BPC anchor 1. |
22
★ Come Out and Play
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
23
TradaDirect
Climb up Sickening Crunch the way it used to be - on gear - continue upwards past bolts and belays and various byo gear to the top belay from cams at top Start: Rap from cams in break above rings at top of 'The Infiltrator'. Start where the rope ends and finish where the rap started - pretty much straight up. |
24
★★ The Infiltrator
Two good pitches covering some exposed and interesting territory. All ringbolts. Rap down to base via Cave Climb and start climbing! Starts 4m left of 'Cave Climb' at left facing corner with U-bolts.
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13
★★★ Cave Climb
Another old classic. Bring 4-5 bolt plates for the beginning of climb. The rest is trad pro. Abseil access from top chains is approx 50m to ground. Tie a stopper knot. Start: 8m right of BPC. Has an alternate direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.
Climb can be done in 2 pitches if you begin at direct start. (No traverse, just follow straight up the crack to cave). Replaced bolts November 2015 |
14
★★ Cave Climb Direct Start
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
15
Wait, I Thought You Had The Rack
Follow the line of your rap rope back to the anchors. Stay on the right face and dodge the cave for some reasonably nice moves. |
19
★★ Flying Spectacles
Good route, though much of it is a retrobolt of the unlovely A Sickening Crunch. The climb starts between CC and CCDS (not marked; look for a carrot). P1 heads up and crosses Cave Climb at the first traverse - optional cam in large flake. Then up and traverse left 4 metres then straight up to join A Sickening Crunch for a few metres till semi hanging belay. Bring some long slings, or double ropes to reduce rope drag around the middle of this pitch. P2 Has some great exposure with nice moves off the belay. Heads up over bulge then veer right on slab and carrots to overhang and ring bolts. Pull through overhang (don't veer off right to CC !) and then jugs up to the CC chain anchor. Its a 50 m rap from here to the deck. The route can be done with no gear. P1 requires 7 bolt plates, P2 requires 5 bolt plates. |
16 R
March Fly
Corner & chimney to ledge, traverse left and up to ledge. 2). Up and slight right to manky ledge. 3). Up left of roof. Start: 58m right of of CC. |
20
Nuts and Bolts
Yellow corner to jugs, left to fixed pro(!), across to break then left to ledge. Start: 20m right of MF. |
9 R
Unamed Climb
Start 15m right of NaB, right side of ledge.
3 & 4) Left, around nose and up wall to spike, up to top. |
9
★ Unamed Variation
Start as for UNC.
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